lazzara

You know, we walked in there thinking the NW Couloir might be a wallow, so we had three or four other things in mind around the Eldorado-Inspiration-McAllister Glaciers, the S Face being one of them. There's a handful of objectives up there that with some snow on them become alpine-y enough to be worth the walk. We just chose the best one based on what we found that also suited our motivations. Plus we couldn't turn down alpine climbing in T-shirts . . .

Went for the long walk up to the Inspiration Glacier on Monday with Allen T. A smattering of snow in Roush Creek prior to gaining the ridge. Up to a foot of snow through the talus and slabs to gain the Eldorado Glacier. Travel conditions mildly tedious - many thanks to folks up there over the weekend who kicked in the boot track! Climbed the E Ridge in the evening for some recon - very cool to be up there that time of day. NW couloir looked very "powdery" from our perspective and the walk to Dorado Needled looked long. Settled on the S Face of Eldo. First ascended in June 1970. The description in the Beckey kind of made sense. We just walked up to the high point of the glacier and hunted out a line with a reasonable moat crossing. There's much room for variation on the face, but only a few moderate lines off the glacier. In Scurlock's photos the cliff band is pretty much gone late winter. Started with a 50' chimney (5.6 in crampons?) to more moderate mixed terrain for four pitches. Could've solo'ed easier snow after two pitches but stuck to the ribs instead for more interesting climbing and to avoid dribbles of snow and ice loosened up by the warming temps. II 5.6 60deg - seems a fair summary given the conditions and equipment required. Looking down the first two pitches. Allen leading into a snice groove.

Hey folks - thanks for the abundance of (mostly) positive responses. I've been able to hook up and climb with some of you who have contacted me and it's been a great experience. That being said, with the continually crappy weather we've had so far this month combined with having made contact with a number of interested parties (who have flexible schedules), chances are slim I'll be able to get out with anybody else in the near future. Thanks again for all your interest and try to climb something this fall on that one OK day per week! Cheers . . .

What could "gadfly" be a euphemism for?

Well, Kirk, I've already been doing this for years, so I am qualified to train/climb with people who posses minimal skills. That's what I already do for work. New climbers I bring into the field are not "guinea pigs" of any sort. They get a great, new experience with a high degree of supervision and risk.managment I get to complete a list of mock guided, prerequisite climbs, applying skills I know well but need to refine in terrain that is new to me (i.e. something other than another freakin' lap on the Shuksan summit pyramid). If you, or anybody else out there, would like to see my personal resume or a list of references, from my employers or certified guides I am well aquainted with, I would be happy to do so. And judging from the number of people who have responded to this post, most do not share you concerns and are stoked to get guided for free and learn some skills to add to there own climbing in the process. Thanks you for voicing your concern. Apology accepted.

Levi - can't help you out with the room situation since I'm up in B'ham, but give me a shout if you want to get out this fall or winter. Lee lee.lazzara at yahoo.com

Sounds like the guy from Michigan was in way over his head and the guy from Mantana . . . uh I mean Montana, was just over it.

Right on - I can make the drive for sure. I've still got to plug away at some more grade IV's too.

Here's the deal. I've got a ticklist as long as my arm of climbs I need to do to fill up my 'resume' (if you will) to move onto the next level of my AMGA courses in the Rock and Alpine disciplines. And I need to folks to be willing 'clients' who are psyched to fill that roll on climbs that might be well above their current ability. Yes, you will get short roped. Sometimes you might even wonder why the stupid rope is still in play. Yes, you will get told what to do a majority of the time. But to make this worth your while I could hopefully accelerate your learning curve by teaching you some ways to get it done quicker and safer out there. I have no insurance. There will be no exchange of anything resembling money. All the same, the risk you incur would be no greater than it would be with anybody else you might meet through this website. Please be honest about your fitness and skill levels and be ready to have some long days. I'm over the fall bivy unless it's really needed. Throw some climbs my way. No, not Rainier . . . or Adams or St. Helens.

