The Ospray

Mostly in the early to mid 90's, then off and on since then. Then a friend and I did quite a few of the aid routes back in 03-05 when we where training for a harder aid route on the capitain. Alot of that was done in shitty weather just like Ivan. My socks still have not dried out Cheers

true 'dat - though likely it woulda come w/ even more poison oak scars on yer nutsack i look forward to fucking w/ it in summer - i'd climb other places then beacon more often if'n the good lord helped me win the lottery Right on Ivan! I might be interested in doing a little aid with you this summer once its warm and dry Thinking about another El Cap solo (as much as I say I shouldnt) so its always nice to brush up a bit. Cheers

Whats your problem dude? I said keep up the stoke. I aided plenty in the rain at Beacon back when I was into that sorta thing. Would I do it now, hell no. I've aquired other hobbies and like to save the suffering for the alpine and big walls not the crag. But yes it could have easily been climbed on a sunny and warm summer day

Or do one of the hundreds of other activities that do not involve suffering in the rain and cold at Beacon! You guys are nuts! But hey weve all been there. Keep up the stoke. Cheers

You sawed-off arrows? Couldn't these be Cn placements of some sort? I agree whats a sawed-off arrow? I've heard of sharpening them for soft rock but why saw one off? As far as the angles go, if this is the same climb I did there are definatly some of those places where an angle would work and a nut or cam wouldnt. Small openings in the crack where an angle fits perfect almost like a drilled angle or some such, but no room for the wire or stem of a cam or nut. I didn't have cam hooks or ball nuts then but these seem like a possible option.

Right on guys! Those are some rad pictures of a GREAT place! And a nice FA to boot!

Is that two cracks left of Wild Turkeys? If so that is for sure one of the better nailing routes I did at Beacon during my aid spree there. Never was sure about a name though. Cheers

Holy Crap! Where you on some A5 or what? Thats about 12 minnutes per meter! Seriously tho what route at Beacon where you on that took that long? Aid or free climb? Cheers

I'd like to try it on before I buy so I'll kindly pass on the offer.

Hell ya Pete! Beers this week for sure!

Hey Ben, thats awsome Saint Helens has a climbing gym now, I grew up there and never thought that would happen! Cheers Todd

I might take that MH jacket off you, I think I'm going to be headed to Bend within the next week or two, could we meet up for a transaction?

What where you guys sport climbing? Whats up Pete! It's been a couple years, I'm back climbing a lot right now we need to tie in together soon. Thinking an ice trip might be in order? Todd

Funny you guys care so much about pictures, when we didn't even top out on the thing. As I said before my partner brought his camera, not my film POS. We started climbing by headlamp, and I followed the second pitch with the camera most likley in my pack. I kinda doubt theres anything more than a couple of rappel shots and some from the base afterwards. Think what you want, but we had an awsome day, while I havent heard much of anything getting done from the naysayers? I know another party did something on Cape Horn so we where not the only ones out. When and if he e-mails me the pictures I will post them, but with the reactions on here I'm leaning towards the Charlie Porter style approach to things. Cheers

I have been curious about this as well He makes some sweet packs! I belive those are "Osprey" ;-) I thought some may find my name funny on this site due to the excessive amounts of "spray" on here.

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes. Cheers Todd Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill. i was always a fan of thomas in the new testament - come out to beacon saturday and have a beer w/ us! Already got some plans for this weekend and next, but maybe we can have a beer out there sometime before it closes. Feb 1st right?

I don't get why you have to be so doubtfull of my post. Just because you don't know every climber in the Portland area does not mean I am lying about my climbs. Or is it that I have to earn my rank on this site? No wonder it took me seven years to finally register as alot of the people on this site come of off as total ass holes. Cheers Todd Thanks for the praise Dave and Bill.

I'd say the approach took us about an hour and twenty minnutes in the dark, but thats after doing it probably 10-12 times prior. There are lots of areas to mess up the approach. I'm working on drawing some sort of a map to help future parties.

Plaidman if your the guy I've seen at the crags, and in pictures you've probably got enough energy to clear the place of the oak by your self. Keep it up!

Also my partner said he would e-mail me a couple of pictures he took. When he does and if I can figure out how to upload pictures I will.

After seeing how fat Mt Hamilton was this year, my ice partner and I skipped work to drive out there early yesterday morning to give it a go. We really had no intentions of topping out or much less getting on the ice, but we did manage to climb partway up the second from the left drip in the last photo posted. We climbed in two pitches up to the small shadowed lower angled middle section in the picture. Starting in the dark the first pitch was about WI3 and the second WI4 with maybe a + the ice was mostly solid but the higher we got the more the sun came out and the worse it got. Above it looked much harder and the ice did not look as fat, even if it was colder I highly doubt we would have continued anyway. My guess is it could be some real WI6 or something, not that I know anything about that. All in all though a killer adventure for any hardman awaits, we had tryed this same climb twice about 10 and 12 years ago never getting higher than 50' so getting 200'+ off the ground was a real treat. The crux is probably the approach and getting to the traverse ledge at the base of the flows, as all the climbing (to our high point) was trival as far as ice goes. If we had not have sussed out the approach many times before we would have never made it in the dark. Anyone looking for beta please let me know. Cheers Todd

Holy crap!

This is an awsome little crag, but yes the poison oak is horrible. My friend and I tryed to deal with that problem a couple years back but never had any results. Mabey we could organize a poison oak clean up party? I'm sure if 10-15 people where involved with tyvex suits and the like we might be able to make the place a bit more tolerable. Anyone? Todd

Both crags are kinda like the Lyle crag, a little taller though and sometimes steeper. But not the easiest appraches. Mt. Defiance has some a couple of harder sport climbs, these are what I'm wondering about. If you poke around in those areas on some of those trails you should be able to find them. If it ever gets warm enough I'd prolly be game to show you.

Do you know anything? I know they are pretty secret but it seems like some guys on this site are definatly in the know.