DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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Get the boots right first.
I think you really need to decide what binders you will be using which may limit your boot choice.
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Excellent article here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/ski-board/ski-intro
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I find the abundance of Northeast Couloirs in the Stuart Range to be confusing (Dragontail, Colchuck, Argonaut, and Sherpa all have routes of that name).
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Thanks for clearing that up, I had the same questions as Jason. I believe the Beckey guide names the couloirs the Northeast Couloir and the North Buttress Couloir, but folks began referring to the Northeast Couloir as the Northeast Buttress Couloir in some trip reports. Can anyone confirm this, I don't have my Beckey guides at the moment.
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That last black and white buildering photo is awesome.
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Maybe this is a stupid idea, but have you thought about getting some shorter skis on Craigslist? 191 is really long for an approach setup.
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Calgary is apparently the boom town of North America.
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Would 13,600 ft on Liberty Ridge be the bergshrund that sometimes forms?
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A friend descending from Muir in a whiteout ended up on the Nisqually for a couple of days. When the weather cleared and she was able to hike out, she stumbled over the body of a snowboarder who had gone missing while descending from Muir in a whiteout a couple of years before.
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What kurt said. REI downtown, Feathered Friends, Marmot, Pro Mountain Sports are all worth a look.
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You may want to call the ranger station before to find out the status of the roads. Might still be snowed in by your trip. I think the north side of Adams is a shorter drive from Sea-Tac compared to PDX.
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The goats are getting more agressive. Someone needs to put the smack down on the biggest one to send a message to the others.
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I think that is the last part of the ledges with the chute visible between the seracs on the left and the rocks on the right.
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Nice pictoral. Good to know where your body would end up should you fall off.
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Regarding the exposure, I think it is safe to say that a fall from almost anywhere along the ledges would ruin your climb.
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Get up early and get through the ledges as efficiently as possible.
A rope and protection will slow you down. If you and your partner are not comfortable soloing the ledges, you may want to reconsider. The ledges while not technically difficult are somewhat exposed.
Once past the chute, there is a nice little rock rib to stop and rope up on. I recommend putting on a rope here, if not for the chute as well. There are monster crevasses between here and the crater.
Descend a different route to avoid crossing under Gib Rock in the heat of the day.
I don't think avy gear is really necessary. If you get avalanched off of the route I wouldn't expect to live. But if you don't mind carrying the weight you can never be too safe, right?
Stay at Camp Muir. It will be the most comfortable and allows for a straight forward descent via the DC or Ingraham Direct.
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Maybe you have air in a bursa sac that is swelling at altitude just enough to impinge upon a nerve.
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I've been known to deuce out on route, aka factor 2.
One more reason for belayers to fear the dreaded 'factor 2 onto the belay'.
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Actually things are looking up. I went for a run with my wife this morning, just will be a bit more time before I am climbing.
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The approach to LTW would kick my ass at this point.
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We roped up because we thought we saw a crevasse or two.
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I am selling my gear storage box (AKA tool box) from my full sized pickup truck. I can can fit two 50 liter packs and my approach skis (163 cm) or my carpentry tools in it. It is solidly built and I never worried about leaving gear or valuables in the box.
Here are the specs:
Better Built aluminum diamond plate tool box for full size pick up truck. Used in good working condition. Seals are in excellent shape and there is no water leakage. Locks are made of steel. Comes with two keys.
Dimensions are: 70"L x 20 3/4" W x 14 1/2" D
Here are photos: http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/tls/2416595573.html
Please E-mail bighurtbob@hotmail.com
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On the other hand, my father in law went to RPI and was one of the most influential civil engineers in the country.
Randonee setup
in Newbies
Posted
When I switched to Dynafit binders three or four years ago there were fewer manufacturers makling Dynafit compatible boots than Fritchi compatible boots. Perhaps that has changed?