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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

  1. Mark,

     

    Both RPI and CSM are excellent schools. Congratulations on being accepted to both, it is quite an accomplishment.

     

    My family is from Colorado and my uncle went to the School of Mines and now my cousin, Dr. Ryan O'Hayre, teaches there. If you want to talk to Ryan about the local scene there I'd be happy to arrange an introduction. He is a climber and nice kid in addition to being a top fuel cell technology researcher.

     

    Dan

  2. I reached out to the WAC via email to basically ask "what gives?" and had a nice email exchange with one of their members who is going to call me this week. Maybe some good can come out of this and we can see an adjustment to the group size in the future. Surely they don't all have the same "we don't give a damn" attitude that Ira seems to have?

     

    Good work Layback. I was worried that I might someday be confronted by the backsides of a dozen lovelies ahead of me on The Tooth.

  3. This will sound weird, but it totally works. Buy 6 mm cord in your choice of colors. Cut two laces to length. Pull out the core. Fuse sheath ends with a lighter, and use the now flat sheath for the laces.

  4. If you don't want to accept any and all don't sell it under your name sell it under theirs

     

    As a consumer do you want to buy a private label product knowing the labeler (REI, Performance Bike, Safeway) won't accept responsibility for what's in the product manufactured by some entity you can't determine?

     

    Amen.

  5. "The issues addressed in any lawsuit are often complex and sometimes, as is the case here, have broad impacts beyond just the parties."

     

    The legal issues and ramifications may be complex, but the right thing to do seems pretty clear cut to me. I stopped shopping at REI for major purchases years ago, now I won't be buying so much as a fuel cannister or sunblock there.

     

    "The right to have a court or jury consider this question is important to all companies, big or small, that sell products under private labels."

     

    I read this as: "we are hoping the courts will find us not responsible for the shit we put our name on."

     

  6. In the last 4 weeks, two Mounties have given me dire warnings about Midway and Saber. Supposedly they are "old school" grades, really more like 5.8 under a fair & rational grading system.

    I've done both. To me Saber feels like a solid 5.7, Midway solid 5.5, both in the same vein that Dog Leg Crack is 5.8+. Probably no individual move is harder than those ratings, but the routes may feel somewhat more athletic and technical than routes of the same grade at Vantage or Little Si.

  7. I did Casaval Ridge over Memorial Day WE, 2009. I had a blast and recommend it. It really was not difficult. There was a section or two of exposed, steepish snow and some scrambly bits on rock. My partner had almost no prior mountaineering experience and he was comfortable climbing it ropeless.

     

    That said, we did meet a party from North Carolina who felt the 'Catwalk' was too exposed and traversed climber's left to finish via the West Face. A rope and a few pieces of gear, and of course the skills to use it all, could be helpful in a few spots to increase the saftey. I met a party on the way down pitching out a section (I was downclimbing).

     

    Also, there always seems to be a question about where to camp, whether to carry over or downclimb, etc. The tatic we chose worked really well. Here is a link to some words and images from my ascent: http://themountain-life.blogspot.com/2011/02/absolute-beginners-guide-to-mt-shasta.html

     

     

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