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mrice1225

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mrice1225 last won the day on June 18

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About mrice1225

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    stranger
  • Birthday 01/10/1989

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    Seattle

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  1. High Ice movie

    "Everything you see on the screen is real. Eleven men and women were killed or injured on these mountains during the months it took to film High Ice." Uhhh what. This is great.
  2. Glacier Peak conditions?

    I use this site to get an idea for snow coverage: https://www.fs.fed.us/r5/webmaps/SierraSnowDepth/ By default it shows California but you can just scroll up to Washington to the area you want. I've found it to be pretty accurate.
  3. Yeah we expected it to be kind of rainy/snowy with maybe whiteout conditions for at least part of the day, but we got lucky and the weather was great all day.
  4. [TR] The Tooth - Standard 06/04/2020

    Nice, did this two Fridays ago, I thought the moat thing where you have to walk under the huge block of snow guarding the notch was interesting, and might get spicier as it melts out more.
  5. Trip: Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir Trip Date: 06/06/2020 Trip Report: Yesterday myself and two others climbed the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck peak. We started from the car around 3am, with the parking lot nearly full. After stopping by the lake to filter water around 5am, we got to the base of the couloir around 7am. As mentioned in other reports, the couloir was already in full sunlight. We stayed high and right to enter the couloir, which seemed like the correct choice. Our plan was to simulclimb the entirety of the route. As we started to climb the couloir, we encountered two moats. The first one was passable with some great ice sticks and high steps, while the second had to be navigated around with some very awkward rock moves. This ended the difficulties in the couloir and the rest was just steep snow. We climbed the couloir in two pitches, the first covering most of the ground up until about 300 feet from the notch, and the second to reach the notch. There were plenty of options for protection in the rock, and the snow was decent for vertical pickets. The start of the couloir; the moat is barely visible on the far left hand side. A party of two chose to bypass it with the rock step to the right. Climbing in the couloir: At the notch we led out towards the right about 150 feet, and then started moving upwards. There were a couple of thoughtful mixed moves, as well as an ice step to pull over. Overall the face seemed steeper and more exposed than the couloir. We headed straight for another notch below the true summit, reaching it in a single long simulclimbing pitch. At this point there was a party of two who were soloing who got stuck behind us, as the snow finger was relatively narrow. Once again, there were plenty of options for protection on the face in the exposed rock. Once we reached the notch below the summit, we let the party of two pass us and then led out to the far left, then right up a chimney type feature. This spat us out below and to the west of the summit still. We had one more short pitch with a few interesting fifth class moves to reach the main summit area. We chose to keep our crampons on for all this climbing as there were still some snowy spots. At the notch after the northwest face, climbing up and then to the right: Traverse below the final wall to reach the summit area: We reached the summit around 1:45pm. We ate some food and hung out for a while, then headed down the Colchuck glacier route. After some moderate snow downclimbing, we decided the glacier was in good enough shape to glissade down, even though some people were choosing to walk down. A kind of quick glissade (I'm slow) got us to the lake and our approach shoe stash at 5pm, and to the car by 6:45pm. Overall this was a really fun climb, and it's still in decent shape. The moats will certainly become more problematic as time goes by but it seems like you can bypass them with the rock step. The cold temperatures helped keep the snow from getting too slushy in the sun. Gear Notes: 3 pickets, 0.5-#2 C4s, rack of nuts, a few slings, one ice screw. We placed basically all the gear except the screw. Approach Notes: Stay far right once past the lake and follow snow bands up to the base of the couloir.
  6. This is awesome, plenty to dream about and research during the stay at home order. Thanks for putting this together!
  7. Damn that looks like it hurt. Glad you're alright! Great write up, thanks for posting.
  8. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 12/09/2019

    Great climb, interesting to see pics of it and the pass in the current low snow conditions. Thanks!
  9. Personal locator beacon. Glad he was able to mostly self rescue though.
  10. Booty discussion

    Brought a friend who was new to climbing on the tooth. On the first pitch, he just unclipped/took the draws off the first few nuts, then yelled up asking if he should be cleaning the gear. I said yes and he started cleaning. Maybe my fault for assuming he knew what to do... On our way out the nuts were gone, apparently some guys had grabbed them on their way down. I definitely blame my friend for that, not the guys who took them. Would have been nice to get them back but hey, got some new nuts out of it when we got back down.
  11. [TR] Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 09/21/2019

    Since I have it, here's a pic of Winnie's Slide I took on Aug 17th from nearly the same spot, a bit farther to the right I think. Still a little bit of snow but the rocks at the bottom are poking out.
  12. Proposed Large Scale Quarry in Marblemount

    Looks like they withdrew the applications for the mine and it's been called off for now! https://www.goskagit.com/news/local_news/marblemount-mine-project-called-off/article_dc799823-4fb3-5ce3-86c7-37578bdf278b.html
  13. Really enjoyed reading this detailed trip report, gives a great glimpse into how much effort and planning an expedition like this takes. Thanks!
  14. Buckner N face beta

    Here's a pic I took of what I'm pretty sure is Buckner from the top of Sahale on 6/30:
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