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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Leavenworth snow

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    Report from the weekend:

     

    There is some ice on dragontail and colchuck, though mostly up high and thin. The only line that really looks continuous is the one between TC and backbone. I heard some big ice/rock fall saturday after noon.

     

    Around 6500-7K the snow gets annoying on aasgard pass. Once on top the snow is continuous, pretty deep to hard crust. It was windy as all hell satuday night and sunday morning.

     

     

    Did you get a look at the NE Couloir on Dragontail? It should be visible from Aasgard Pass.

    wStuck gear on City Park

    in Lost and Found

    Posted

    On Sunday 11/16/2008 I managed to get 3 newer, anodized Black Diamond stoppers stuck on City Park. A few taps with a hammer and nut tool should remove them. If you happen to retrieve them and want to return them, I would be very gratefull. If you want to keep them, well that is fine too. bighurtbob@hotmail.com

    Hood North Face Access?

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    what the south side descent like this time of year? Do you have to rap? off what?

     

    I did the North Face a couple of years ago around this time of year. We made an easy descent 100 yards skiers right of the Pearly Gates. Pearly Gates were steep and icy.

    Colfax conditions (???)

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Lincoln Peak east face wall looks sheer at the map.

    Are there any ice climbs up there?

    A couple of weeks ago while on Colfax I got a look at Lincoln. I saw no obvious, continuous lines on Lincoln. Made me way impressed by Klenke et al. ascent earlier this year.

    New to Forum, need boot advice

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I find insulated leather/synthetic leather style boots to work well for Rainier and winter climbing on lower peaks. Many manufacturers make good ones, the trick is to find the pair that fits best. Some good manufactures include La Sportiva, Scarpa, Boreal, and Kayland. Any climbing boot will accept BD Contact Strap (or similar) crampons.

    Mt. Hood December Attempt.

    in Newbies

    Posted

    1. Will the mountain be crowded or will I be completely alone and kicking out the snow in Dec?

     

    The standard route climbs through a ski resort. If you have good weather and conditions, I doubt you will be alone.

     

    2. Do I need to be roped on a South Route attempt? I've gotten mixed reviews from different climbers and while I'm not planning on it, let me know if this is a bad plan.

     

    I have never been roped while climbing or descending the South Side.

     

    3. Aside from the normal preparations for a winter/alpine ascent, is there anything unusual or important to know about Hood or the Cascades in December? My understanding is that rockfall is less likely but storms have a greater chance of mucking things up.

     

    Watch the weather, it will come from the South so you should see it coming. If the weather is starting to get bad, go home. Do not climb into a storm. Taking compass bearings or using a GPS to get yourself back down in a white out is a good idea.

     

    Parkas for Denali?

    in Alaska

    Posted

    I used a Wild Things Belay Parka and it was fine with a mid weight zip tee and a powerstretch zip tee underneath. This was end of May - beginning of June. I also brought a primaloft sweather to wear under the Belay Parka if I got cold, but never had to wear the two together.

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