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Priti

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Everything posted by Priti

  1. I was so surprised to see other people on it too! I thought we would be totally alone, not two other parties on route! I think maybe more people get on it than I thought.
  2. Ward Robinson and Jim Walseth did the first ascent of this route. “On the third day cigarettes and coffee were all we had left. On the summit ridge we found snow patches and we brewed up a couple of times to keep ourselves going. During one such break we named the route All Along the Watchtower. For the record, it's the Jimi Hendrix version” - Jim Kennan Harvey did the first free ascent of the route. “Not only was the traverse virtually featureless, it was wet. Determined to climb it free, Harvey started by aiding across the sweeping arch, using his tee shirt and chalk ball to dry key footholds. Once the pitch was “prepared,” he lowered back to the beginning for a free attempt. He almost got through the crux on his first try, but fell when a small nubbin broke. He succeeded- just barely - on his third try, “grunting and thrutching” the entire way.” - Fifty Favorite Climbs
  3. Nice report! I want to tag Sherpa Balanced Rock
  4. Thanks to Jenny Abegg and Sarah Hart for the amazing beta sheet! Thanks to Mark Westman for great beta! Thanks to Tim Banfield for the amazing aerial shots of the Howser towers. It was a pleasure to get to climb such an incredible route, with great company (Dane, Allie who we met on route and my great partner Jeff). I'm thankful for the wonderful weather, and an understanding team at work.
  5. It can't be said enough: Jeff and I are so blessed, and so thankful that we got to climb Fitz Roy! Nothing is ever guaranteed, and certainly not alpine climbing in the Fitz Roy range. Everything kept falling into place! And it was spectacular!!!! 🙏 🤘😍 . . . Timeline: Thursday: Planning for a climb on Mt Hood. Jeff calls from working remotely in Charleston. Let's go to Patagonia! Friday: Asked for time off work. Plane tickets look reasonable. Wait, where are our passports? We bought tickets anyways. Saturday: Jeff arrives in Seattle. So do our passports. We buy some more gear! (and pack) Sunday: Planes. Work from plane Monday: Planes and working remotely from BA, AR Tuesday: Plane to El Calafate, bus to El Chalten, say hi to MF Seba, call in to work meetings and grab a bite with Scott, Sami, and Lauri Wednesday: Hike up to Lago de Los Tres to check out conditions. They are cold, wet and windy. Okay! Thursday: Hike from El Chalten to Paso Superior and camp Friday: Approach to La Brecha and camp. The rock looks a bit wet, but the weather is great! Saturday: Climb! all day. all night. some wetness, some ice, but it's okay Sunday: sit for an hour and watch the sunrise on the summit of Fitz Roy. Rappel Sunday night: hike all the way back to El Chalten. No sleep Monday morning: Catch our shuttle to the airport with 20 minutes to spare. Finally sleep on the shuttle Monday: Fly out, work from plane Tuesday: Arrive in Seattle! (go to work)
  6. Here’s a couple photos from the weekend Bergschrund C8CB0840-F52D-4CC4-AA6A-AD38B25DB30D.MOV Summit! we only pulled out the rope for the last ice step. I got deluged with spin drift! 🤣🤣🤣
  7. Nice, good work! Thanks for sharing
  8. Gorgeous photos! What a place, what a peak! Thanks for the TR!
  9. Trip: Pasayten Wilderness - Cathedral and Amphitheater - SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak and Finger of Fatwa on Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheatre Mountain Trip Date: 08/31/2018 Trip Report: Ethan and I climbed the classic SE Buttress (5.10a) on Cathedral Peak on Saturday Sept 1st and The Finger of Fatwa (5.11c) on the Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheatre Mountain on Sept 2nd. The SE buttress was super enjoyable, following an obvious aesthetic line up the peak, on beautiful, sunny rock. One other party was in front of us, and let us pass at the headwall. The Finger of Fatwa follows a striking line, up a steep splitter .5” crack and traversing a set of two wild left-pointing roofs. I'm curious who else has climbed it since 2011 when Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington put it up. I don’t think this route gets much attention, judging by the amount of moss. But it should get done more! It’s so cool! We didn't get the red-point, but if we cleaned it up a bit, I think it would go next time! Belay under the roof Pulling the roof: A little bit of bouldering capped the trip! The weather was questionable on Saturday, but cleared up around 10am. We hiked out in a light snow on Monday, that cleared up to blistering heat by the time we reached the trailhead. Saturday sunset: Sunday sunset: Gear Notes: Wires, Doubles from tips to #2, single #3, #4 Coffee every damn morning! Approach Notes: 8-10 hours approach via Andrew's Creek Trailhead ... From Upper Cathedral lake, a 15-45 minutes approach
  10. East Twin Needle, Himmelgeisterhorn and Ottohorn are some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done any where! Doing the traverse from Terror to Ottohorn would be such a good line.
  11. But who is the boss, really? ... Nope our packs were the same weight, both when leading and following. On the upper 2K foot wallow, one 1.5L water bottle move back and forth between leader and follower. Last year we summited Denali, so we knew we dealt with 20K feet OK. We got the idea from the Smileys who had a similar schedule and felt the altitude but managed. http://smileysproject.blogspot.com/2015/06/denalis-cassin-ridge-classic-climb-45_25.html We asked our paying bosses, very nicely.
  12. And here a GPS tracks! Cassin_Ridge.gpx And a couple extras: IMG_9713.mov IMG_9702.mov IMG_9659.mov
  13. Trip: Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge Trip Date: 05/27/2018 Trip Report: We were also on Liberty Ridge this Memorial Day weekend, climbing from Winthrop Glacier to the summit on Sunday. If you were climbing it on Sunday, there might be some photos of you here! Posting in case y'all are interested! Us: Summit camp: GPS tracks: topoMapsExport.gpx Gear Notes: IPhone Approach Notes: East side to gain Liberty ridge
  14. [TR] Chair Peak - North Face 12/16/2017

