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Everything posted by tstory
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No reason Adams can't be skied enjoyably in early July. I skied it last weekend of June last year and it was still primo - carried less than a mile, skinned to the summit, SW chutes skied great. It likely would have lasted at least 2-3 more weeks in good conditions, longer with more hiking/more suncupped skiing. I feel like I say this all the time to people starting out in mountaineering, but I believe Adams (and volcano/backcountry skiing in general) deserves a little more respect than it often gets. I don't know what your mountaineering background is - maybe you've got years of experience. If so, feel free to ignore my advice. If not, I think you should be at least a little concerned about routefinding - it's not terribly complicated, but simple mistakes can have big consequences on a big mountain. You should definitely still be knowledgeable and concerned about the potential for wet avalanches. They can still happen in summer - especially on steep terrain like the SW chutes. And you should be aware that the hazards of climbing and skiing a big mountain aren't the same as those of skiing in a resort, no matter how challenging the resort terrain may be. A week before I skied it last year it was an ice skating rink and several people took big, high speed slides with serious injuries. I don't say any of this to be discouraging - it's an amazing ski trip, absolutely one of my favorites, and you should totally have a go at it. Just give the trip the respect it deserves. Also - no one else has really said it, but I know my feet/legs would absolutely hate me if I tried doing a 7k foot, 10 mile day as my first day ever, in rental boots no less. Maybe I'm a pansy, but a day like that still wears out my hip flexors and threatens blisters even in well-fitting, well broken in boots after I've put in 30+ days and 60k feet in a season. Skinning can either be a really efficient means of travel, or it can be extra exhausting, depending on your technique. I'd take some other folks advice and do a shorter, easier day a little earlier in the season to figure out the mechanics of things, then go out for a fun day on Adams in late June/early July.
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Selling Tenaya Masai in size 12.5. If you aren't familiar, they are very similar to a 5.10 Anasazi, but with a better fitting heel cup. These shoes are in near-new condition, worn for maybe a dozen pitches. Uppers and insides are clean and look new. Rubber is at 90%, lots of life left before a resole is needed. Includes a second set of laces, one red and one black. Pics here- http://imgur.com/a/9hp0y They retail for $140. I was thinking $90 or so.
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Rough. My thoughts are with the family and friends of the victim and his partners. I was camped at Colchuck lake when the accident happened last year. I thought then, and I'm thinking again now, that I can't help but wonder if there are some factors at play that have lead to increased accidents in the Enchantments in recent years. The FS changing the permit season to May 15, has in my experience greatly increased the number of people headed into the area in early season. I think a lot of people with less familiarity with the area take the fact that permit season is open to mean that the hiking route is open for the season. Most of us know that Aasgard pass in spring is far more similar to a mountaineering route than it is to a hiking trail. Couple that with a 'scarcity' human factor (fueled by permits, short weather windows, and the non-stop bombardment of beautiful adventure photos on social media) and I think frequent accidents are somewhat inevitable. I'm not really sure what the proper course of action is, or even if there is one. I know I would bemoan the loss of wildness if someone went up and put signage or wands warning folks away from the skiers left side of the pass. Changing the permit dates back would just lead to more people, I'm afraid. It's a sad shame that this is such a frequent occurrence.
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See my post for BD Contact Strap Crampons - Let me know if you're interested. Happy to ship at whatever speed you want - you pay shipping. tobinstory@gmail.com if you're interested.
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Used pair of BD 10-point crampons for sale. Moderate use, good shape overall. No rust, points are relatively sharp, and all hardware is good. Just reducing some redundancy in the gear closet. $75 pick-up in the Seattle area.
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question Women's Weather/waterproof Belay Jacket?
tstory replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in The Gear Critic
Black Diamond makes the Stance Belay Parka in womens sizes (not Belay hoody, two different jackets) which is comparable to a DAS or OR Perch in terms of insulation. Unfortunately the shell fabric is just standard Pertex with DWR, so not truly waterproof. Montbell makes the Thermawrap guide, which has 120g synthetic insulation in the body and a WP/B shell, but only in mens sizes... -
It's helpful to think about when/where you plan to ski most. We really have two seasons of skiing in the Cascades. Midwinter skiing when you'll ski primarily powder (I wish) and other soft/unconsolidated snow, and spring/summer skiing when you're mostly skiing corn. A wider ski will be beneficial for most midwinter skiing. 100-105 is a good width for a daily driver in winter conditions. Good flotation for deep snow on the uphill and down, tends to float on top of crappy snow conditions, but not so wide that they're difficult to keep in the skin track or cumbersome on the down. I'm currently on some 115s and they're honestly a bit too wide for all but really deep days, will probably switch back to a 105 soon. Narrower will be better for spring skiing - lighter weight, better edge to edge performance, easier to drive in firm snow. I think 90-95 is a good width for those, that way you still have some flotation for when the snowpack hasn't fully consolidated. You can certainly get by using one ski for both conditions, I'd just buy for whichever conditions you're likely to encounter more.
