tstory

No reason Adams can't be skied enjoyably in early July. I skied it last weekend of June last year and it was still primo - carried less than a mile, skinned to the summit, SW chutes skied great. It likely would have lasted at least 2-3 more weeks in good conditions, longer with more hiking/more suncupped skiing. I feel like I say this all the time to people starting out in mountaineering, but I believe Adams (and volcano/backcountry skiing in general) deserves a little more respect than it often gets. I don't know what your mountaineering background is - maybe you've got years of experience. If so, feel free to ignore my advice. If not, I think you should be at least a little concerned about routefinding - it's not terribly complicated, but simple mistakes can have big consequences on a big mountain. You should definitely still be knowledgeable and concerned about the potential for wet avalanches. They can still happen in summer - especially on steep terrain like the SW chutes. And you should be aware that the hazards of climbing and skiing a big mountain aren't the same as those of skiing in a resort, no matter how challenging the resort terrain may be. A week before I skied it last year it was an ice skating rink and several people took big, high speed slides with serious injuries. I don't say any of this to be discouraging - it's an amazing ski trip, absolutely one of my favorites, and you should totally have a go at it. Just give the trip the respect it deserves. Also - no one else has really said it, but I know my feet/legs would absolutely hate me if I tried doing a 7k foot, 10 mile day as my first day ever, in rental boots no less. Maybe I'm a pansy, but a day like that still wears out my hip flexors and threatens blisters even in well-fitting, well broken in boots after I've put in 30+ days and 60k feet in a season. Skinning can either be a really efficient means of travel, or it can be extra exhausting, depending on your technique. I'd take some other folks advice and do a shorter, easier day a little earlier in the season to figure out the mechanics of things, then go out for a fun day on Adams in late June/early July.

Rough. My thoughts are with the family and friends of the victim and his partners. I was camped at Colchuck lake when the accident happened last year. I thought then, and I'm thinking again now, that I can't help but wonder if there are some factors at play that have lead to increased accidents in the Enchantments in recent years. The FS changing the permit season to May 15, has in my experience greatly increased the number of people headed into the area in early season. I think a lot of people with less familiarity with the area take the fact that permit season is open to mean that the hiking route is open for the season. Most of us know that Aasgard pass in spring is far more similar to a mountaineering route than it is to a hiking trail. Couple that with a 'scarcity' human factor (fueled by permits, short weather windows, and the non-stop bombardment of beautiful adventure photos on social media) and I think frequent accidents are somewhat inevitable. I'm not really sure what the proper course of action is, or even if there is one. I know I would bemoan the loss of wildness if someone went up and put signage or wands warning folks away from the skiers left side of the pass. Changing the permit dates back would just lead to more people, I'm afraid. It's a sad shame that this is such a frequent occurrence.

Black Diamond makes the Stance Belay Parka in womens sizes (not Belay hoody, two different jackets) which is comparable to a DAS or OR Perch in terms of insulation. Unfortunately the shell fabric is just standard Pertex with DWR, so not truly waterproof. Montbell makes the Thermawrap guide, which has 120g synthetic insulation in the body and a WP/B shell, but only in mens sizes...

It's helpful to think about when/where you plan to ski most. We really have two seasons of skiing in the Cascades. Midwinter skiing when you'll ski primarily powder (I wish) and other soft/unconsolidated snow, and spring/summer skiing when you're mostly skiing corn. A wider ski will be beneficial for most midwinter skiing. 100-105 is a good width for a daily driver in winter conditions. Good flotation for deep snow on the uphill and down, tends to float on top of crappy snow conditions, but not so wide that they're difficult to keep in the skin track or cumbersome on the down. I'm currently on some 115s and they're honestly a bit too wide for all but really deep days, will probably switch back to a 105 soon. Narrower will be better for spring skiing - lighter weight, better edge to edge performance, easier to drive in firm snow. I think 90-95 is a good width for those, that way you still have some flotation for when the snowpack hasn't fully consolidated. You can certainly get by using one ski for both conditions, I'd just buy for whichever conditions you're likely to encounter more.

If DPS doesn't work, send me a message. I'm eastside and have a pair you can borrow.

Sent you a PM.

Any of you guys looking to get out and climb somewhere tomorrow? Thinking Exit 38 or Index, but I'd also be game for Darrington or elsewhere.

Hi Sid, I climb at Stone Gardens in Ballard and would be interested in a regular partner for weekday climbing there. I also try to get out most weekends to go cragging, or into the alpine if the weather is nice. I climb around your same grade, and am also trying to train and climb more regularly and harder. Let me know if you're interested. Tobin

I'd be game for Saturday. I'd love to follow some mellow trad (7s and 8s are fine)or trade leads on moderate sport routes (lead 8s and occasional 9s, will follow 10s). Close to Seattle is good for me, I'd like to be back around 5. Give me a shout if you'd like! Edit: And I'm cool with bringing the pup, dogs are cool.

