SeanO

Hey Raoul, are you sure you don't have the Helium? I think the Lithium only comes in 0 degrees... maybe you have an older model that came in 15 degrees. Interwebs specs say the Helium is about 34 oz, while the Lithium is 44 oz. I have a Feathered Friends Vireo, but friends have been happy with the FF Osprey (30deg). Weighs 25oz, and the rating is conservative. An alternative is the Western Mountaineering Megalite, at 24oz at 30 deg. rating. You really can't go wrong with FF or WM. If you truly have the Lithium at 44oz, then you could save well over a pound going with these bags. Not cheap, but accurate ratings and top quality.

Really awesome pictures Kevin. Thanks for skiing with this noob at Alpental and picking up all my shit after that faceplant/yard sale... best of luck in school too.

Cool video, thanks for sharing! You'll get it next time.

Answer 1: Because Eddie Bauer's HQ is located in Bellevue. Answer 2: Because Bellevue likely embodies everything about the target market for FA gear and RMI clientele.

I haven't used my Reactor extensively in the field, but like keenwesh said, the efficiency of the stove makes the extra weight justifiable. Not to mention it's super wind-resistant and comes with a larger cup by default. Melting snow for a few hours on Rainier with a less-efficient stove was incentive enough to get the Reactor. Sucks when you're tired and just want to sleep. I do like the JetBoil as a more multi-purpose stove, great for trips where you're not melting lots of snow, or when you're backpacking. It weighs nearly half as much as the Reactor too. Might have to pick up one of them as well.. I've also looked into the hanging setups, such as the mod for JB hanger to Reactor (which apparently isn't very stable). I may have to play around with something...

So it sounds like a 30m rope is insufficient if you chose to tie butterfly knots along the length of the distance between you and your partner, because they will jam in the lip of the crevasse and the fallen climber won't be able to prussik out of the jammed rope. DPS, since you've tried this method, do you always tie butterfly knots, or no? I've heard about this technique only from this forum. It seems good for stopping a fall into a crevasse, but otherwise, it sounds like 30m is totally sufficient for a rope without butterfly knots.

I think they meant to say Bluewater. I also picked up a 10mm double dry from them during the Second Ascent sale. I think it's good that you lean conservatively when it comes to glacier safety, as Gene and Kurt are reinforcing. I'm rethinking my fast 'n light philosophy...

Agreed on the clothing in general -- the Peak XV by all accounts is a great jacket. But this recent foray into camping gear is very lackluster compared with alternatives, even marginally more expensive alternatives, and that's the main thrust of the thread.

This is a good conversation, I'm glad we're discussing it. I'll be hopefully practicing crevasse rescue in the next couple weekends and hope to dial this in for myself. If we go by Gene's numbers (and 30 feet between climbers since a 30m rope is 98.4 feet), I'm assuming 30 feet in coils isn't enough to execute a rescue. How many feet is necessary, and also how many is recommended? It seems that 30 feet would be plenty for a Z pulley, assuming the arresting climber isn't right next to the crevasse. Let's say they're 5 feet away from the edge. They place a temporary anchor, move up about 10 feet and place a bomber anchor, then return 10 feet and add a prussik and pulley, then start pulling the climber out. Assuming a few feet for knots, the rescuing climber would still be left with some (admittedly little) extra rope. A few obvious statements: this situation would be really difficult and suck no matter what for 2 people. But are the numbers way off? This is essentially the consolidated advice from other climbers and I'd like to get your opinions (Kurt and Gene).

Thanks for the input Kurt. Would you say that the additional difficulty when performing crevasse rescue warrants carrying a single rope for glaciers, in your opinion?

What exactly is your objective in climbing a couloir, as opposed to any other mountain feature? Most of the interesting places to climb a couloir in late April/early May will still have substantial snow in them, so you should bring crampons and an ice axe just in case. A couloir at 40-45 degrees might have a scary enough runout to justify protecting the climb. It sounds like you might want more of a steep hike if you're not looking for the possibility of something technical. Couloirs are usually by definition at least a little technical and steep. If the road is mostly accessible, you could have a good hike up to Colchuck Lake, then climb the col to the saddle between Colchuck and Dragontail. There's not really significant danger if you fall because the runout is relatively gradual. But you'd still need crampons and an axe.

Any particular reason you want 60m? 30-40m is generally considered sufficient for 3 people, accounting for extra rope in the event of a rescue, or 2 people with coils. Also, you could probably go thinner than 9mm; more like 8mm because it won't be taking major falls.

I picked up the Neo Air All Season a few weeks ago and have been impressed with it so far. 19 oz for a regular, with an R value of 4.9 and beefier 75d fabric to resist punctures. The new Neo Airs also have a great non-slip coating on them that's a huge improvement from previous years. I slept well on mine at home a few nights, will test it out on the snow this weekend.

