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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    New, from TTK Prestige Limited

    in Spray

    Posted

    My mother had this ancient aluminum (highly prized at the time due to war time shortages of aluminum) pressure cooker that she would reduce any and all vegetable matter to the consistency of mush. I stayed out of the kitchen when she used that thing, I was certain one day it would blow up the house.

    [TR] Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 9/10/2011

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    Very nice report and photos. The North Face, Price Glacier, and the new rock routes seem to get most of the attention on Mt. Shuksan, but I feel that in manny ways FC is a more interesting, varied, and enjoyable route. The bivies on top of the chimneys are hard to beat too.

    Easter Overhang, Midnight rock

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    What a great thread! I've always wanted o do a day of "old style" ice climbing, with wool, leatehr and wood involved. May be we should do a day of trad shoes, hexes and swami belts in Leavenworth before the snow flies.

     

    I should be safe enough if Sobo comes along :)

     

    Josh and I did laps on Givlers a few years ago with only a small rack of hexs. It was way fun.

     

    Guy Waterman wrote about his and Henry Barber's 50th?? anniversary ascent of a classic ice route in NH (Pinnacle Gulley, Odell's gulley?) wearing period clothing and using period climbing equipment. A couple of young climbers with modern gear gave them the stink eye, apparently thinking they were stuck behind a couple of old coots, but Guy and Henry easily outpaced the 'paper tigers'.

    [TR] Mt. Index, North Peak - North Face (NE Rib?) 9/3/2011

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    You guys need to try this again, by getting off route that early, you should've encountered hard, unprotectable slabs and been forced to rap off of twigs back into the first "obvious bowl". Shame on you! :laf:

     

    That was one of the mistakes we made. We wasted quite a bit of time trying to find a way up the slabs, lured by the odd fixed piece of gear. We eventually rapped back down and found the 'hidden' right step behind a boulder wrapped in a bunch of webbing.

    Training for winter climbing

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    Geebus. Nice video! Ok then, the questions?

     

    1) How did you approach?

     

    2) Was the rock as solid as it looked?

     

    3) Were you climbing an established route?

     

    4) How would you grade the climb (YDS/Commmittment grade) in the conditions you climbed it?

     

    you gotta know this one is coming...

     

    5) What is your assessment of the potential for winter routes on this side of the Mt?

     

    TIA,

     

    Dan

     

    6) Why have I never been to that side of Chair Peak?

    [TR] Mt. Stuart - West Ridge 9/24/2011

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Apologize. These are called tiger tails (I will edit this). Basically they are two lengths of rope (longer and dynamic rope ideally I suppose). Place a piece above you, make the move, place another piece and take out the lower. Obviously, this system is pretty limited, but it worked for me on this route.

    I recall some Yosemite big wall speed climbers using a similar system of three daisys to aid solo without a rope belay. :eek:

    cable suspended bridge

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    My wife is a bridge engineer (she built the new red bridge over the NF Snoqualmie on the way to Little/Mt Si). She said suspension bridges are a whole different ball of wax. Good luck.

     

    Damn...we tried to get that bridge!! We did get the index bridge waaaay back when...

    Didn't your firm and another (in a JV or partnership) win the D/B of the new Tacoma Narrows Bridge? I'd say that's a true winner and quite a prestigious grab...

     

    My wife is a DPW now. She managed the project for King County when she was a bridge engineer there. The design was done by a consultant, but she did pick the colors - her school colors to be exact.

    cable suspended bridge

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    I call bullshit on this one. Unless DPS has a source, I think this is a grossly exaggerated urban myth.

     

    From the USGS: http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1998/ofr-98-239/ofr-98-239.html

     

    "The Bainbridge Island landslide at Rolling Bay Walk is about three houses north of one that was pushed off its foundation on April 23, 1996 (#20, plate1.html; fig. 2). The landslide scar, deposits, and overturned house were still intact at the time of our observations, except for the disturbance caused by recovery operations. The scar of the slide was about 15 m wide, 15-20 m high, and averages 1 m deep. News reports indicated that the owner had built a retaining wall of unknown quality and design (Maier, 1997; Crist, 1997). Newspapers and a local resident indicated that the landslide happened shortly before 8:00 a.m., Sunday, January 19, 1997 (Maier 1997). A neighbor stated that the landslide lasted only a few seconds (Bjorhus and Tu, 1997). The row of houses appear to be constructed in a cut at the base of a steep bluff that rises from a narrow beach area. We observed scars of many old landslides on the bluff to the north of the houses. About five recent slides from 1996 and 1997 storms were visible along undeveloped bluffs not far north of the houses. More slides occurred at Rolling Bay Walk on March 18 and 19, 1997; these slides damaged two houses and pushed another house onto the beach (Wallace, 1997).

     

    The Oregonian: http://geography.uoregon.edu/mcdowell/geog322/newspaper_stories/seattle_area_mudslide_kills_family.htm

     

    The Seattle Times: http://community.seattletimes.nwsource.com/archive/?date=19970120&slug=2519698

     

    "The force of the slide flattened recently built retaining walls on the slope, officials said, pushing the house off its foundation and across a concrete walkway along the shore called Rolling Bay Walk. The two bottom floors of the house were buried in mud 8-feet deep in spots. Only the unfinished top floor of the house, which toppled on its side into the water, was visible."

     

     

     

     

    cable suspended bridge

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    The engineers seem to get too anxious when it comes to actually building/doing.

     

    I have a hard time believing any municipality would issue a building permit without plans stamped by a P.E./S.E. and building anything without a permit sets one up for huge liability not to mention if an inspector sees it they will likely make you dismantle the structure. (Inspectors can be a bit vindictive this way). As a third generation builder I've seen it happen.

     

    I recall one family who built a waterfront home on Bainbridge (or was it Vashon) Island on a steep slope. The homeowner built a concrete retaining wall without engineering or permits. An inspector 'red tagged' the home citing the retaining wall was improperly engineered and built. The homeowner went through political channels to reverse the inspector's decision and the red tag was removed. Next heavy rain event the retaining wall catastrophically failed and the hillside slumped, knocking the house off the foundation and into the water, burying it in the process. The entire family died.

    cable suspended bridge

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    DPS: our bridge won't have to carry cars. I think we can stretch some cable across the void and it'll "work" but we may have to guy it out to trees or other anchor points off to the side of mid-span in order to make it comfortable.

     

    My comment of susupension bridges being a whole different ball of wax was meant to convey that even within the bridge engineering community, suspension bridges are considered a specialized niche.

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