mhux

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Backbone Ridge Date: 7/26/2012 Trip Report: After weather shut us down about a month ago, my friend Brayton and I got after it on Thursday. First alpine rock route, fun climbing and pretty committing! 22 hours car to car, not bad for a first experience like this but we weren't rushing by any means. A great time in the hills by all means! I've already written it up here, check it out: http://verticalism.blogspot.com/2012/07/dragontail-peak-backbone-ridge-59-iv.html Gear Notes: Borrowed a (new) #5 and #6 for the offwidth from Sol, thanks a ton! Otherwise a medium rack up to 3", doubles in finger sizes. You might want crampons for the snow hike down to Aasgard pass, or maybe just an ax to control your glissade Approach Notes: Straightforward, the only snow is crossing the moraine to the base of the route and coming off the summit col to Aasgard pass Heinous mosquitos from the lake, to the summit, back to the lake- bring as much repellent as you can

Is a 5am start even considered alpine? Strong work, that's obviously the best way down...props!!

Sorry to revive this thread (especially since there's a duplicate) but- can I descend Aasgard in sneakers yet? Trying to avoid bringing crampons/boots for a Dragontail climb... thanks in advance!

Awesome pictures!! Props on the summit as well.

Super sick! Nice work...I think you meant you brought 5 ice screws and placed 3? Think it'll shape up a little more with this weather for the coming weekend?

Anyone know what those speed bump type things are on the road? Definitely man made, I figured it was so people wouldn't rally the road (which is both a good and a bad thing)

We were up there early saturday, from the top of snowdome we ascended directly to the berg under horseshoe rock, then headed climber's right until we could cross it...so that rightward bootpack is probably ours! By loose sketchy cliffs do you mean (what I believe is) the Elliot glacier headwall? Looked suicidal to head that way... The skiing from snowdome looked infinitely better than the southside (much better snow and no crowds), guess that's for another day...good on you for skiing that, summit or not!

Trip: Mt. Hood - Sunshine Route Date: 7/14/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the Sunshine route with two friends yesterday, it was fun and pretty easy with some steep slushy snow (up to 50deg) and a near-sketchy 'schrund crossing. Descended southside and got a ride back around to our car, worked out well since some weather came in as we were coming off the top! Since its mostly a one-up of the southside route, I won't bore you with the details, but you should know the berg might be a bitch (or impossible) to pass in the near future. If you do want the details, they're on the link in my signature. All in all a fun outing, thanks for the good times Conor and Brayton! I can't seem to upload pictures (or at least they don't show in the preview), so they're on flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/72705010@N04/ Gear Notes: Brought two tools for the steep snow, but it was too slushy to protect Approach Notes: Tilly Jane not Cloud Cap (unless the cooper spur trail also departs from Cloud cap, it was dark)

when I'm home from school in salt lake mountain project or utahclimbers are both great resources

Anyone know NF gullies conditions (especially the right one!)? I know its a little late in the season, just wondering if the steps are in/how terrible the berg is (and the preferred option to cross it). Thanks!

definitely a troll

nice work! bailed from backbone on sat but didn't bring an ice ax to make a snow climb out of anything...good to see you had a solid backup plan!

Sorry for the late response, I've acquired one (whether it fits or not!) thanks for all the offers though, you guys rock!

Planning on backbone ridge this weekend, neither my partner nor I have a piece that big (the #5 for the offwidth- I'm not soloing it!)...don't really want to drop ~$100 for a cam I'll barely ever use! So, I was wondering if anyone has a #5 c4 they'd be willing to lend me for the weekend- I could pick it up friday night and drop it off late saturday (anywhere from Salem OR to Leavenworth). I can give you an ice tool or crampons or something for collateral in the meantime... Or if you have a used c4 #5 you're willing to sell- that's not as ideal but it might work. I realize its a little out there but I figured I would at least ask! Thanks in advance

Sorry to breathe life into this old thread but can anyone tell me what conditions are like now/will be this weekend? NOAA says chance of rain, I was planning backbone ridge but don't want to drive 6 hours to get rained out

Too awesome. Thanks for the link!!

Nice work, that's a burly solo for your first time on route!

depends who you ask, with 10m (in reality a little less) between 3 people that doesn't leave much for setting up a crevasse haul...you should be fine with a 30m though

I'd say a single 30m will do you right, if you're really worried about it (and not so much about weight savings) double them

any report on the conditions of the hotlum-wintun chute up top? Icy most likely?

You could ski down, beats a slushy posthole any day...though it might trade one specific knee problem for another EDIT: Doubt that helps, but I do know what you're talking about...its sketched me out a few times but probably nothing to worry about- just take each step deliberately!

Da Toof?

Good work buddy, definitely looks like a great day out! how was tilly jane coverage/postholing?

didn't even think of that...nice! plus the larger wired hexes droop anyway

Hey heavier is good for training...right? Nah I think the college kid wielding the burly old school rack might just puzzle people...