Great suggestion by Obwan on the Washington scrambles book. Tons of fun stuff in there, and it's helpful that she rates scrambles on two scales - technical difficulty and physical difficulty. To start out, pick ones that are easy in technical difficulty, that way you won't get in over your head but can still challenge yourself physically.

They make the Penguin and Condor, along with a groundsheet for both. You can use either as a single bag, then pair with the groundsheet and use as a double. It isn't as light as using the Flicker, but same general idea.

I was up this weekend. Conditions are generally good, the route is very direct from Hogsback to the saddle. Be aware of lots of thinly bridged crevasses in the large flat area immediately after the ridge above Hogsback camp. We punched through one crack, and heard from numerous other climbers that they did as well. Lots of people were unroped in that area, though it seems silly to me. Check here for a more detailed report - http://mtbakerconditions.blogspot.com/2016/05/coleman-deming-2016.html

Partner and I were bivying in the boulder field by Colchuck Lake Yesterday, 6/5 when we were approached by a hiker asking if we had a PLB or cell signal to call for SAR. Apparently he witnessed an accident where an individual was glissading down Aasgard Pass, lost control, and went over the large cliff/waterfall in the center of the pass. After going over the cliff, the individual apparently fell into a hole where the stream went under the snow. His partners searched the area but were unable to locate him. Helicopter was out around 12:00-1:00 AM overnight, did repeated low-altidude flybys. According to the news article they were using thermal imaging. Article here - http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2016/jun/06/hiker-vanishes-over-edge-in-alpine-lakes-wildernes/ All-too-similar to the accident in the same place a few years back. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201208800/Loss-of-Control-on-Glissade-Fall-into-CrevasseMoat-Inexperience-Washington-North-Cascades-Aasgard-Pass Condolences to his friends and family.

I'll second the thin softshell pants. I think they're one of the most versatile outdoor layers. I have an old pair of REI Mistral pants that I like, the OR Cirque ones are nice too. I think synth is generally preferred for belay jackets in the PNW, but down can work if you're more careful with your jacket and your weather windows.

This is awesome! Major props to you for getting out touring with your son! I keep hearing rumors (can't seem to place where from...) that manufacturers are building some legit kid-sized AT gear as well.

Sent you a PM.

Replying to both of you guys - I'm in Seattle and similar skill set, 27 and in good shape. Have some glacier experience, fair amount of rock experience but just getting into trad/alpine rock. Fair amount of BC ski experience if that interests you as well. Definitely planning to get out a bunch this season, Message me and we can plan to meet up.

Good catch, I'm in Seattle and so not super familiar with Mazamas. Kaskadian, if you're in Oregon I'd recommend you jump on that Mazamas course.