You guys had to make it complicated... Great information, thanks for the reasoning. To clarify, I'm not looking for a dedicated ice climbing tool, but rather a more general tool that can function as a mountain axe for plunging/boot belays and be paired with a hammer tool if necessary. As in, something that can climb short ice sections in a pinch, but also be good for the general stuff. The intention is to do routes like the TC on Dragontail, Liberty Ridge, etc. I want it to be general enough that if necessary, I can lend out my Raven to a friend for a weekend and have something for myself to use on a general route like the DC. Montypiton (Curt?), thanks for the thoughts and the experience that went behind them. My Raven Pro is 65cm, and I have found it to be too long on a recent steep snow trip (50+ degrees), perhaps because I'm 5'10". I got tired having to raise my arms above my head to plunge it securely. So I'm guessing between 55-60 is good for that. At any rate, the new Air Tech Evo seems to be the perfect combination of the Sum'Tec and Venom -- slightly curved shaft, a little more than the Venom but less than the Sum'Tec; a classic curved pick that also climbs ice well; T rated shaft and pick, which is better than the Sum'Tec and the Venom; AND it comes with a grip near the spike (like the Venom) as well as an optional slider like the Sum'Tec. Very compelling... Any comments on the Easy Slider feature?

Thanks for the responses everyone. Sum'Tec vs. Grivel Air Tech Evo... any comments?

Thanks DPS. Do you find that the Sum'Tec is a bit too curved for secure self-belays/plunging? I checked one out at Second Ascent the other day and it seemed nice with the adjustable hand rest, but the curve seemed more pronounced than the Venom's.

I've currently got a Raven Pro for general mountaineering, but plan on doing some steep snow climbs this summer. I'd like advice on something that can be decent for general mountaineering (plunging, self/boot belays), but also work for steep snow/some ice, and if necessary be paired with a real ice tool for something like Liberty Ridge. Does it exist and what do you recommend? Looks like a few options are the Summit, Sum'Tec, and Venom. What length do you recommend as well to pull double-duty, especially if it's to be effective for self-arrest? Thanks.

Wow, that's crazy. Very sad for the families. That said, they shouldn't have left the nitro in the sun...

Awesome TR as usual, and great pictures/videos!

Very diplomatic indeed. If there have been some shoddy packs coming from Graham and Co., I hope the customers were taken care of. None the less, interesting reads, thanks for your thoughts.

Thanks Dane, that's helpful. Reading between the lines, you're not a big fan of Cilo?

Really awesome pictures! Congratulations!

I think you'll find it's difficult to convince an experienced person to be a completely inexperienced person's mentor. They are sacrificing their time, potential safety, money, and other things to climb with you, as they likely would be climbing something else. Saying "I really want to climb" is great, it's cool that you're enthusiastic, but you should show a lot of initiative and have established your basic skills before asking for someone to invest their time in a relationship that may not go anywhere. I don't mean to sound harsh, but realistic -- and I'm currently following my own advice. I joined the Mountaineers and I'm currently in their basic climbing class. I now some people frown on the Mounties, but I'll be damned if I haven't gotten way more than my money's worth in the class, and developed good relationships to boot. You learn how to be a well-rounded basic (safe) climber, and if you're working a job and have a life outside of climbing, the pace of the course is perfect. You also have to test out of skills to continue in the course. And yes, they've failed some people. If you have lots of time on your hands, join BOEALPS because it's basically the Mounties course but compressed into half the timeframe (3 months). Both classes have already started, so my recommendation for you is to buy Freedom of the Hills and read it cover-to-cover. You may also be able to find another inexperienced person who wants to learn with you. One other thing I'll say is that you need to consider why someone would want to climb with you. At the very least they need to feel a margin of safety climbing with you, so you should become proficient in things like knots, rappelling, belaying, and all of the other basic things aside from actually sending a route. My two cents, having been in the same spot as you last year.

The fill power is 850, but there's no mention of fill weight (in oz). For example, the Feathered Friends Ptarmigan -25F bag lists 850+ fill power, with 35.5oz fill weight. I agree, the Alchemist pack doesn't look bad, I'd like to see one in person.

Yeah, I don't understand who they're being marketed to either. There are so many better options out there that I sorta feel like I'm missing something... I find it ironic that someone like Ed Viesturs would put his name on these products. Even as a "conventional" mountaineer, he had Mountain Hardwear build a special lightweight tent for him; he used to share one lightweight sleeping bag with his climbing partner or used a half bag, etc. I just can't imagine a guide choosing to use the FA gear. Lack of fill weights on the down bags is disconcerting. Looks like they're really trying to hit the budget segment with a $500 -30 down bag. Doesn't look like they're EN rated so you're likely going to get cold well above -30. Dubious at best to think that you can buy a new -30 down bag and stay warm at that temp when competitors charge $200+ extra for a bag of equivalent rating with listed fill weights.