[[TR] Mt. Shuksan - Curtis Blow - ski 2/18/2009]

Cool.

[beta request - Pinnacle peak, winter ascent]

Jason Martin and I attempted the North Ridge a number of years back. We found good ice leading to the summit horn then bare, compact rock that did not take pro well. KBs or Bugaboos may have worked, but I don't think we had any. We backed off at that point.

[sil shelters- nighthaven v betalight (v others?)]

I really like my Betamid. Been in all kinds of weather in all seasons. Pretty storm resistant if well anchored and guyed out. Light, roomy, but kind of poor head room.

[[TR] Chair Peak - North Face 2/15/2009]

How many time have you climbed Chair now?

 

How was the area for skiing?

[Cascade River Road conditions?]

Anybody been up Cascade River road lately? How far up can one drive? Any blocking trees, etc?

 

TIA,

 

Dan

[Climbing or skiing partner Fri& Sat (Feb 13-14)]

I entered the wrong dates on my last post.

 

Looking to get out this Friday and Saturday. Want to climb and/or BC ski. Maybe climb NF Shuksan and ski White Salmon. Open to suggestions. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

[Climbing/skiing partner Friday-Saturday (Feb 6-7)]

Looking to get out this Friday and Saturday. Want to climb and/or BC ski. Maybe climb NF Shuksan and ski White Salmon. Open to suggestions. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

[Snow lake quickie tour]

I took the new setup. I must have the boots/socks combo completely dialed in now because I only got one silver dollar sized blister!

[Snow lake quickie tour]

I don't own a camera so no pics.

 

I was touring up to the Snow Lake at Snoqualmie, so I did not see D-tail. My experience suggests that March-April is the best time for ice on D-tail.

[Snow lake quickie tour]

Toured up to Snow Lake this morning. At the parking lot a woman walking her dog demanded to know where I was going, if I was alone, and if I had a least a radio. I told her I had an Ipod as radios are sooo last century. Conditions were hard and icy but were beginning to soften up on slopes in the sun.

[Need your help - New gym in the Ham]

Dave,

 

Was that Carlos Hatfield you worked for? If so, Alex and I helped build that POS gym

 

Dan

[Washington Ice Conditions]

Climbed at the Alpental 1 & 2 falls today. Conditions were ok, but suffering somewhat from the warm temps.

[Ice - Sunday 2/1/2009 - Snoqualmie Pass]

Looking for a partner to ice climb tomorrow at Snoqualmie Pass. If you be new I can lead easy stuff, if you be experienced I can follow harder stuff. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com.

[NE Buttress of J'Berg]

I'll bet a dollar its in fine shape right now. Someone with time on their hands should go send it.

[1930s Mystery Wall - Do you recognize it?]

UW wall. If you look carefully you can see The Coach in the background.

[[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 1/25/2009]

We did the right hand line.My partner took photos, I'll see if I can post them.

[[TR] Argonaut - NE Couloir 1/24/2009]

 

I heard a rumor of a winter repeat going down in that area recently.

 

Does anyone know who did the FWA?

[[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 1/25/2009]

Thakns for the beta; I would have climbed the Tooth if you had not posted your trip report.

 

A pair of climbers walked under the NF then walked back to the NE buttress. I suspect all parties climbed the NE Butt, but I could be mistaken.

[[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 1/25/2009]

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

 

Date: 1/25/2009

 

Trip Report:

Seemingly half of Seattle and all of Everett convereged on the NE Buttress on Sunday. Conditons on the buttress were the easiest I have yet seen with good neve and decent ice and enough exposed rock to offer reliable pro.

 

Although conditions were ripe for a goat rodeo of an unprecedented scale every one got along and things worked out pretty well as a collegiate atmosphere prevailed.

 

Gear Notes:

4 ice screws, mostly shorties, couple kb/bugaboo pins, few small-medium nuts, cams .5, .75, 1.

 

Approach Notes:

No floatation necessary - easy peasy.

[[TR] Chair Pk - NE Butt. 1/22/2009]

Thank you.

[Wanted size 9-9/12 Tele/Rando boots]

I don't have a photo of the actual boots, but here is a link to what they look like:

 

http://www.outdoorreview.com/mfr/scarpa/older-randonee-boots/PRD_80145_2983crx.aspx

[Wanted size 9-9/12 Tele/Rando boots]

I have a pair of Scarpa Tambos, size 9 that I could part with. They are an AT boot and climb pretty well. They are both missing the power strap. I am in Issaquah and really don't want to ship.

[filter pump or tablets...?]

I like chlorine dioxide tablets over iodine. The literature (peer reviewed science journals) suggests that chlorine dioxide is effective against Giardia spp and Cryptorsporidium spp. given enough contact time.

 

FWIW, I worked for over 10 years as a water quality scientist. I investigated Giardia spp. and Cryptorsporidium spp. in surface waters and found them in every stream I sampled, including streams in protected watersheds. Now, these were often low concentrations, however it indicates how wide spread these organisms are.

 

The one time I for sure had a water borne illness I got from drinking untreated snow melt at the base of the East Ridge of Eldorado. I was ill for months, but definitely not by Giardia or Crypto. Never figured out what it was, but I didn't like it. My personal experience along with my research suggests that one is much more likely to be ill from bacteria than protozoans when drinking untreated water. And sick is sick regardless of the bug that is causing it.

[Liberty Ridge - Winter approach options]

Re White River approach. HWY 410 is closed at Crystal Mountain BLVD so one must manage 12 miles of road just to get to White River Campground. A sled would be useful for this.

[[TR] Mt. Rainier National Park - Glacier Basin 1/19/2009]

By my arithmetic that was 30+ miles skiied for ~800 vf of turns.