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Looking to borrow SNOWSHOES this wknd for my Mom!
tstory replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in Climber's Board
If DPS doesn't work, send me a message. I'm eastside and have a pair you can borrow. -
Sold.
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Size large, black, brand new with tags. Polartec powerdry, slim fit and good scuba hood. Very similar to R1. $55 Seattle pickup or add $5 shipped
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Bump for price drop. Yours for $300 for Seattle/Eastside pickup, or you pay shipping.
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Size 46 Scarpa Mt Blanc Pro, in near new condition. Bought in August, worn for one attempt on Kautz, soles and leather have very minor scuffing from that trip. All yours for $375 for local (Seattle or Eastside) pickup.
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Any of you guys looking to get out and climb somewhere tomorrow? Thinking Exit 38 or Index, but I'd also be game for Darrington or elsewhere.
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Hi Sid, I climb at Stone Gardens in Ballard and would be interested in a regular partner for weekday climbing there. I also try to get out most weekends to go cragging, or into the alpine if the weather is nice. I climb around your same grade, and am also trying to train and climb more regularly and harder. Let me know if you're interested. Tobin
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Seattle, local cragging this weekend. July 30/31
tstory replied to selkirk's topic in Climbing Partners
I'd be game for Saturday. I'd love to follow some mellow trad (7s and 8s are fine)or trade leads on moderate sport routes (lead 8s and occasional 9s, will follow 10s). Close to Seattle is good for me, I'd like to be back around 5. Give me a shout if you'd like! Edit: And I'm cool with bringing the pup, dogs are cool. -
Great suggestion by Obwan on the Washington scrambles book. Tons of fun stuff in there, and it's helpful that she rates scrambles on two scales - technical difficulty and physical difficulty. To start out, pick ones that are easy in technical difficulty, that way you won't get in over your head but can still challenge yourself physically.
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They make the Penguin and Condor, along with a groundsheet for both. You can use either as a single bag, then pair with the groundsheet and use as a double. It isn't as light as using the Flicker, but same general idea.
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I was up this weekend. Conditions are generally good, the route is very direct from Hogsback to the saddle. Be aware of lots of thinly bridged crevasses in the large flat area immediately after the ridge above Hogsback camp. We punched through one crack, and heard from numerous other climbers that they did as well. Lots of people were unroped in that area, though it seems silly to me. Check here for a more detailed report - http://mtbakerconditions.blogspot.com/2016/05/coleman-deming-2016.html
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Partner and I were bivying in the boulder field by Colchuck Lake Yesterday, 6/5 when we were approached by a hiker asking if we had a PLB or cell signal to call for SAR. Apparently he witnessed an accident where an individual was glissading down Aasgard Pass, lost control, and went over the large cliff/waterfall in the center of the pass. After going over the cliff, the individual apparently fell into a hole where the stream went under the snow. His partners searched the area but were unable to locate him. Helicopter was out around 12:00-1:00 AM overnight, did repeated low-altidude flybys. According to the news article they were using thermal imaging. Article here - http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2016/jun/06/hiker-vanishes-over-edge-in-alpine-lakes-wildernes/ All-too-similar to the accident in the same place a few years back. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201208800/Loss-of-Control-on-Glissade-Fall-into-CrevasseMoat-Inexperience-Washington-North-Cascades-Aasgard-Pass Condolences to his friends and family.
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Hey there - I have a pair of 183 Volkl Gotamas with Fritschi Freerides that would fit your foot size. G3 skins cut to fit as well. Skis are in decent shape, bindings in great shape, skins are near new, used ~5 times. Looking for $200 for the whole setup, let me know if you're interested. I can email or text pictures if you'd like. I also have have a pair of Scarpa Laser boots. They're probably a bit on the large size for you, more like a 29 - 29.5, but fit the bindings and are cheap. They have newish BD liners in them, and the shells have minimal wear. Looking for $40.
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Edit - Mocs are sold Size 9.5 Mocs in good condition. Worn ~10 pitches. Minor wear on rubber, not broken in/no stank/no wear on leather. $60 shipped, or make me an offer. Smith Dolen w/ Chromapop and Polarchromic lenses Top of the line Smith sunglasses. Don't fit my gigantic head. Black w/ Ignitor lenses. New in Box. Retail $250, thinking $100 OBO.
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If you're looking for something on the cheaper end of the spectrum, I have a pair of 183 Volkls with Fritschi Freerides that would fit your foot size. G3 skins cut to fit as well. Looking for $200 for the setup, let me know if you're interested.
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I'll second the thin softshell pants. I think they're one of the most versatile outdoor layers. I have an old pair of REI Mistral pants that I like, the OR Cirque ones are nice too. I think synth is generally preferred for belay jackets in the PNW, but down can work if you're more careful with your jacket and your weather windows.
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This is awesome! Major props to you for getting out touring with your son! I keep hearing rumors (can't seem to place where from...) that manufacturers are building some legit kid-sized AT gear as well.