DPS

I had a burst L5/S1 disk that went undiagnosed and a massive bone infection resulted. Half each of my L5 and S1 vertebrae were removed and a piece of a femur was installed in the interstitial space. Another piece of bone from my hip, two steel plates and 8 screws hold it together. It doesn't slow me down nearly as much as my fused right arm, but that's another story.

Are you sure it is not D.P.B (deer pattern baldness)?

I was only a figment of your imagination. I was home watching T.V. Nothing to report.

What Sabertooth said. I was referring to the Early Winter Couloir. The SW Couloir is far easier, I found it a very tame solo route.

Ohhhh, so its the fact he had money that makes it so sad. I see.

You mean kind of like the Islamic terrorists?

Why is this any sadder than the 1000 other kids that George W sent to die? Because he was good at a stupid game?

Do you mean the East facing couloir that separates North and South Early Winter Spires? I climbed it a number of years ago in April. It was 5 60 meter pitches of mixed snow and ice with rock steps over large chockstones. Most of it was 55 degrees, but kicked back to 75 right under the cornice. The cornice was the crux. I aided the rock wall on the left (A2) using cams and KBs until cracks ran out. I then aided the over hanging cornice on pickets to the top. From the col climb gulleys to the summit of North Early. Take 6 medium nuts, KBs, angles, 4 cams to 2", pickets, ice tools and ice screws.

I hate it only because I have forgotten how to rock climb. The 5.6's scare me.

Godzilla-Slow Children, Davis-Holland, Roger's Corner-Breakfast of Champions, Princely Ambitions, GM, Heart of the Country. The Sky Valley Rock book is pretty nice.

Jeremy spoke in class today.

I did teach myself to climb by reading a book. I have never taken a class. The Mountaineers rolled out of camp at precisely 6:30 AM, not unlike Patton's 3rd army, to over run the pracice cliffs. By 7:00 the devestation was complete. Unfortunately, the Mountaineers/Boealps did not recieve the news flash that there are other climbers. They seem to think they are the only ones.

Second Ascent has both down and synthetic puffys at good prices. I noticed they had Patagonia, Mummut, Golite, all of which make good jackets.

I made the rule up. You read it here first. Feel free to quote me. 'Excuse me Mr Mountie, but you must step aside as I am leading and you are merely following. I'm sure you've read the Book of Dan.' 'Why yes of course, lead on through my good man.'

Last weekend in the Icicle a Boealp guy mentioned they 'reserved' Mountaineers dome for the weekend of 24/25. I wondered alound how one reserves a rock and where I could go to get such a reservation. He explained they had not really reserved it, they just string ropes all over the place. Now this practice has never really bothered me much as I never climbed at the beginners areas except for soloing. (I never realized I might have offended folks' sensibilities). But now that my wife is climbing, I like to take her on easier climbs. So all of you Boealps and Mountaineers should know this: You have every right to string top ropes where you want to. You even have the right to tie up a crag all freaking weekend. However, leading takes priority over top roping. So if someone wants to lead through your top rope, be nice about it and step aside. Don't pull any 'we have a class bullshit', or 'we reserved this crag' or 'we were here first'. I don't care, none of that matters. What matters is that I lead, and you don't so get out of my way.

The BD Ice Pack carries well with 40+ lbs of gear. I have it and like it very much. I am sure you are much smarter than me and can figure out how to properly pack an Andinista so it won't carry like a turgid sausage.

I managed a full day climbing on Saturday in the Icicle with out crossing paths with any Mounties. On Sunday we climbed Saber with about a million of them, and one party very nicely retrieved some gear that my wife could not get. Thanks guys!

Bonjour Frank, Comment c'est va? June is too late for Gib Ledge. Kautz Glacier and Fuherer may still be in good condition. You will not need a reservation for these routes. Serac and icefall are a greater concern than avalanches on these routes in June. Expect temperatures at night as cold as 25 degrees Faherenheit. You will have to rent a car from the airport to get to Paradise. Their might be a shuttle, I am unsure.

I have been using the Betamid for a couple of years now and I really like it. I bought it rather than the larger pyramid style tents because I usually climb with just one partner. The floor space is excellent for the weight. Wind stability has so far been better than expected. It weathered a moderate storm on Rainier very well, but I have mostly only used it in good weather.

I also really enjoyed Bare Mountain (Bear Mtn?) to the North of Mt Si. I did it years ago, but I remember driving through North Bend to get to it. There used to be a look out on top. I'm sure it is in a hiking book somewhere.

Rattlesnake Mountain in North Bend. Really a great trail to the 'Ledge', a nice view point (1.5 miles, 1100') then a more adventurous trail and a bit of road to the summit (4 miles, 2500' total.) There was snow at the top a couple of weeks ago, but I bet with the hot weather most of it has melted.

Awwww, what does joepuryear know about climbing in Alaska? BTW, I saw your photo on the cover of the BD Catalogue, very cool!

In the past I have approached Ptarmigan Ridge by way of Mowich Lake and Spray Park. The road typically remains gated at Paul Peak until August so the approach is pretty long. Plus you would have to descend the route or park another car at Paradise if you wanted to descend the DC route. Is it feasible to approach via White River allowing a descent of the Emmons? Has anyone done this? Any coments on length or difficulty?

I used the Gore-Tex iron on repair fabric. It has lasted 4 years now.

Actually I hope to eventually redpoint a 5.6. My wife and I will be camping and climbing in Leavenworth for the weekend, so I was hoping to do a tour of the easy, accessible routes.