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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Rainier in 1 day

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    That said, partying at camp Muir on 2 day ascents is some of the best camping ever. International feel close to home.

     

    I used to do most of my climbing as day climbs, mostly because I was a single parent and it was hard to get more than a day off. Now I really enjoy camping, I look forward to bivis. I did Rainier last September and we could have easily done it in a day, but instead we enjoyed hanging out at camp Muir, drinking tea, and chatting with folks and acclimatizing for an easy summit day.

    Hwy 165 to Mowich Lake/Spray Park colsure????

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Hello,

     

    I have been into spray park in early spring a number of times to climb Ptarmigan Ridge and to ski in spray park. That time of year I have been able to drive Hwy 165 to where it is gated at Paul Peak trail head.

     

    Does anyone know if Hwy 165 is drivable to Paul Peak trailhead in mid winter (February/March) or if it is too snowy?

     

    TIA

     

    Denali gear advice?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    basically just your airfare to anchorage, then a couple hundred bucks to the park and your air charter

     

    Bush flights have increased in price a lot in the last couple of years. TAT is charging $560 to Kahiltna Glacier. There is also the $200 climbing fee, the cost of the shuttle to talkeetna ($100)

    Denali gear advice?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    The otyher debate is skis vs. snowshoes. I still prefer skis, but we went earlier in mid May so the crevasses had not opened as much and we felt comfortable skiing down ski hill unroped. Ditched the skis at 11k.

     

     

    I have used skis on every Alaska trip I have done and recommend them except for Denali. We ditched our skis at 11k too, and I felt it was not worth it to schlep the skis through the airport and incur the $50.00 extra baggage fee for a couple of days use.

    Denali gear advice?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Looking for advice for our somewhat ignorant two-man team. We're trying the West Butt in June and could use some guidance.

     

    Does anybody have any opinions about the following?

    TENT: If I buy a new tent (I think my old Wild Cntry tent is too sketchy) should I look at a three-man rather than a two, for comfort? I saw the Mtn Hrdware Trango (2 and 3) on sale and am tempted. Any other favorites for a trip like McKinley?

    STOVE(S): I've got my old MSR whisperlite stove and am wondering if we should get a second (redundant) one or if the benefit of a higher-end XGK would be worth the $.

    SHOVELS: We each have regular BD climbers' shovels and are having trouble imagining bringing the steel, wood-handled jobbers recommended in some guide books.

     

    Any insights about these or anything else is appreciated!

     

    Trango 2 is plenty big for 2 people. I used one for a Ruth Gorge trip where it stormed nearlly every day for two weeks. It was very liveable.

     

    Yes, bring an extra stove. XGK is a good choice.

     

    Just bring your Black Diamond shovels.

    Looking to improve skiing ability - opinions?

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

     

    I don't remember the boots you were wearing when you broke your foot, but I thought they were fairly lightweight touring boots? A really good boot can't be emphasized enough: one that will keep you warm and dry all day, and not make you sweat too much in the up-tracks.

     

    I was wearing Scarpa Tambos, a light weight 2 buckle boot. I bought a new set up with taller, stiffer boots that I hope to be able to ski on next weekend.

    Looking to improve skiing ability - opinions?

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    Hello,

     

    I have skiied for a long time but not often enough to get very good. In bounds I can comfortably ski diamond runs albeit while displaying a stunning lack of grace and form. I would like to improve and wonder if taking a lesson would be helpful or if spending the money on lift tickets and practicing more would be better. My main interest is ski touring and easy ski mountaineering. Opinions?

     

    TIA,

     

    Dan

    Winter Ascent

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Mtnguide's advice to watch the weather and go when you get a decent forecast is probably the best strategy. If you don't have that much flexibility I would recommend planning your trip around President's Day weekend, a time period when we often enjoy a high pressure system that brings stable weather.

     

    Perhaps come out for the week before and the week after President's Day. And come with the idea of flexibility and the willingness to go where the weather is best be it the Enchantments, Stuart Range, Mt Hood, or B.C.,Canada,

     

    Bring skis and ice gear to give yourself some options if the high peaks have bad weather.

    Winter Ascent

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Most likely the weather is going to be too poor to climb, but then again it could be great.

     

    If you do make the trip, make alternate plans in case the weather on Rainier is bad. Weather is often better on the east side of the crest and there are some notoble winter climbs on Dragontail, Colchuck, and Mt Stuart.

    Cascade Climb Recommendations

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 :)

     

    I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me.

     

    Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all.

     

    Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas.

    ok - i wouldn't dismiss it out of hand b/c of me though :) check out the various tr's on it here - it's not dangerous, just very easy to get to, very long, very exciting, very scenic and spectacular, and generally a climb that anyone who drives up the rd to cascade pass must dream about doing, given its instantaneous and spellbinding effect on the first glimpse - it's a mix of vertical forest, steep heather slopes, rock-scrambling (the crux is a 1/4 pitch chimney that's more realistically 5.8), then steepish glacier (in short, every kind of challenge the cascade's can throw at you rolled into one big mountain route - doable in 2 days)

    And its even better in winter!

    Cascade Climb Recommendations

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    For more remote climbs look into routes on Gunsight Peak, Inspiration Feak, The Chopping Block, and Mt Triumph.

     

    These are not really remote as they can all be done in a long day from the car but otherwise fit your criteria:

     

    Prusik Peak - West Ridge

    Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete

    Mt Stuart - North Ridge or West Ridge

    Sherpa Peak - North Ridge or West Ridge

    Forbidden Peak - North Ridge or West Ridge

     

    These are not at all remote but are still excellent climbs:

     

    Liberty Bell - Beckey Route

    South Early Winter Spire - SW Rib

    Burgandy Spire - North Face

     

     

     

     

     

    Advice please: need new AT ski gear

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    Hello,

     

    I am looking to upgrade my AT ski set up. When I bought my Silveretta 400s they were the only game in town, now there are many more choices. What do people like: Dynafit, Fritchi, Silveretta, Marker, Naxo?

     

    I ski a little bit of everything; ski mountaineering, touring, groomed runs. In general I want a binding with better release capabilities and one that offers better control when skiing steeps and also is easy to change into and out of touring mode.

     

    TIA,

     

    Dan

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