JDCH

Howdy- Hoping to grab a dawn patrol and climb the tooth before work early Friday Morning. Assuming the winter trail is still in decent shape? How much time should I assume for the approach for 2 relatively fit dudes in slowshoes? Any help is appreciated, so I'm not too late on a sunny friday morning... Thanks!

I know that the gate is open for the indefinite future, according to a ranger I played phone tag with. Just not sure about the sleeping part, and wondering if its easier to ask for forgiveness than permission...

Is this allowed? I'm looking to leave Seattle Thursday night, with a plan of heading up to Muir on Friday AM. Would be nice to get a jump on acclimatizing and spend the night in my car at the parking lot. Is this allowed? Is it enforced? Is there another option? Thanks!

Howdy- Looking to take advantage of the fine weather that is coming up this weekend for a potential early season ascent with some buddies. Anyone been up that way and take a gander at the ingraham direct? Is it in? How's the snowpack? Anything I should be concerned about? Muchas gracias. James.

EB makes one: http://www.eddiebauer.com/catalog/product.jsp?ensembleId=42737 Not sure what you are planning on using it for, but this one is half down, half synthetic, and only $200. While I haven't personally used it, I've seen it, and it's pretty sweet.

Thanks gene, yeah, I figured the parking lot wouldn't be plowed, I should have been more clear, I was asking if I could sleep on the side of the road, sounds like I can! Thanks! And of course, I will have a plan b. always should have a plan b in early season n cascades

Also- Last question -- does anyone know the status of the campgrounds out there? Can I just park on the road at the TH and camp in the back of my truck and then climb and head home? i climbed it 4 times last summer, i just realize that it will be drastically different in mid april and want to make sure I don't get up there at 7pm friday night and spend several hours trying to figure out where to sleep without cell coverage. Any help is greatly appreciated

Awesome, thanks for the feedback, definitely going to head out there and at least give it a shot! Would it be worth bringing two tools/a tool with a hammer instead of a mountaineering ax to clear ice from cracks to place gear? Thanks!

Howdy! Wondering if anyone has any experience with early early season ascents of Liberty Bell-- Just the standard Beckey Route. Basically, I'm thinking about heading up there this weekend if the weather holds, and I am trying to imagine the conditions on the route, (other than cold) ie, snow on the route, ice on the route, don't do it. etc any advice or pointers would be lovely, Thanks! James

Howdy- I have been slowly but surely been getting comfortable with aid Movement techniques using a good ol fashioned backstop over the last year. It's come time to try it in real life, on rock, with gear. AS I am sure it will be vastly different than climbing a backstop... It would be really awesome if someone needs a belay slave/partner to get out on some easier beginner aid routes. I'm up for anything, hoping to progress to be able to lead on aid comfortably by the end of the summer. Let me know if you are up to take me out and show me the ropes.. About my rock skills: Been rock climbing about 5 years. Lead 5.9 on gear, 10 on sport. Follow about the sameish at this time of year. Prefer Alpine. Thanks, James (also- I'm in seattle but will travel!)

Check your PMs!

I know, Strange place to request this, but hey, if you don't ask, you don't get. Trying to be paperless at work, and save the world, etc etc. Looking for any 11' macbook air, and hoping for sub $400. Let me know if you have one kicking around that you're not using... :[]

Kiddie cliff at alpental is still in as of Saturday. Bring double ropes though, long distance to the closest anchor tree.

well that doesn't sound like fun... perhaps I should sleep in and try and climb something on the kiddie cliff instead... I know that was sort of in when I climbed there last saturday. Thank you

Has anyone even been close enough to take a gander?

Wondering if the NE buttress or N Face are in shape for a saturday jaunt. let me know if you have any pertinent info thanks!

Anyone seen/heard of this thing yet? "The RescYou is an innovative rescue device in the event of a fall into a crevasse. It can be used to rescue yourself or other climbers. After braking a fall into a crevasse, the device is attached to the climbing harness (self-rescue) or a fixing point (rescue of another person). After this, the two rope clamps are clipped to the rope and the compact six-fold pulley, which connects the two rope clamps, is operated. This allows the person who has fallen into the crevasse to be rescued as quickly and easily as possible. The RescYou eliminates the need for complicated installations and maneuvers in the event of a crevasse rescue, making this groundbreaking device an essential piece of equipment on any glacier expedition." http://www.mammut.ch/productDetail/221001160_v_5501/RescYou.html Could be interesting..

Ok, so millenium wall is out, and I take it that no one has been out to strobach? What about chair? has anyone been on or near the ne butt or n face?

Nope, the cave has a bunch of fixed pins and tat for an anchor. There used to be a smaller cave at the same height, but to left of the huge cave. That smaller cave collapsed some years ago - I seem to recall hearing something about there being bolts there. Actually... I was there last weekend as well. There are the fixed pins on the left. and the bolts are still there on the right next to the big blob of ice. The bolts are placed accordingly for the window route, which is also in amazing condition right now, and the fixed pins are for the "standard standard route" Amazing route. My old stompin grounds. Great to visit, and great to see other cc'ers getting on the awesome ice out east!

Anyone have any news on strobach?

Anyone been out to the millenium wall?

Howdy- Anyone been out to Strobach recently? Looking for ice options for the upcoming weekend, and wondering if anyone has any insight here.. or if I am limited to the kiddie cliff. Thanks, James

HOWDY! Tomorrow I turn 27. Unfortunately, I have work. Fortunately I have a good boss who understands my affliction with ice. Therefore, I would like to get on some ice tomorrow morning before work at alpental. Standard Dawn Patrol Action. I was thinking like 4:30 or 5 leave Seattle for Alpental, get there by 5:30 or 6, climb until 9 or so, and then be back to Seattle for work by 10:30 or 11. No particular goal in mind, just want to swing some tools and climb something. I lead WI3 comfortably, and WI4 sketchily. Will follow WI5 and M6 comfortably. Let me know if you are around and up for some early morning ice! Thanks, James.

Not sure what you mean... But I made two etriers from webbing, used my metolius PAS's for my daisies, brought out a rack of Quick draws, and aided up the backstop! I think you might be asking how I attached the rope to the backstop... Quick draws! let me know if you have more questions!

And now I have a great drytooling practice spot just down the road... Still elicits strange looks from the local vagrants when I start unpacking my gear and ascending the backstop though...