Priti

But who is the boss, really? ... Nope our packs were the same weight, both when leading and following. On the upper 2K foot wallow, one 1.5L water bottle move back and forth between leader and follower. Last year we summited Denali, so we knew we dealt with 20K feet OK. We got the idea from the Smileys who had a similar schedule and felt the altitude but managed. http://smileysproject.blogspot.com/2015/06/denalis-cassin-ridge-classic-climb-45_25.html We asked our paying bosses, very nicely.

And here a GPS tracks! Cassin_Ridge.gpx And a couple extras: IMG_9713.mov IMG_9702.mov IMG_9659.mov

Trip: Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge Trip Date: 05/27/2018 Trip Report: We were also on Liberty Ridge this Memorial Day weekend, climbing from Winthrop Glacier to the summit on Sunday. If you were climbing it on Sunday, there might be some photos of you here! Posting in case y'all are interested! Us: Summit camp: GPS tracks: topoMapsExport.gpx Gear Notes: IPhone Approach Notes: East side to gain Liberty ridge

The area was around the red line area in the first link you sent. We were definitely very nervous crossing the blue line area to reach our own cache. It was the soft new snow that slid off a harder icy layer. Here's some photos of the crown of the slide.

I got a couple photos of you Peter. It was good to meet you!

Rad line! Great photos... What an awesome way to start off the season

Mmm onions, wolves, Darrington deep-water soloing... Oooh la la... Love the photos. Thanks for sharing!

Woohoo! Yeah, thanks Tim! How were the avalanche conditions?

Yeah! I agree, THIS is the spirit! You guys rock! It's too bad it didn't go this year, last year was a lot better for ice. I hope you get on it in the future! Thanks for sharing

Fun fun times! Type 1 the whole time! There is still tons of snow everywhere. Notes: I had expected it to take us less that 4.5 hours to get to the lake, even with the road closed. We were going fast with light packs, but maybe microspikes could have shaved off .5 hours? (not sure) People have done it (with the road closed) in 3.25 hrs. Maybe there was less snow, but kudos! I guessed it would take 6 hours on route, from the lake. It took 5.5. Sweet! I thought it would take <~2 hours to descend back to the lake, it took 1.25(ish) nice... Glissading is great! 4.25hrs back to the cars. There was some lolly-gagging. Evidence in the photos (full-body snow plunging, dying of laughter, etc) Conclusion: Need to make legs move faster, while not falling on face

Way to go Wayne! You are enduro-crimping with style and ease! I can't wait to climb face with your smooth grace.

Whoops, removed the B/C pic. The rock is definitely not that good! I think the descent would have been faster if the rock wasn't wet. I wish downsoloing 20 pitches of 5.7 sounded feesible to me...

Haha, now I will always keep my majestic pig inflated! You've got some beautiful and ominous clouds from the weather. Sounds like you climbed in rock shoes, carried your boots, aluminum crampons and axe. How much water did you bring on the rock climb part? I'm sorry your descent was so tough! Well done, with the crevasse navigation in the whiteout! Those crevasses really opened up since I was there.

Trip: Bugaboos - South Howser Tower - Beckey-Chouinard Car-to-car Date: 8/20/2016 Climbers: Priti and Jeff Wright Trip Report: South Howser Tower: 16pitches, TD+, V, 5.10 (A0). + Finger crack variation A humbling 28hrs car-to-car single push. 8000ft vertical, 10.5mi RT. We expected to get 'er done well under 24 hrs but with 8 parties on route with guides and slow clients, waiting at every belay station, not able to simul any pitches, stuck ropes and rappelling shenanigans, it took much longer than expected. Incredible route! 50 classic. 11:30PM Fri Aug 19: Start from Trailhead 1:20AM Sat Aug 20: Kain Hut 3:30AM: Bugaboo-Snopatch Col 4:15AM: Pigeon-Howser Col 6:30AM: Base of climb 7:10AM: Start climbing 7:15PM: Summit 11:00PM: End of rappels 1:30AM Sun Aug 21: Back at Kain Hut 4:00AM: Back at Trailhead Gear Notes: Single rack from .2-4, doubles of .5, 1, 2, 3 Single 60m rope, with ~10m of cord for pulling No bivy gear. 3L water total Approach Notes: Conditions: Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is still in, although cracks are opening. There is a rope for ascent/descent fixed at the col.

and we just want to go back for more!

