lightnfast

Lame-o. I one spent shall we say, too much time on a route I started way too late in Eldo years back in the middle of winter. Getting back to our car frazzled and tired at 9p, I started my car and started driving to the gate to find it...closed. I lowered my head in defeat, and was blown away when the gate started to open. Then again, if they installed such a system they wouldn't be able to fill the coffers as easily.

Hit up Mist, again, early this morning. As above saw headlamps below Crown Jewel at 6:40am-ish. I climbed a pitch and went to work. What's better than that? Except for more pitches...and less work Looked like they were descending as I drove back to town around 7:45, at least I could see someone at the belay atop pitch 1 but no where else. Yay ice!

Scratched around in the gullies right of the main Mist flow. It was fun, the usual climbs were super soft and not quite ready. Looks colder out by Hood River; can anyone point me towards potential ice up there?

Best of luck to you both!

Spectacular and inspiring. Great effort.

I'm very interested in helping with the replacement of anchors in the Pacific NW. I've been climbing for 13 years and want to do my part to payback the climbing community. I'm looking for someone who is actively involved in this process so that I can learn the correct methods for such work. I have a strong background in acccess issues, and understand that anchor/bolt replacement can be a very complicated issue and am more than willing to do my homework before heading out and causing a ruckus. Shoot me an email at lightnfast@gmail.com if you have anything scheduled around Portland and would be willing to share their knowledge and have a helping hand. This goes for route development/cleaning as well. Thanks, Scott Robertson

^^^ I'll second that.

First of all it's great to know that the Hunter is loved by many; hard to find a cheaper, better cure for what ails you. Fireball, in my experience, is for people who want to say 'I drink whiskey!' but can't really drink whiskey. But I have a certain affinity for Hot Tamales, and Fireball is essentailly a liquid version that also inebriates me, so I'll take a pull if offered one. In my experience Canadians are too busy climbing harder than me, downplaying their achievments, or just generally being hard to bother with checklists (but I freaking love lists).

Great report. The Crown must go down next freeze... You guys must have been the first party at Mist on Saturday yeah? We showed up behind you (two orange-jacketed bearded monsters), saw the same guy on Crown, wondered the same thing. Fun climbing on the right of Mist, fun on the left too, ropeless is the way to go over there, with the old Sword of Damocles hanging above, whiched was wildly sculpted from the wind. Ice Tally for 2013/14 Season: # of Days Portland: 3 Bozeman: 2 Canmore: 2 Portland is winnning?!

Possibly down for a Leavenworth or Snoqualmie trip...same ability level, WI4 leading, rack, etc... Never climbed ice at either, but spent plenty of time in Leavenworth, climbing for 13 years, guiding, etc. I won't get you killed and could possibly save your ass. That's a pretty fitting description. WFR too... On that note, any good online (or print) resources for Snoqualmie pass ice routes?

For the time being...taken at 5am Sunday the 26th of January.

Was there the past two days. Both sides are fat as all hell and were getting fatter today. Roped up and climbed the left side, placed 3 screws, belayed up high to the left, escaped left and downclimbed. Ice was thick enough for a v-thread but didn't have the tool... The right side was fun also, long traverse right through crazy 4" diameter iced over slide alder then easy down climbing. SO AWESOME!

Yeah Mist was looking very thin today; wouldn't recommend going out there...