DPS

Dane has a recent conditions report in this thread: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1016983/Re_Snow_Lake_Alpental_Conditio#Post1016983 It is supposed to warm up today and tomorrow, I'd be very weary of avalanches.

I think getting a solid base in traditional rock climbing should be your first step. Learning efficient rope management, anchor building, team dynamics, belaying, rappelling, knots, prusiking, etc. can be practiced until it is second nature on a sunny rock cliff. Then traditional glacier mountaineering, and finally waterfall climbing. By then you should be fit, effecient, and ready to handle the uncomfortable aspects of ice climbing.

Everybody has opinions and they are all worth what you pay for them. Here is mine. As a general rule, try not to climb up into a storm. Even more fail safe.

Scarpas fit my wide foot better as well. For Adams and Baker either Charmoz or Triolet should be fine in the summer. As for Rainier, in July-August they might be ok, but I personally like a little bit warmer boot e.g. Scarpa Mont Blanc.

Not surprised at all. I sent in a pair of gaitors to OR have the velcro sewed back on. Received a brand spankng new pair and a note "Those Crocs were a travesty." (They had been well loved).

Anyone hard up enough to break into cars to finance their next fix is someone you probably don't want to run into. There was an incident a couple of years ago at the parking lot for a natural hot springs. A young couple caught a car prowler in the act and they ended up on the losing end. While climbers are generally fit, strong folks armed with ice axes, we are decent people who don't want to hurt anyone. Criminals don't have that hangup.

Ok, thanks. I was worried for you. I hope the skier is ok.

Does anybody know if this is Loren/CascadeClimber's group?: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1014856/1_5_day_Rainier_this_wknd#Post1014856

Consider yourself lucky.

Oh, and MSR gets two thumbs up from me.

Every insurance company in the world. Fuckers.

Plus you'll die.

Cotton works better to clean sunglasses.

I have pretty sensitive skin and eyes. I have found Aloe Gator Gel SPF 40 to be the best I have tried. It is available at REI.

I think he was referring to the climate (wet side/dry side separated by high mountains) more than anything.

A colleague I used to work with described New Zealand as flying halfway around the world to climb in Washington.

Just spoke with a friend who reported dangerous avalanche conditions on certain north face aspects this weekend.

Contact Jason Martin, a program director there. He is a solid guy, I'm sure you guys can get it worked out.

You are thinking of Muscular Dystrophy.

Hi Gene, I have a nice, light Black Diamond double gear sling in great shape I would sell you for $20.

I think Dane is spot on (as usual). For my approach set up I went from Silveretta 400s mounted on an old skewl pair of 180s to a light pair of 167cm skis with a narrow waist and big side cut. The difference was pretty amazing. I could actually carve fairly graceful turns in my Scarpa Invernos.

Agreed Americans are supposed to better than that.

Great list of routes covering some choice spots in the North and Central Cascades. I think you will have a great time with this. If you are looking to round out your Cascades experience you may want to plan some big glacier climbs and alpine ice routes when you acquire the appropriate skills and gear.

Thanks Wayne! Hopefully I credited the photographers correctly. Although, if you read carefully I spelled Jesse's name differently each time. By mistake.

I don't hope I get killed by a cougar, but 'hiker killed by cougar' makes better headlines than 'middle age man dies of a heart attack'.