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DPS

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    NW Noob

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    I suggest a different route for a number of reasons.

     

    -In early June the weather is not super stable and periods of high pressure can be fleeting. The question becomes do you want to spend good weather windows approaching or climbing. Doing something like Fuhrer Finger or Kautz Glacier offers a short approach and interesting climbing. I suspect that if you climb Rainier by any route you won't be disappointed. You specificallyt said you don't like "snow hiking". Well, doing Ptarmigan in June will entail three days of snow hiking for 2,500 feet of "climbing".

     

    -There are routes in the Cascades that do not sound terribly difficult by the ratings, e.g. NE Buttress of Johanesberg, Torment-Forbidden Traverse, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier, but are in reality complex, committing routes. I'm not saying you aren't capable of climbing these routes, just that if this is your first time to the range, it makes a sense to do routes with a lot of bang for your buck.

     

    -I also have a standard disclaimer for visiting climbers: Make alternate plans should the weather on Rainier be inclement. Yes, I know you came out here specifically to do the big R, but Rainier can be getting nuked while other areas in the range have decent weather, especially on the east side of the crest. Mt Stuart, Dragontail, Colchuck Peak, and Washington Pass can all have better weather than Rainier.

     

     

    NW Noob

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Is it too early in the year for this route?

    No.

    Is it going to be a snow slog approach? (High snow year, this year I am guessing)

    In early June, yes, it will be a snow slog approach.

     

    Will the route even be in shape yet(all snow, no ice)?

    Are we stupid for even thinking of climbing this route in June?

    The route will be in shape. Can't say how much of the route will be snow verus ice, but I would be prepared for a lot of ice climbing. I think as long as the weather is decent, June is a good month to attempt it. One thing concerns me though, you mentioned you are a NW noob and are from Colorado. If your climbing experience is limited to Colorado, I would suggest you attempt a different route for your first time on Rainier.

     

    2nd tool/hammer choices

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    looked at matrix light as well. hammer seems really tiny--would use this to pound a picket occasionally.

     

    That is one of the reasons I am so fond of the Petzl Aztar/ex tools - the adze and hammer are very functional. I know alpinsits are using tools without hammers/adzes at all, but one of the reasons I bring a second tool is to place/remove pitons and pickets. I had a 50 cm SMC Himalayan ice hammer that was wonderful for this application due to its large hammer head and overall weight,

    Anyone have advice on guided climbs?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    My .02 cents. The cost sounds reasonable, but I would comparison shop at Timberline Mountain guides, Gresham Community College, The Mazamas, etc. Look not only at the price and what is included (rental gear), but also at the syllabus, the intstructor creditals, (all guides should be at minimum AMAGA aspirants and the head guide should be full AMGA Alpine Guide certified if you are going through a commerical outfit). The initial gear list can be a bit of a sticker shock. Rent and borrow what you can, and buy the remaining stuff used through this bbs.

    Mt Hood Gear list?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Stove, foamy, bivi sack, ... Didn't the three fellows who died on the North Face a few winter's ago have all that shit?

     

    No, they left it behind so they could travel light.

    My mistake. I suppose the take home message is if you are going to go light, you should probably go fast, also.

    Mt Hood Gear list?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I thought it was funny. I don't think a new climber would read Dave A's post and think 'Oh, pot, why didn't I think of that? The lifesaving properties are so obvious.'

     

    Stove, foamy, bivi sack, shovel, puffy, etcs certainly is not a bad idea, but may give new climbers a false sense of security. Didn't the three fellows who died on the North Face a few winter's ago have all that shit?

     

     

    Is resoling rock shoes worth it?

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted

    I think it is totally worth it to resole rock shoes, especially if you like the shoes. I usually pay about $40 for a half sole/rerand at Dave Page, but I haven't had to resole a pair in a while. I have heard that doing the sole is not super difficult, but if you need the rand redone it becomes a much more involved process and costs only and extra $10 for the pair if you are having the half sole done.

     

    Mt Hood Gear list?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I think a 30m x 8mm would be perfect. The last time I climbed hood the easiest route to the summit was climber's left of the old chute. If conditions are similar to what I last saw, there really were no steep sections on the left hand side, but the old chute was maybe 50 meters of steep ice, something I would have wanted a second tool for.

    Mt Hood Gear list?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Hi jamebill,

     

    I can't answer your question specifically, but I would say get the largest scale map of the south side you can find be it Green Trails, USGS, custom map, etc. The route finding is pretty straight forward if the visibility is fine.

    OuterSpace

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Approach for Outer Space will be significantly more difficult in the future as the space shuttle program is ending. Climbing conditions in Outer Space: perfect for sending. Cold temps keep the sweat down and lack of gravity makes hard problems easy.

     

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