mhux

Sorry for the late response, I've acquired one (whether it fits or not!) thanks for all the offers though, you guys rock!

Planning on backbone ridge this weekend, neither my partner nor I have a piece that big (the #5 for the offwidth- I'm not soloing it!)...don't really want to drop ~$100 for a cam I'll barely ever use! So, I was wondering if anyone has a #5 c4 they'd be willing to lend me for the weekend- I could pick it up friday night and drop it off late saturday (anywhere from Salem OR to Leavenworth). I can give you an ice tool or crampons or something for collateral in the meantime... Or if you have a used c4 #5 you're willing to sell- that's not as ideal but it might work. I realize its a little out there but I figured I would at least ask! Thanks in advance

Sorry to breathe life into this old thread but can anyone tell me what conditions are like now/will be this weekend? NOAA says chance of rain, I was planning backbone ridge but don't want to drive 6 hours to get rained out

Too awesome. Thanks for the link!!

Nice work, that's a burly solo for your first time on route!

depends who you ask, with 10m (in reality a little less) between 3 people that doesn't leave much for setting up a crevasse haul...you should be fine with a 30m though

I'd say a single 30m will do you right, if you're really worried about it (and not so much about weight savings) double them

any report on the conditions of the hotlum-wintun chute up top? Icy most likely?

You could ski down, beats a slushy posthole any day...though it might trade one specific knee problem for another EDIT: Doubt that helps, but I do know what you're talking about...its sketched me out a few times but probably nothing to worry about- just take each step deliberately!

Da Toof?

Good work buddy, definitely looks like a great day out! how was tilly jane coverage/postholing?

didn't even think of that...nice! plus the larger wired hexes droop anyway

Hey heavier is good for training...right? Nah I think the college kid wielding the burly old school rack might just puzzle people...

whippets? not a substitute but (maybe) the best of both worlds

good one...yeah I guess that's what it comes down to- haters gonna hate, as they say

My dad gave me his old 80's trad rack recently, and seeing solid-stem cams with non-colored hexes and stoppers sketches my friends out- they'd rather climb with newer color coded stuff. But- most of this gear has minimal to no use- only one cam has ever been fallen on, and I've put new slings on the hexes and cams. The carabiners don't have any rope grooves or other signs of wear, and I've been told they've never been dropped or beaten up either. So...what's wrong with climbing with old (but solid!) gear? (Besides the obvious- its heavy, solid stems are a (sketchy) bitch to place horizontally, non-wired hexes are also a pain..) Might as well suck up the weight and not spend $$$...or should I?

Did you dig a pit? Looking to go up tonight, hopefully stuff has slid or consolidated

I was wondering this the other day too...for me, taping helps my shitty crack technique, but its a pain once your hands are sweaty and the tape starts getting loose. On the other hand, though, I once scraped my skin down just enough to make a scabby pussy lesion on my hand, crack climbing sucked after that and it took forever (!) to heal. Probably shitty technique though, again...

That video is super sick! Hope there's one coming for the Dickey venture...

Or Marblemount or Newhalem, right? Might as well be smack dab in the center!

Hardshells are generally going to breath poorly no matter what, but in their limited actual use...probably not worth the $$$ difference. Try for one of the new 'breathable' hardshells (dryQ, membrain), I have a marmot shell like that and I find it bomber yet rather stretchy and breathable...but to each their own.

There's actually a town called Boring, right outside of Portland...just passed it today on my way to Hood, actually! Doesn't look like a meth town though... Seems most of you like the city life, but what's wrong with a small town if you have a job and are super close to climbing? (I'm not just talking about Index)

So the general consensus is Leavenworth, if you could get work, and maybe Mt Vernon on the westside? What's Wenatchee like? I bet there's a good amount of jobs to be had (I didn't say careers) in Leavenworth, considering its a tourist trap, right?

Wayne why do you say Spokane? Northern Idaho and Canada are close?

We slept through our 2am start plans and ended up starting around 8am, (I turned around at the top of the palmer to ski perfect corn ) but by the looks of 8 or so people on the hogsback at any given time I'd say yeah it was a lot better. Plus actual freezing temps the night before...