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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Rad,

     

    I am the last person who would criticise anyone's decision to ask for a rescue having been on both sides of the fence. I have been rescued and lost a load of gear and never expected it back (and did not get it back). I have also rescued climbers and lost gear in the process and never asked to be reimbursed (and was not).

     

    I stand by my suggestion and would have done exactly that: send the gear back with a note explaining the expenses incurred and let the gear's owner decide what is right.

     

    Dan

     

     

    Interesting rescue and resulting ethical quandary

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Clearly the classy thing to do is to ship the climbers their gear back with a simple accounting of the expenses incurred. Something like this:

     

    Cost of ferrying gear down the mountain: Blood, sweat, and tears

    Cost of air taxi to transport gear: $500

    Gas for 300 mile car trip to pick up the gear: $100

    Getting a free ride off the mountain AND your gear back: Priceless

    Mammut Monolith GTX

    in Newbies

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    I really like my Scarpa Summits for mountaineering, winter alpine and ice climbing. They are on closeout for $210 with the AVMARCH1 promo code:http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/,2015R_Scarpa-Summit-Gore-Tex-Mountaineering-Boots-Waterproof-For-Men.html If they don't have your size, look at the women's.

    Thin ropes- tag lines?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I tried with varying results to flake the tag line into a stuff sack clipped to my harness. While it helps to eliminate the line from getting caught up, it tended to knot up in the stuff sack anyway. Maybe the 5.5 mm techy cord would work better since it is stiffer?

    Grand Teton

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    I only remember one technical pitch up a wide, verglassed crack with big ass, stainless steel fixed pitons. At any rate, we had a fairly light rock rack because we were there to do the Black Ice and NW Ice Couloirs rather than hard rock routes.

    Sleeping bag- FF vs WM

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Hi,

     

    I have been looking at both the WM Summerlite and the FF Merlin. I have a WM Apache Super Dryloft and a FF Widgeon both of which have kept me warm at temperatures far below their ratings. In terms of quality, durability, cut, etc, I find the two brands to be very similar.

     

    As far as your second question, I would say it depends upon your objective. Doing Rainier right now with a 30 degree bag might leave you a bit chilly but would be fine at lower elevations. For later spring/summer/early fall a 30 degree bag would be ideal.

    Trad Climbing - Getting Down

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I can't see climbers leaving slings everywhere every time they climb a route.

    You're new to climbing, right? Go do the South Face of the Tooth, not only is every tree wrapped with a mile of brightly colored webbing, gear is stuck on nearly every pitch.

    Thin ropes- tag lines?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I did the skinny lead line (9.4 mm) and thin tag line (6-7mm) for a few years with various results. For clean raps it works well, but if there is any chance of the tag line getting caught, it will. The last time I used this system was on the North Face of Mt Index. We had so many problems pulling the ropes that I cut up the tag line for tat and prusiks as soon as I got home.

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