I know it's a long way from home but if your down here or passing through give a holler. Psyched on Sun Ribbon, Clyde, Hulk? llazzara at yahoo

There's some new little crag over by Lyle. Visible from the road driving up the Old Lyle Hwy to some area where people hike and trail run (Cahterine Creek TH?). Really close to Hood River and super senic. That place needs some traffic for sure. No idea what the grades are but there seemed to be some moderate routes. Wear a helmet for sure too . . . like hiking up to the base of the wall. Just put it on at the car . . .

Bump . . .

Lost mine up on Cayoosh back in April. If you have an extra pair or never use yours - let me know! Could pick up B'ham to Tacoma area. Cheers . . .

You can drive to within 2 miles or less of the the Shannon Ridge TH. Walked out of there on Friday so probably less than a mile by now. Intermitent snow the first few miles of trail then full snow before the first switchback. Flotation highly advised.

Getting smart and finally buying a comuter car for the summer - making climbing affordable again! But have too many vehicles where I live . . . our place already looks like a W Trash festival. Need to find someone with a decent parcel of land near B'ham (any place off 542 great) where I can park my 4x4 dinosaur for the Spring through Fall. Can work out a good trade or pay small fee . . . Cheers!

Hiked in this AM with some intention of climbing. Slow trail breaking on the Coleman (skis OK, snowshoes less OK), wind from the approaching blowing snow around up high , a recent crown high on the Coleman Headwall and not-so inspiring looking ice (from afar) combined to make us reconsider. Moving across slopes of >35deg above gaping holes would also have made me think >twice. Maybe this route starts to dry up when it gets to be regularly cold? Skiing OK on lower Coleman - wind affected for sure.

Need to get from B'ham to L-worth Thurs morning Oct 7th. The earlier the better. Any B'hamers headed to eastside to climb? Will kick down for gas. I'll have 1 or 2 duffels and a small/meduim cardboard box (TJ's food for the Valley!)

Ride offered/needed 1.October 6-ish 2.Yosemite/East side 3.Bellingham 4.1 5.Toyota T100 - 18mpg but lots of room for you stuff. If you're headed that way in a better rig I'd take a ride and split driving/gas for sure.

Not many given the short and long term wx outlooks. Interested in getting hammered by bad weather to see if anything is comming in on/around the Bakerhorn and beyond? I don't want to sketch out on the glacier alone with recent and forthcomming snows. Might also be into carting the boards around soon or climbing EZ routes in bad condition. Looking to head up high in a week or so and will be around most of the fall and early winter with planty of spare time. I'll drive from B'ham or meet in Sedro W. if the objective is out Hwy 20. Day missions only . . . at least when the weather truly sucks. Cheers

About a month ago there was whole pick-up truck full of those barrels for sale on the way to Ashford. Somewhere on Hwy 161 between South Hill and Eatonville. Lots of blue barrels but no more details than that.

Trip: Mesahchie - Icefall Couloir to East Ridge Date: 9/3/2010 Trip Report: Cool route despite the choss factor. Lots of transitions between different kinds of climbing. Some easy glacier, moderate ice, steep snow, chossy rock . . . Not many signs of life up there - saw exactly two cairns, four pieces of tat and one summit register. It was great to be on such an infrequently traveled peak. Finding suitable anchors was the biggest challenge. Most belayed pitches ended with simply dropping to the other side of the ridge to get a terrain belay. Took 15 mins to find a good anchor for our single rap. We descended the route to pick up our ice gear stashed at the top of the couloir. Racking up The couloir starts at the upper left corner of the glacier. N ridge on the right skyline looks worthy and offers more rock and less steep snow. Gaining the ridge from the couloir A not really necessary but fun pitch of 5th to gain the summit crest . . . 6th team this summer . . . Sidehill stoke . . . Gear Notes: Used two tools, steel crampons, and a few screws, but could get by with way less with good route selection through the icefall. 50m rope ideal. Small rock rack to #1 C4 if you rope up at all . . . Approach Notes: We did this as an overnight, but it could be done in a day from Easy Pass TH. 3 hrs TH to 6800' bivy - 6 to 9 hrs on route and descent - 2.5 hrs back to TH. Seems like a reasonable itinerary for a day trip. The sidehilling gets old after a while but never goes on long enough to be truly tedious . . .