B Deleted_Beck

Nobuddy on this mufuccer runs?

Yea, I remember that. Boyer's is the fastest time I've ever heard claimed. Absolutely balls out tearing ass, what's the fastest you could get down, skiing directly off the summit? Maybe 6-7 minutes? That'd put him at 1:55-1:59ish ascent time, 1/3rd better than my fastest time, and I believe there are athletes out there that are 1/3rd better than me... so it's perfectly believable.

24 hours later, the Pearly Gates are dropping huge wet chunks and the snow is bottomless slush... Times, they are a changin'

I have no doubt it's been done significantly faster than I'll ever do it- not claiming records here, just looking for a few guys to compete with this summer.

I descended most of the upper snowfields searching in vain amongst the rock features, thinking it surely must just be snagged on a rock somewhere, hiding, scared, praying I'll find it and tuck it safely back into my pack. I couldn't.. the 60 degree sun-baked snow was sloughing off out from under me, and I had an appointment to keep back in town... I had to quit.. I had to go.. Oh jacky North Face is basically out of service for the year, I realize, but if anyone happens to be slogging up the Coop or skiing down below and finds it... It's probably my single most favorite piece of kit. I don't have emotional attachments to gear, but I fucking love this jacket. Thanks for the memories, jacky... I will never forget you. (que Witney)

3:35 today... not incredibly impressive. 2:45 was my goal, but sustained 25-30mph wind in your face, bottomless slush, and frequent barrages of wet ice will slow a guy down. Right around 5:30 car-to-car, which includes 45 minutes descending the North Face desperately trying to recover my fucking jacket. Jacket not recovered. Super bummed... man I loved that jacket. These times are sure certainly beatable... who's gonna do it?

Howdy What's your run pace? 3-6 miles? 9-12? -Ben

Howdy How about a little friendly competition for this summer? See who's got the best time by September My best time, car-to-summit, from last year: 2:59 That was the Old Chute in soft summer snow. Gonna see what I can pull out of the Pearly Gates this Friday... I think I'll break 2:45 easy. But obviously haven't done it yet! Fast car-to-car times would also be interesting to see, though I won't be posting any numbers till when/if I get my splitboard system really dialed in.

I'm gonna start doing laps out there after works meself. If you see a white "Columbia" truck on the road, I'll have my pink rope anchored off on a .8 - .10 close by

Howdy Little beta request for Mountain Jefferson... I want to knock over Jeff Park route, but have a time constraint, and have concluded that I could get 'er dun in under 24 hours if I bivy at the top of the moraine at 7400, carry my shit to the top of the headwall, drop ruck, go tag the summit, retrace the north ridge to my stuff at the top of the headwall, and descend the NW ridge to the PCT. Having never experienced the notorious exposed ridge above the headwall- How down-climbable will it be for a competent rock climber? Should I take a little piece of 30m twin for a rap? Is there anything to anchor? Or has the technicality of this section been way over-stated and I'll have no problem scrambling up and back down? Thanks gentlemen -Ben

Are you a roofer?

Awww shit yea... I think this weekend's gonna be the official unofficial 2013 Hoodtona 500

After I switched to Verizon, I had reliable enough signal that I could actually skip the office and climb and still "work"... if that tells you anything. Below the treeline, it's hit-or-miss... but above treeline, the major three will be pretty reliable. I think it also depends heavily on your phone, though- I get WAY better signal with my iPhone than I did with several other Verizon phones.

She must be a shitty singer.

Get your solo permit in advance.. I waited till the day of, and I didn't get out of the Ranger station until 14:30..... killed my trip.

Howdy Too big for my wife! Basically like-new.. would sell for $150 + shipping or trade for a sz 2

Wut.. I'd be fuckin pist if sum dumb ass mufuckin bees killed my shit.

This season I sported a pair of Rab Latoks.. 3layer eVent, 3/4 zip, no pockets, less than a lb.. Perfect alpine shell. I loved em for the few climbs I wore them on (super shitty weather), but then I changed up my whole system and switched to soft shell pants. Last year, I rocked some TNF hivent Guide pants.. Also pretty breathable, but heavy. Full zip was nice, but I generally either wear them or don't... Not a lot of taking on and putting off on-route. I'd rather save weight and stick with a ventable 3/4. The Latoks are light and compressible enough for emergency use, and my experience with Rab's eVent has thus far been very positive- two jackets, pants, and a tent... Well thought-out kit. Great stuff. Definitely recommend both Rab and eVent.

What are your spex? I will assume breathable... so 2 layer or 3? Pockets? Full zip? Will 3/4 zip do? Ankle-only? Will you be wearing them as a main top layer, or just have in the pack for emergency use? For ice climbing? Alpine? Hiking? How much does weight play? Waterproof breathable pants range from $75 - $450+, depending on the features you need.. most stuff that RETAILS under $200 is 2-layer, so it may not be as effective, and it definitely won't hold up as long as it's 3-layer counterpart. I personally think Gore Paclite is the only way to go for 2-layer stuff, if you really want/have to go 2-layer. Precip and Torrent and similar seem to wear out after a few months regular use. If it's just an emergency shell that'll stay rolled up in a stuff-sack for 99% of it's life, this is an option.. but if you're actually gonna use it, it's not. Here's a good place to start. Then buy local... http://www.rei.com/search?cat=40005464&cat=40004586&hist=cat%2C40005464%3AMen%27s+Pants%5Ecat%2C40004586%3AMen%27s+Rain+Pants

Seems there's a hell of a lot of variation from year to year on NEBC... anybody have any idea what it looks like right now?

Anybody know if this thing ever formed up this season? Last I heard it was shittay, but we've had some weather since then. Any other good moderate mixed climbs still in right now? Taking the next couple days off... must climb something righteous

We went up.. seeing the sustained 40mph winds and loose snow, not being able to differentiate heavy spindrift from small loose snow avis, we opted to bail from the East side. My partner was itching for some ice, though, so we shot up into the crater and dug a nice little windbreak right under DKH. Went to sleep to strong winds and clear skies... woke up to stronger winds and total white-out. Packed up and bounced around 6 this morning. Navigation by GPS only at times... couldn't tell up from down. Fuckin' bullshit. I saw glimpses of other climbers hastily going down, tracks leading to and fro strange places and directions, and know at least one early party went up the Hogsback before the weather really turned... Really hoping we don't have any disasters today. Where was dem clear skies they promised us?

If we'd ever get a good couple-week cold-snap down here, I fully intend to run a hose up to the roof and get a drip going down the backside of my house.. Alas, we haven't had one cold or long enough in a few years. '10, I think? Were in the teens for like three weeks in November through December, if I recall correctly?

...and raining down rock and ice