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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

  1. Was actually considering getting a light double gear sling to avoid this but haven't yet.

     

    Hi Gene,

     

    I have a nice, light Black Diamond double gear sling in great shape I would sell you for $20.

  2.  

    I think part of taking advantage of mtn boots is make sure you get a narrow waisted mountaineering ski without huge side cut.

     

    I think Dane is spot on (as usual). For my approach set up I went from Silveretta 400s mounted on an old skewl pair of 180s to a light pair of 167cm skis with a narrow waist and big side cut. The difference was pretty amazing. I could actually carve fairly graceful turns in my Scarpa Invernos.

  3. I have a McHale pack that I am willng to let go. I twisted Dan's arm to build what was at that time a lightweight pack for alpine style climbing in Alaska.

     

    It is roughly the same size as an Andinista or Chaos but carries heavy loads far better, and IMHO climbs better. The pack was build to fit me (I'm 5'9" w1th a 19 3/4" back measurement). There is a fair amound of room for weight savings if you take a scissors to it and leave off the pockets.

     

    The pack is in very good condidion. It has a small scuff, but that is about it. I'm thinking $175. As far as bolts, the hip belt is threaded onto heavy duty, stainless steel ladder lock buckles. It is VERY securely attached.

  4. Great list of routes covering some choice spots in the North and Central Cascades. I think you will have a great time with this. If you are looking to round out your Cascades experience you may want to plan some big glacier climbs and alpine ice routes when you acquire the appropriate skills and gear.

  5. I would like to add that you are from Colorado, and therefore crap in the eyes of the NW climbing community.

    Don't feed sad, it is called the 'Seattle Freeze' and most new comers experience this to some degree or another. After a few years you'll be treated just like a local; with polite indifference.

  6. I've done TC twice, once in April 2003 and once in February. In April it was a straight forward climb with only 3 technical waterfall pitches that protected with screws well. In February 2000 the crux runnels were bare, slabby rock so we climbed the North Face variation which in the conditions we found them were very significantly more difficult than the standard TC route in fat shape.

  7. IMHO, one the biggest differences between the top shelf tools and the economy tools is the quality of the picks. With this in mind, I think it is better to buy older, but high quality tools. Charlet Moser Axar, Black Diamond Rage, Grivel Rambo are all solid tools and can be found used for reasonable prices. Many climbers will advise you to buy the best pair of tools you can possibly afford, and there is logic to that. The reality, however, is if you get a generation-old pair of tools you will have a lot improving to do before you out climb them.

  8. No one trip report stands out in my mind, rather the collected works by this profilific author create a new genre that melds the stream of concious ramblings of Jack Kerouac and the gothic aesthetic of Anthony Burgess. The morally ambigous protagonists are drawn across a damp, dangerous, and bleak landscape where adventure and, just as often, basic human survival are hewn from mossy rock faces. That author is ivan. (Note the lower case 'i'). And yes, got a B in English 201, Reading Fiction. 3 cr.

     

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