    The area was around the red line area in the first link you sent. We were definitely very nervous crossing the blue line area to reach our own cache. It was the soft new snow that slid off a harder icy layer. Here's some photos of the crown of the slide.
  15. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    I got a couple photos of you Peter. It was good to meet you!
  16. Rad line! Great photos... What an awesome way to start off the season
  17. Mmm onions, wolves, Darrington deep-water soloing... Oooh la la... Love the photos. Thanks for sharing!
  18. Woohoo! Yeah, thanks Tim! How were the avalanche conditions?
  19. Yeah! I agree, THIS is the spirit! You guys rock! It's too bad it didn't go this year, last year was a lot better for ice. I hope you get on it in the future! Thanks for sharing
  20. Fun fun times! Type 1 the whole time! There is still tons of snow everywhere. Notes: I had expected it to take us less that 4.5 hours to get to the lake, even with the road closed. We were going fast with light packs, but maybe microspikes could have shaved off .5 hours? (not sure) People have done it (with the road closed) in 3.25 hrs. Maybe there was less snow, but kudos! I guessed it would take 6 hours on route, from the lake. It took 5.5. Sweet! I thought it would take <~2 hours to descend back to the lake, it took 1.25(ish) nice... Glissading is great! 4.25hrs back to the cars. There was some lolly-gagging. Evidence in the photos (full-body snow plunging, dying of laughter, etc) Conclusion: Need to make legs move faster, while not falling on face
  21. Way to go Wayne! You are enduro-crimping with style and ease! I can't wait to climb face with your smooth grace.
  22. Whoops, removed the B/C pic. The rock is definitely not that good! I think the descent would have been faster if the rock wasn't wet. I wish downsoloing 20 pitches of 5.7 sounded feesible to me...
  23. [TR] Dorado Needle - SW Buttress 8/21/2016

    Haha, now I will always keep my majestic pig inflated! You've got some beautiful and ominous clouds from the weather. Sounds like you climbed in rock shoes, carried your boots, aluminum crampons and axe. How much water did you bring on the rock climb part? I'm sorry your descent was so tough! Well done, with the crevasse navigation in the whiteout! Those crevasses really opened up since I was there.
  24. Trip: Bugaboos - South Howser Tower - Beckey-Chouinard Car-to-car Date: 8/20/2016 Climbers: Priti and Jeff Wright Trip Report: South Howser Tower: 16pitches, TD+, V, 5.10 (A0). + Finger crack variation A humbling 28hrs car-to-car single push. 8000ft vertical, 10.5mi RT. We expected to get 'er done well under 24 hrs but with 8 parties on route with guides and slow clients, waiting at every belay station, not able to simul any pitches, stuck ropes and rappelling shenanigans, it took much longer than expected. Incredible route! 50 classic. 11:30PM Fri Aug 19: Start from Trailhead 1:20AM Sat Aug 20: Kain Hut 3:30AM: Bugaboo-Snopatch Col 4:15AM: Pigeon-Howser Col 6:30AM: Base of climb 7:10AM: Start climbing 7:15PM: Summit 11:00PM: End of rappels 1:30AM Sun Aug 21: Back at Kain Hut 4:00AM: Back at Trailhead Gear Notes: Single rack from .2-4, doubles of .5, 1, 2, 3 Single 60m rope, with ~10m of cord for pulling No bivy gear. 3L water total Approach Notes: Conditions: Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is still in, although cracks are opening. There is a rope for ascent/descent fixed at the col.
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