Wow! Yes! So beautiful!!! Those peaks has such wild angles and inspiring names. This has been on the list for three years, some day I'll get out there. Looks like you guys had a super fun trip

Way to keep it fun! Love it!

Awesome job guys! microtraxions are pretty great. +1 to your advice on avoiding the lichen, and finding the easier way. Who is going to bring a new pencil up to the summit register?

Don't go chasing waterfalls.... Nice pics! Nice work!

Timeline I wrote while festering: 2nd July, Sat: Drove up to White Saddle AS. Weather bad, wait for tomorrow to fly. 3rd Sun: Flew out to Tiedemann Glacier via helicopter, departing @ 8:20, arriving on glacier @ 9:00. Over shot Rainy Knob a bit (make sure to point it out to your pilot) Hiked 1 mile back down glacier to Rainy Knob. Steep snow up to knob. Crevasse traversing in spotty, windy, snowy weather. Spotty visibility. A couple hard crossings above Rainy Knob -> Cauldron. Up steep ice section, bergschrund no problem. Then Wallowing, then rock, thin ice. Wallow + crawl up col. Camp @ Bravo Col. 4th Mon: My boots soaked. Weather windy & very snowy. Left around noon for Spearman Saddle. Very poor vis. camped at Saddle in rain/snow. Called White Saddle AS for weather. 5th Tues: Woke to good weather. Packed up and left by 6. Easy snow to bergschrund. Left one pack @ base. Tricky ice start over 'schrund. Simul in 2p, to Notch and beyond into chimney. Jeff led first pitch, tricky ice stemming + rock, fixed rope. I led squeeze chimney, like being birthed, upwards, with no motherly help. Continued up corner, on edges, no pro. Jeff followed, hauling pack. I led straight up the Chimney Direct, 3 pitons. Then led easy snow 2p to top. Beautiful weather!!! Simul rapped to Notch, so easy. Descended our route up. Not a good idea, w/o down climbing. Set up camp and slept. Weather still good. 6th Wed: Slept until 14:30. Weather good: Sunny, no wind, clouds in valley, but none high. Packed up to descend Angel Glacier -> Firey Route. Traversed over schrund on Stroll, icey in spots, good to have crampons and tools. Up couloir, ridge, down Angel Glacier, so easy, wallowy. Descended into clouds, whiteout, couldn't see way down. Easily found the one bridge over the first crevasse. Traversed in whiteout. Waited. Finally got vis. Found the one bridge over the 2nd crevasse. There were more gaps than ground. Tricky. Traverse to bridge to 3rd section. Kept going skiier's right to cross bridge to ice fall debris field. Traverse right down snow slope. Mostly home free! Hiking until midnight to Combatant Col. On & off vis. Would be very hard with no vis. 7th Thurs: Exhausted & socked in. Sleeping and hygiene. Called for weather. Supposed to stay bad. ....... bad storm that night. 8th Friday: Weather still bad. Went to look at rap stations for Combatant Col. Seemed ok descent, but would like better weather, continue to wait. Festering. 9th Sat: Weather lifted enough to see into the valley. Clouds still close at 3300m. Got a lift out, by heli @ 7:30. Flew around the mountains for pics. Drove back to Seattle. Of course all the photos we have were taken when the weather was BETTER THAN USUAL.

This line is super aesthetic and fun! I would definitely recommend it!

Sweet sweet pictures, great report and it looks like a really nice cabin! We stayed in Canmore in a run-down townhouse. But it was warm (in some rooms), had hot water (scalding) and a stove (two burners worked). It's the ice and good company that matters. We got on a bunch of things, with the theme being, not doing the last pitch. Grotto Falls (to warm up, His and Hers are a little thin, didn't do) The Professor (wet, freezing cold that day, last pitch looked great, ran out of time) Cascade Falls (crowded, super fun in the sun, ran out of time for last pitch) Haffner (great fun) Guinness Gulley (fat, not too wet, ran out of time for last WI2 pitch) The Junkyard (tons of stuff to do, soloing around) Louise Falls (crux pitch looked too hard for me to lead. The other parties backed off too) NEW YEARS! (Drink all the maple syrup!) Moonlight and Snowline (super picked out, not wet at all, cruiser) I wish I could go back and get on all of those climbs you did! Guinness Gulley Guinness Gulley Guinness Gulley Guinness Gulley The Professor Falls The Professor Falls Louise Falls Moonline and Snowline Grotto Falls Haffner

Nice write up Jaime! It was great to climb with you guys.