bwwakaranai

thanks for posting. always fun checking out new and old l-worth stuff

Heres some mank from way back in 1996, Ace Is The Place!

I always thought of the grade scale as a way of keeping climbers out of trouble on repeat ascents. Id rather they over-shoot it than sandbag. Im curious on what California climbs you feel are soft compared to NW. The system is vague and Ive experienced discrepancies in both states. What matters much more is that its a fun route dont you think?

Represent locs!

thanks Dave

Just curious, whats the snowpack like around wenatchee, Rocky Reach Dam area?

My tick list... Im sure I'll get a few tick bites at Erie But I really want to get on Freeway at Squamish, and put up a crap load of new pitches elsewhere. I'll just be happy if it doesnt snow on us in August this year. -B

Crazy rope set up. Looks like it might have some cool cracks. What type of rock is it?

Wish I wasnt working Gene. Was a beautiful day today from the inside looking out. My buddy Ian wanted to head up there too. Ill send him your way. -Brandon

April is gonna be pretty snowy for backcountry rock this year, but for down hill ski/board Bloody Couloir is always fun and easy access. For somthing more spicy check out the "Checkered Demon" near Mt. Humphreys. Mt. Tom is a nice, long spring ski some years too. For cragging, Rock Creek, Clarks Canyon, Owens Gorge, Cardinal Pinnacle, Buttermilks, Happy Boulders, Pine Creek, Bachar Boulders, Deadmans Boulders, Alabama Hills, Dike Wall are all great places but some if not most will still be snowy in April. Have a blast, the East side is awsome.

The Orange Wall had some new Stainless hardware now. Thank you Mr. Geddes. More mank on the Snag Buttress to work on next.

Billcoe, I actually ordered two of these because the picure looked just like the ones I need but they turned out to be a much wider taper than the ol fish drill takes. THose are A tapered bits and apparently the ones for this drill are S tapered...? I have a Petzl rock pec but the fish seemed like it would be better. Like someone said above the SDS bits seem to work best for roto hammer action, or get a big Fixe. Shapp I'd like to check those out, when you heading to Everett next? -B

Riley- thanks for the reply. Yes I was hoping to get out today, monday. I didnt realize it was so late when I posted. The clouds are kinda breaking up but it might be a c-c-c-old one today. Better luck for you tomorrow. I'll be a workin dog. -Brandon

If its sunny, anyone up for some laps on ShNag Buttress tomorrow? Or Orange wall. 11:00 or so

Cool thanks all. I might want that bit for 10 bucks. It looks liek a wider taper than the one I have though. I will try a grinder too.

Picked up an old school Fish hand drill that uses these rare bits. Anyone have any rusting away in the garage?

Surprisingly its not from the 80s but from the 90's and late 90's at that- 1996. I'll be the first to admit to putting non-stainless steel harware up in Western WA but will, from this point forward use only stainless steel in this wet climate. From the outside the shortest of the three looked to be the best but turned out to be the worst. One crank with a crowbar and then it pulled out by hand...Ugly

Thats some kick ass sandstone Austin. You guys are tearing it up out there. Im really stoked to hear about the ground breaking access you've been granted and that you've found a little or actually BIG piece of paradise for yourselves and many others. Love to see the pics man, keep them coming -B

Great job fellas, thanks for posting -Brandon

Wow! awsome shots

Storm clouds gathering around South Nesakwatch Spire. Having completed the enchainment (just in time), we got utterly drenched on the hike out. Brandon and co battled their way up the south face of South Nesakwatch during the worst of it, it would be good to hear their tale . .. Pretty nasty for August 31st eh? Glad I wore blue jeans :)Check out Darryls tape job in pic#2. He stepped up big time learning how to aid climb on an icy thin seam that took micro nuts and almost two lobes of the 00. My fat ass ripped out three of his key pieces following. We were wishing we had ice axes for the slippery ice black lichen mixture from hell. Third picture is of Darryl on Excalibur on a much kinder day. Cheers to a sunny 2011 summer.

Im trying to round up some more gym rats for Redmond/Seattle VW on weekends and Everett for after work sessions (6:30-close). Being that my regular partners either ski or have the ability to road trip during the winter I find myself bouncing off the walls at this very early stage of winter. Im driving from Mount Vernon so prefer to have a set date rather than just go and hope to partner up. Hows about tomorrow, Mon 22nd?

Thanks for the TR and thanks for putting up another classic on the Illusion Wall. Chris, David, Darryl, and others for pounding in those bolts. Every pitch has character, great route. I wish I knew why I cant get pictures to upload on here anymore so I could put the one of Darryl bear hugging the flake, yep thats the one Reid.

Thank you, most certainly will do that -B

Choss Pile! Why on earth would you take that route to the top? Just finish it after the bulging handcrack pitch and rap down. Better yet after the second pitch, better yet go climb at the Bend.