Lostbolt

Most excellent!!

Interesting trip report and Climb. The others that have commented are good climbers, some I know personally. Its nice to see you guys hear the advice and respond positively. I have read Down and actually own a copy, some of the ways things are done in there are only good for certain situations. Learning from others I.E a guide, The Mountaineers, Washington Alpine Club are worth it. Don't be afraid to reach out and ask to gain good experience bumming a ride to Hyalite and tagging along to learn is very possible and being up front and honest money and skill wise is nothing to be ashamed of. Proper planning including, having Plan A,B,C, A detailed topo of previous routes and descents, pre trip and post weather information seem so boring but will make your trip that much better. Don't rely on one source like technology or mountain project. Work or that hot dinner date ect are not worth compounding and increasing the risk of your life. If you made a bad call and showed up at noon or the next day, a good person would understand and be glad you are safe. I have been on longer than expected climbs 26hrs+/-. A mylar emergency bivy bag and a jet boil will keep you coming back the next day. I definitely understand tunnel vision planning to stop and eat drink at this time or this belay station and making it a must will help curb the crash. The approach and grade are something to work into, its hard to ditch the go big mindset but its a must for a long life. I have always been diligent about stair stepping. It never crossed my mind of attempting Trip Col. before I felt comfortable on chair peak NE Butt. ect. Take a few more years learning mixed and Ice in a controlled environment with less commitment, use these crags to hone your skills. The rope and gear are there to protect us for the oh shit moments, not to allow us to climb above our grade and take whippers. There is no shame in bailing at the base because its more than you expected. Good job making it out, seems like you all ready know this is a big learning experience. I hope that your next one is less of a pucker factor and more fun even if its only 2 pitches. Don't be afraid to reach out. Climb safe and stay Humble.

That is just RAD man great report!! I have wished to get into there in the winter, excellent use of the weather window we had!

Good to know look forward to a report when you get back and best of luck. I was planning on this spring but due to life have to push it out a year. Oly or Jason I hope I would be able to take you up on that offer when my planning phase gets closer.

Excellent Job and that exit shot of the chimney is priceless!

Round 2 out Hyalite, hopefully Liberty Ridge, and the North face of Shuksan. Ideally Lincoln peak but I don't know if conditions will be favorable this year.

Winter or Summer ? I would possibly go, I have only tagged the top in summer/spring

I don't know if this helps but I have ordered a few out of print magz from these guys. The person I emailed with (belive its only one person) is a awsome person and made good on everything. Even if it was out of stock he notified me when he found one! Hope this helps and glad to see you both having lots of fun this winter season! https://www.topworldbooks.com/index.aspx

I second this posting. I was able to get in there 3 years ago, a friend lives in the neighborhood. The Family that has the property furthest back from the road mentioned his disappointment in the climbers that come tromping up the creek through his yard. We asked he gave us permission and said thank you, let us park in the driveway. I can't see this being a normal thing but asking is better than ,getting chased by dogs, or peppered with rock salt (that has happened since I was a teenager lol.

I spent the first 15 years of my life cross country skiing, but its been a good 25 years since I have touched skis. A good friend and climber talked me into trying telemark to ease approaches and hopefully on the way out also from climbing trips. I modified the bindings and used a old crampon lock strap so that I can use my LA sportiva nepals. It totally seems solid for the few trips I have made going up and down forest service roads mostly cross country skiing. I will post a picture of them tomorrow. I guess my question is whats the best techniques for telemark.. any advice that can be given besides physical demonstrations? I plan I booting up white pass to do a few runs before the snow is gone.

Holy crap you guys are Animals, way to go out and get it. I can't express in words how cool this is that you guys were in high spirits and successful. Excellent motivation keep up the good climbing, and also congrats on another 2 down.

I was out there 2 summers ago the moss has stayed sparse and the approach was simple and direct. the route looked clean. We didn't do the route but stayed on the lower shelf the kids had fun, I am out there quiet often and haven't ran into anyone climbing. I would go for it!

Been trying to get partners for that route lined up for the last month, glad the stars aligned for you!

I have seen heard a lot of them in the MRNP Tatoosh range this summer. I was climbing the west ridge of Castle and got super surprised by a low flying drone when the person took it up the face not knowing whom what was over the ridge. I chucked a rock and they got the hint.

Thanks I did go down that path especially with a family in tote. It has been a very speedy recovery we are going on 11 1/2 months post incident and last month I was leading 5.7 out Tieton and lots of 5.9-10 sport outside. I have made quiet a few rock crag trips with my middle son. It has given me some time to slow down and do easy stuff to teach him proper skills, that I am very great full for that opportunity. I was after a 2 day trip the other weekend but it turned into 15 mile day trip out Goat rocks the other weekend. My new mountaineering boots were very comfortable and besides being a little out of shape I didn't have any major pain or discomfort. I am headed to Bozeman, MT this month with a old friend to test the last piece of the puzzle on some hopefully good Ice. I would say the worse part about this whole situation has been the concussion, I still have light and sound sensitivity (when tired), change of personality, and having a hard time getting more than 6hrs of sleep ( due to my brain turning on).

Nice idea and not a horrible list!

There goes Winter spires and liberty bell, hoards from seatac will be approaching soon... 🤣

How goes it with the recovery, you still jiving down the side walk?? I was able to top rope some routes out McCleary Rocks today, thanks to a great friend that came along. I feel the need to pick up a stationary bike, no matter how much walking and stairs I have been doing the shin muscle tendon doesn't seem to want to loosen up. I had to do a lot of switching feet and lead with my good foot so leading 5.6/.7 is still out of range but class 2 3 scrambles are achievable. I might have some free weekends in July if you want to get out for something you are comfortable on then lets go for it and enjoy some low consequence fun!

Good news, I went at my first actual hike, haven't done more than a mile before the hike. Me and my Dad ended up doing the Rampart ridge trail into the wonderland, start and finish at Longmire. I was able to hold a consistent 45min mile all around, his watch said 6Mi I think the map says around 4.9 or 5. I was able to get up and go just fine the next morining, we did another 3mi hike with only 500ft gain the following day. I am finally transitioning back to work so things are looking up. Have gotten lots of reading done, and my yards flowerbeds and garden are doing excellent having this 6 1/2 mo home. @psathyrella I hope things are going well for you, keep up the good work.

Its been on my list for a few years, I am really surprised at how melted out it is right now. Good attempt and thanks for the update.

What about a registration question? would that do anything Like whats your favorite type of Piton.. I have no clue about technology so laugh away!

Nice Job Alex, I always enjoy your trip reports.

Nice good to have a plan. You didn't see anything that looked challenging and fun to do in that valley? I have never been, but plan to.

Contact Randy at his website, he is a great guy and might be able to get you one in time for your trip.

Excellent job, would also enjoy reading a trip report on it. Looks like quite the route finding challenge and the timing needs to be spot on. Did you find the pro placement sufficient or was everything rotted out?