I think the most helpful thing to do at this point is to think about and try to answer the question 'What do you want to do in the mountains?' For example, is your ultimate goal to climb Mount Rainier? Or do you want to send a 5.12 at Index? Or do long alpine rock routes in the Bugaboos? The answer to this question can help point you in the right direction. It's ok if you don't know right now, part of being a climber is adjusting your goals as you try new and different things. That said, for an absolute noob, in my opinion there are a couple of options to learn the ropes. Option 1: Take a course like the Mountaineers Basic Alpine course or the Washington Alpine Club Basic Course if you are in Washington, or a similar course from the Mazamas in Oregon. Any of those will help you learn some basic mountain travel, glacier, and rock skills, and would be a solid foundation to build from. They also help you meet people who are in a similar situation in terms of experience and desire to climb. The problem with those courses, of course, is that registration for both is now closed for the next year (you seriously just missed the WAC one by two days). That is a hard pill to swallow when you want to get out and climb this summer. Option 2: Hire a guide service for a 'Skills seminar'. This is different than your average guided summit climb, and will set you up in a small group with a knowledgeable guide, with a focus on learning the skills you need to get around in the mountains. There are different courses you can take, and each will offer a different focus. For example, you could start with a glacier travel course, then later take a rock climbing course if you decide that is important to your development. The pro to this option is that you can quickly learn the skills you need from a reputable source. I did a glacier travel course with Pro Guiding and was pleased with what I learned. On the other hand, I didn't feel like I learned anything groundbreaking, and I probably could have picked up similar information from a careful study of FOTH. The other cons are that this option is pretty expensive, and it doesn't do anything for helping you find partners to climb with in the future. Option 3: Learn on your own/find partners to teach you. This can be a good option for some people and some subjects, but it comes with a certain set of risks. If you can find a knowledgeable, experienced partner who is willing to take you under their wing, you can learn a lot, fairly quickly, and for cheaper than Option 1 or 2. The trick is, you have no basis on which to judge if someone is experienced, and it is often hard to find such a benevolent mentor. If you have friends that climb, see if you can tag along on an easy day or to the climbing gym. Offer to buy some food or beer or pay for gas, that will make it more likely they'll accept. If you don't already have friends that climb, in my opinion you need to gain a bit more knowledge on your own before you ask someone to teach you. To that end, get some books and read up. I have a couple other suggestions as well - if you are interested in 'traditional mountaineering' like climbing Disappointment Cleaver on Rainier or Coleman-Deming on Baker, you should find some friends that like hiking and take a trip down to St. Helens. In late winter and early spring, that mountain is a great intro to mountaineering. It is non-technical, but provides an opportunity to climb moderate slopes on snow with an ice axe and crampons (if you want). You can rent gear at REI. Mt. Adams is a similar experience for a bit later in the year, just watch the weather. A word on gear - it is very tempting to drive to the closest REI and put 2 grand on the credit card to get outfitted with all the latest and greatest. Don't. If you are as green as you say, you have no idea what you want at this point, and if you end up buying a bunch of stuff now you will probably regret it. The things I would recommend you buy now are things that will serve you for years in the outdoors. I would recommend you get a lightweight, uninsulated pair of softshell pants. I practically live in an old pair of REI Mistral pants, something like those is perfect in my opinion. These will serve you for everything from spring and fall cragging to summer glacier climbs, they also work for backpacking and hiking, they last forever. Get a baselayer top of some variety, I like Patagonia Capilene 2 but anything will work. Should be lightweight and either synthetic or merino wool. Get a Marmot Precip jacket if you don't already have a lightweight rain jacket. They are like $70 bucks on sale and work in everything from summer thunderstorms to winter blizzards. If you already have hiking boots they will work for your first forays into the mountains, otherwise you will want to look into getting some mountain boots, but that is its own conversation. You can rent or borrow most other gear for now. If you get into climbing you'll discover the things your partners are using, you'll try things out and decide the things you like and want to buy. If you want to talk gear in the future let me know, its one of my favorite hobbies. Cheers,and good luck. Let me know if you have more questions.

Hi Jared I unfortunately have to work tomorrow, but I'm usually up for the type of skiing you've described. Generally free on weekends. Let me know if you'd like to get out sometime.

You pretty much nailed the same system I use. I've generally observed that NOAA point forecasts tend to have a 'wet' bias (meaning they often forecast rain when actual conditions are dry) while mountain-forecast tends to have more of a 'dry' bias, occasionally missing storms. What different conditions have you observed when using mountain-forecast? I believe that wunderground uses different weather stations, including more 'unofficial' stations run by enthusiasts. They also use additional models, whereas I think NOAA uses only one model(their own). This is all relayed second-hand, so weather experts feel free to correct me if I'm way off base. I've found wunderground to be really accurate for 'home' forecasts, but they lack the stations in the mountains to get really good predictions out there. Also - when using NOAA, did you know you can just go to the map and click the location you want the forecast for? It will give you the forecast for the specific elevation you clicked on. For example, this forecast is for 5600' on Heliotrope Ridge. The current weather may not be accurate, but the forecast is for this specific location. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-121.87898407722952&lat=48.78110458486057#.VlymBb95Hhk

+1 for BD Storm. I've currently got 3 scattered in different cars/gear kits, and I've found them to be bright, reliable, waterproof, and easy to use. Plus I've had good experiences with BD customer service if you have any issues. Totally just personal preference, but I've always found the various BD models to be more intuitive to operate then the models by Petzl, which I'm sure are nice as well.

Looking for a consistent partner to climb at Stone Gardens in Ballard. Hoping for 2-3 nights a week, some time between 5 and 8 PM. I'm up for bouldering, top-roping, leading, or any combination of the three. Currently climb 5.10ish or boulder V2, hoping to find a partner to train and push my grade with. Let me know if you're interested/looking for a similar thing. Cheers, Tobin

Haven't been up there for a couple months, but in September the glacier had receded so far up the couloir that it would have been more than half the way up on scree before getting to the toe. I'd be surprised if there is enough coverage now to make up for what was lost this summer, but I could certainly be mistaken.

I'm interested - I live in Woodinville and climb at Stone Gardens a couple days a week, although usually in the evenings. I'd really like to get out and do some cragging though. I'm available pretty much every weekend. I don't climb quite as hard as you, but I'm working up to it. Currently climb into the 10s. More comfortable following, but will lead 9s. I've had my eye on multipitch in Leavenworth and the North Cascades as well. Let me know if you want to meet up. Tobin