DPS
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I am planning on doing Rainier this winter again, but not by any of the south side routes. As for me:
Looking for partners with adequate experience - yup
very good fitness - uh, how about good enough fitness?
and, most importantly, a lot of ambition - especially while I am sitting behind a computer
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NE Face of Eldorado is probably in right now.
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Dan,
As I said in the other thread, I'd love to go. If you see me up at 7am then I'll go, if not then don't bother!
And I'd like to go from Colchuck lake to snow lake, I've only done the complete loop the other way.
Also, how much/fast are you guys gonna be running? I haven't put down a 17 miler in quite some time.
I am not super fast, and I have not done the loop before so I don't have a good idea of what a reasonable time would be, maybe 4 - 5 hours?
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I was thinking of starting somewhere between 7:00 and 8:00, but I am flexible. I was thinking of starting at Mountaineers Creek and running Colchuck to Snow Lakes simply because that way you start higher which means less elevation gain, but I don't have a strong opinion either way.
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Dan - if the weather is bad, I'll be more than happy to do that loop with you.
Sounds good, looking forward to meeting everyone.
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I'll be there Sat-Sun. Looking for running partners for the snow lakes-colchuck lake loop run on Sunday. Willing to climb with newbies on Saturday on easy stuff (Midway, Groundhogs Day, Saber, R+D, etc).
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I am planning on being at the Rope Up Saturday and Sunday. I plan to climb on Saturday but would like to do the Snow Creek Trail to Colchuck Lake loop as a trail run on Sunday. Anyone care to join me? It would be nifty to get a couple of cars to park at Snow Lake TH and Mountaineers Creek TH to avoid any road running.
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Try carrying a 90lb pack up Desolation Peak and babysitting a BBC film crew for two days, including removing the used tea bag ornaments they'd hung in trees after use, while filming a documentary on Jack Kerouac. Does that count as experience?
What was really funny was how they filmed out of sequence so that the narrator had a vicious sunburn in the early scenes and was lily white by the end.
Has said documentary been released? What is it called? Inquiring minds want to know.
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I was planning on skipping church tomorrow for a dawn patrol trip up the Tooth, but I have to be back in Issaquah by noon. Email bighurtbob@hotmail.com if interested.
Dan
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Spire Rock in Spanaway is a man made bouldering wall, high enough to set topropes and rappel.
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Pro Mountain Sports in the U district, I think.
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I know there are skills I need to learn, but there is only so much you can learn without doing.
Winter climbing skills are best learned on smaller peaks that in the winter become worthy mountaineering goals. I recommend that you look into the following:
Snoqualmie Pass
Chair Peak, Guye Peak, Red Mountain, The Tooth
Mt Rainier
Castle Peak, Lane Peak, Pinnacle Peak, Camp Muir
North Cascades
Whitehorse, Twin Sisters, Sahale Peak
Central
Colchuck Peak, Dragontail Peak
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Here is another thought:
Explain to the judge that you are a trained medical first responder and volunteer for the local search and rescue organization so when you saw the officer waving you thought he needed assistance and that you might be able to help.
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Challenge the ticket. Request that the officer be present at hearing. Tell the judge your story. Oh, and shave and get a hair cut. Good luck.
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The runout pitches are slabby face, 5.6. They have protection but you end up climbing 20 -30 ft between pieces. There are a couple of these pitches. Also the first 5.8 pitch is a wide crack which can be run out if one does not have big pieces and the Bear Hug pitch is run out unless you have gear to 6". The climbing is pretty secure on both pitches.
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Trip: South Early Winter Spire - SWRib
Date: 9/20/2008
Trip Report:
jesselillis and I climbed the SW Rib of South Early Winter Spire on Saturday. The route was excellent and the weather held. Jesse lead the akward and/or runout pitches. Afterward we went to Mazama and Jesse on sighted a bunch of hard sport climbs on Fun Rock. I belayed. We retired to our bivi site at the hairpin pullout but it started to rain. We figured it would rain on Sunday so we made the long drive back to Seattle. All in all a great day in the hills with a great climbing partner.
Gear Notes:
Mediumrackbigpieces4CamalotwouldbeusefulfortheBearHugpitch
Approach Notes:
Tennisshoes
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Advice from others who may have climbed it in the winter would also be welcome (Rainier TRs from the winter months seem to be lacking on cc.com)
Plan to go later in the season - Late February through March. Early in the season the prevailing winds from the south scour that side of the mountain leaving thin, weak snow bridges. Sastrugi snow forms, effectively concealing crevasses.
There is typically a high pressure system around President's Day weekend that is fairly reliable.
Gibralter Ledges route is one of the better choices for winter routes.
Dress warm.
Bring extra fuel.
Know how to safely descend to Paradise in a white out - the climbing rangers can give you a little map with compass bearings and way points. Those GPS thingys work pretty well too. Wands are a good idea above Camp Muir.
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But, where to buy high altitude liners? ...Any thoughts?
Marmot sells Intuition liners. I think Feathered Friends and Pro Mountain Sports do as well.
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I think it is not allowed, but the ranger suggested that if one doesn't get caught that its all good.
There are a couple of bivi sites that are free: under the bridge that crosses the Icicle River (don't laugh, its pretty nice) and a mile or so up 8 mile road (the way to Colchuck Lake TH) there is a large pull out on the left that folks camp at.
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Does Larry the Tool hassle you for camping in those pullouts on IC Road?
I'm not in the mood to have my mellow harshed this weekend.
Yes. Got 'busted' once doing this. A ranger told me to camp in the woods so I would not get caught biving on the road. He then flashed me the peace sign.
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What kind of knot is that, anyway? Doesn't look like a double-fisherman.
Re-traced figure eight. Kind of like a water knot, but using a figure eight. Had a partner that liked to tie the rappel ropes together that way.
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The first tent I owned, a single wall, precursor to the EV2 fell apart in the first storm it encountered. The second tent has plastic pole tips which break easily. I tried to get replacement metal or extra plastic tips but my emails go unanswered.
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I did Rainier in 8 hours - spread over two days.
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Every MH product I have owned had serious design/manufacturing defects. Customer service has been unresponsive as well.
Alpine ice climbs in October?
in Newbies
Posted
I would bet a dollar that it is melted out now.