lazzara

Good enough. 10-30cms over the variable crust over wet snow from early in the last storm. Hand shears showing just enough reactivity to think twice about steeper windloaded pockets with consequences. Skiing decent - some surprise crust where scoured. Sun definitely out and working the snow a little on solar aspects, but any thin MF crust would most likely losen up with continued solar in the coming day. Any day the sun is out in the Baker Zone seems worthy enough . .

I've got the Coast ice book but still not sure how far past Bridal Veil this climb is located. The approach notes make it sound like 10k but . . . ?

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Outdoor Research Alti-gloves -- very good condition - $50 size medium I carried these as back-up, super-warm, super-light gloves on summit days on Rainier, Baker and many backcountry ski missions. Removable liners, easy drawcord system to both cinch and open gauntlet opening around wrist. Minimal use, none in technical terrain. Check out photos . . . Photos @ http://bellingham.craigslist.org/spo/4213735562.html

Last I heard it snowed about a foot up there (9/23-24). With sun the south side of the ridge might melt out but the north side will hold snow (unless we get rain up high?) Another consideration is the 2nd pitch corner of the approach pitches might be wet and mungy for sometime. On my last trip up there (9/19 - with about 3" on the north side)it seemed like you can climb large portions of the ridge directly on the crest or on the south side - maybe just a bit harder than the line most folks take that veers off to easier climbing on the north side of the ridge much of the way. Or crampons might help . . . We gained the rock island on the west side about midway between the toe of the rock island and the top of the snowfield. Did a short rap in to the moat to a ledge below the gully. Picked up anchor at the end of the day. I'm sure a bollard would work too . . .

+1 for the FF Vireo Rated 25F for the lower and 45F(?) for the upper - it's made to use with a big puffy in cold conditions and sans when it's warmer. Opposed to a 1/2 bag, it actually comes up and slightly over my shoulders (if you get it long enough - check dimensions) so I sleep better than in other minimalist bags. I think 1.0lbs and it only takes up 1/2 of an OR dry stuff sack - puffy, etc goes in other half. A better visualization would be to imagine your sleeping bag packed down to the size of a large grapefruit. I actually use this bag on winter multi day ski trips with a phat puffy - just eat lots of butter before you nod off and sleep in a snow shelter . . Only downfall is no zipper - when it's truly warm out (like 60F nights in Boston Basin) you can't unzip and drape it over you. It's in or out.

Though I can also attest to good times climbing and hanging out in MT, I'd have to say that climbing ridiculously steep limestone between tropical swim sessions, $0.50 Pad Thai and spending time with non-North American women is probably a bit more awesome than Bozeman.

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Thinking Bulletheads East and some other 5.10/11a pitches in that area. Mid-morning to sundown. It's 1:45 from my house to the chief with no issues at the border and minor traffic on the 1 (getting on that road at Canada Way). I'll drive. You have no issues crossing the border. Sushi on the way home. If you live up there would gladly meet you along the way.

Are the East Ledges rap's still in? Word has the NPS axed the well established rap line west of the West Ridge gully. The rap line on Torment got the chop too it sounds like. Sounds like a mess up there. Have fun!

I just climbed that route on Friday and compared to last year (and the year before) there is way, way less snow over the ice in the upper portion of the chute. If you look at the MORA blog for the Kautz it actually shows ice in the upper chute in early May. Before our climb it looked snow covered from a distance but ended up being only 12" or less of weak snice over better ice. I would try to sink pickets but they bottomed out 1/2 way. Some excavation revealed decent ice underneath. Long screws were hard to sink for the last few cm's and seemed very strong. Would the weight of a couple of slightly longer screws really prevent you from climbing the route? There's plenty of other places in one's kit to shave weight . . .

Yup, 250 to be exact but I'm flexible. I'm in Bellingham. Thanks!

So no going down-ey? Nice work - see you in March.

If it makes you feel any better, your ropes are still up there - saw them from afar skinning back up to Herman Saddle today. They were hanging mostly in the rock to the left of the route so not too frozen into snow or ice from what I could tell. It does look one is blown part of the way up the wall while the other is hanging down near the start of the route. Cheers on that route - looks super, super cool. And steep.

I've read somewheres that this pitch is 80m. Any chance you could do it in one pitch with a 70m?

Good enough to not make it a pain. If you fell skiing on that hard snow in one of the steep spots you would get hurt for sure . . .

Just got back from a tour/climb up the Northwest Couloir and down the White Salmon. While the skiing blows from midway on the WS down (the Upper Curtis was firm but fun and Winnie's was scary icy), the climb up the NW was super fun hard snow/neve cruisin' If your looking for someting to do to take advantage of the high pressure and get some practice low daggering on your tools, the NW and probably the N Face are super fun right now (i.e. no wallowing).

Sweet

Thanks DPS - sounds a little to sloggy up there now. I'm sure it'll get cold for reals eventually . . or not

What's this route all about? Can only find a few photos and that it's on Snoqualmie . . . an ez'er NYG? Beta? Anything?

Mike - is it the size of that "11+" wide crack next to the "chimney" at Momentum? Try the 'cobra' - the whole back of your hand (or wrist) on one side of the crack and the tips of you 4 fingers (no thumbs) on the other side - like a super big cup. Kind of like a hand bridge. The other hand does the same thing but opposite. Squeeze the thumb even though its not hitting anyting. High hand stays high, low stays low. Same for the feet. If you cross one hand or foot over the other you screw yourself and fall. Torque the shit out of your feet.

Morris is definitely not your average real estate agent . . .

Nice work team - maybe with Sunday's 8000' freezing level/rain it might still be good next week. I'm still shopping for a partner for the repeat . . . What were your approach and descent times?

No pants - only jacket . . .

Granite Gear Vapor Flash Pack (size Regular) - used once Retail: $180 to $200 Sell: $100 Patagonia Guide soft shell jacket (Red, size medium) - lightly used Sell: $50 Brooks Range Eskimo Rescue Sled - new Retail: $160 Sell: $110 Brooks Range Snow Study kit (for those taking a Level 2 avi this winter)- new Includes: organizer, digital thermometer, 200cm ruler, crystal card, inclinometer, AIARE field book and ski guide card set. Does NOT include: loupe (magnifier), brush, pencil Sell: $80 Pics readily available via email - don't feel the need to clog of the photo post with a bunch of gear Cheers . . .