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The Ospray

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Everything posted by The Ospray

  1. Saw your gear after an ascent of the chimney to the true summit of the Alpenjaeger this summer. Was wondering what the story of that was! Definatly the wrong way, next time top out on the true summit of the Alpenjaeger. Possibly one of the cooler summits in Oregon, just an awsome flat grassy perch. Not very hard but about 5.6/7 X to get on top due to dirtyness. I doubt anyone had climbed it in the past 15 years as the rap anchor had completly disintigrated in some spots. You should have scoped the line a little more, had you just walked back a little bit to the west you could have seen the blank overhanging wall above. Good on your for rescuing your gear, I'm sure it could have easily tempted other parties as it did my partner. But a little more inspection showed the summit of the Alpenjager as the true way to go. Either way a great place to spend the day doing some moderate "climbing" as the chimney is really just 4th class. But the pitch and a half to get up to it and the Alpenjaeger summit all have some moderate 5th class climbing. Cheers
  2. Bill, that picture looks great. Thanks!
  3. Very cool Ivan! Thanks for sharing. Not much into aid climbing anymore unless it's on the Captain or something big like that. I did a nice solo on the Captain this fall so I think I've got my aid fix for the next ten years, haha! That route looks like a great possible free objective. It appears to have plentiful amounts of fixed gear and never looks too steep. What do you think? Might have to check that out if it ever drys out once the rock opens up again. Cheers Todd
  4. Way cool you're getting out then Osprey, I stand corrected! I was curled up next to the fire for sure:-) Are you Tim's friend then? Have you climbed with Ivan yet? He must just live down the street from you if you're in Washogal. They do say that the Arena was caused by a dynamite blast when the railroad was looking at leveling the rock. Sure thing I'll go and resize the old pic Osprey, and if anyone wants to look at the big version I think you can either double click it - or just go to the Oregon Historical Society or OSU, both places are suppose to be selling full sized prints of it. (thanks to Jeff Thomas for that happy and interesting tip) Nice pics Steve, but it looks too warm to be recent? Don't think I'm Tims friend, maybe though, don't know any climbing Tims though. Also never climbed with Ivan. I always wondered about the arena as it just has a whole differnt feel than the rest of Beacon. I've read this site for years off and on and finally for what ever reason decided to join and ask a few questions. Cheers Todd
  5. Checked this place out the end of October. Don't remember the exact routes that we climbed. LOTS of loose rock but TONs of bolts makes this place worth checking out. I think one of the routes may have had 30 bolts in 45-50 meters!!!! Mostly a 5.8 bolt ladder. So you don't have to be a choss master to get to sample something a little differnt. I give mega props to who ever equipped all of those route because thats A LOT of money in bolts and hangers and I'm sure dubious amounts of cleaning!!! But any of you ethically minded folk will probably want to steer clear of this one. 2.5 out of 5 stars. The setting and the adventure all make it worthwhile, but the somewhat grid bolted nature and crap rock somewhat detract from the area. I think we did your route Lodestone. Nice job!
  6. I lost a yellow Camalot at either the Shellrock Mountain Crag or Lyle Crag on Aug 5th. I know its late but I'm wondering if someone on here may have picked it up. 6 pack and karma points await you. Thanks Todd
  7. Woah thats cool, so the "Area of Terror" area was quarried out? I aided Silver Crow and Axe of Karma with a partner back in 2005. Those where both fun aid lines with a few tricky sections and a little bit of fun nailing. I also think we estblished some what of a new route or variation over in that area. We had a nice little phase of aid back in 04/05. Fun for sure, but Beacons all about the high end free routes! Cheers.
  8. Much better with pictures! As your writing is a bit tricky to understand. Bishop is great, I'm jelous!
  9. Haha seen I've seen guy on the right at Beacon and vaious places hes a nut!!! Super stoaked though. Classic!
  10. Cause it's massively bad weather and they are getting on something, even if it's aid, while you are at home next to the fire, curled up like a rich mans cat. Acctually I was just a couple miles north of them cleaning some new free lines at one of my new crags. Ya it was a crappy day, but I know there are better lines there to aid then a classic 10b free pitch though. I soloed Iron Maiden in a moderate drizzle (luckily no wind) but this was a really fun aid route at Beacon, and you don't risk messing up a free route. I don't think it has gone free yet has it? Oh you should resize that picture it would be a lot easier to look at a touch smaller. Cheers.
  11. Has any one climbed at these crags exstesivly? Looking for more beta on some of the harder routes. Thanks Can send me a PM.
  12. Is'nt the first pitch of Flying Dutchman only 10b? Why on earth would you be hiking in there in the dark to climb one pitch of 10b?
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