TRoth

Ok SORRY my BAD. I understand and all, glaciers have propper names and such, Its just always been pretty massive and intact all 3 times Ive climbed it over the summer.

That snowfield is massive and present all year :-/ has been for the past couple years that Ive been frequenting anyway. Turning that corner onto the snowfield is steep and rotten by now. I said glacier because its ever present snow that has significant mass.

This thread is the worst trend. Nice arm chair climbing chief. There is a reason for the X. protecting my belayer is important to me. if all you want to d is complain then you should really take a look at youer life and think "DAMN, am I realllllly that person"....

I solo'd up to the upper glacier on the terrible traverse. I stopped there. the bowling alley is sketch once you make it past the glacial traverse.... but I just climber it in august. video: I almost took several slips on rotten ice. be careful. it is an amazing place to be solo... no cell service. There is still a eugene climber up there who fell

Welcome to North Sister! HA!

Mr. Plaid man, ever get the rabbit ears without me? I'd say that the slog up the cascade slopes will give yopu some nice Ice. I enjoy explotring ice caverns and leading out of them. There is an amazing formation at the top of White River Canyon on Hood. we found this little valley with the "blue caverns" and "Superman's layer" kind of fun stuff

jesus!! Those are huge groups!!! Id probable hit a different line

man, Mt. Washington Should be just as gnarl eh?

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1075756/Topped_out_NORTH_SISTER#Post1075756

Just Summited myself!

start climbing at 3 am just for snow soundness

Yeah, I had been to the big arete after the snow field twice. I had never turned that corner before into the bowling alley. When I turned the corner (which was a pain in the ass down climbing rotten snow)I ended up traversing north to a red and green sling I had seen. That was the scariest time. I had two sketchy moves with no gear. I made it to the slings, looked over the edge and said "fuck that!!!" I turned around and looked south and up the gulley. I saw the rap anchors at the top, straight east in the bowling alley. maybe 5.6 climbing with poor to no protection. 1 slinging horn is there. We summited, and rappeled over the edge back on to the glacier below, without going through the bowling alley. USE LOWER ANCHOR with 60 m Rope. So ya, Once we were both on the glacier and about to pull the rope, we stomped out a big ditch on top. this was my belayers spot. no pro, but if I took a fall on the glacier, he could jump behind the ditch and glacier to brace me. Im pretty confident in my skills and feet so I wasnt too worried. a #2 cam comes in handy, a nut set is nice. The rock weakness is..... not the best for placing gear. you have to keep a constant eye out and be vigilant. bring 3 long MSR coyote pickets for the snow sections. need a hammer or ice tool hammer

Its my 3 time there and first summit. Yeah, it can be intimidating with the lack of pro options some times. Here's my video I made from the climb!! Here's my video I made from the climb!!

Hey Guys. Me and my partner just topped out North Sister on Thursday at 3pm. We put in at Obsidian TH off of McKenzie pass. We hopped on the rock scree moraine at the South end of North sister. Then we ran the south west traverse. There was still snow blocking most of the scree paths. It turned these sections into technical pitches (14 shorties). Placed many pickets, a few screws, cams, nuts, etc. Went up through the bowling alley to the top. The lower YELLOW webbing- (my blue chordalette) and brown chordalette anchor will allow a 30m rappel straight west over the edge to the upper snow glacier ledge. It uses ALLLLLLLLLL 60m rope!!!!!!! We had a blast, and were pretty wiped when we were off. LOTS OF SNOW IN THE AREA. NORTH IS MOSTLY BARE, upper glacier is soft and rotten already expect crampon-picket use. Middle's NW route looks nice!

Hey guys and gals, I'm heading to Victoria (Sooke) BC to work for a zipline company as a rescue coordinator-Unimog driver-guide- and arborist..... Anyway, I'm taking all of my gear with me and looking to explore like crazy. I've been leading non stop, Trad and sport. do you know anything about the rock/ alpine in the area? do you live in the area? Want to climb? P.S. I love alpine and I'm bringing my tools screws and crampons :-)

well freaking hot rocks.... Bloody Helllll Govenor.. I didnt realize we were climbing the rolling hills of england mate... CHEERS

it takes about 4-5 hours to cover the same distance, running on manpower. Imagine that youre making 100+ $ per hour to hike on a beautiful mountain... $500 tab later at the bar at t line!!

Ive been eyeing it up aswell. I have tools, screws and pickets :-) Roth.tb@gmail.com

I have quite a bit of experience on North sister, and been up pretty high on Jeff (rained out) I really want to go back to N sister. Roth.tb@gmail.com

22cm for V thread anchors :-)

Ya Thin air is the shit. The beginning is nice if you stick the crack just. Then you can anchor out at the top, from there you can stitch the boulder shoulder towards the upper koala head wall (40' 5.1?). Then there are some burly old anchors that could an Abrams tank. from there its another pitch of sport... gnarliest start. first bolt is above the overhanging arete, hanging over jagged boulders and the belayer. I blew out my toes on my shoes because the rock was so rough in sections. That's one I pink pointed... but not going back to

its 400 feet of choss. Weaknesses and cracks, bounders and blocks.

I love's my mamut 8. I am an arborist and was rescue... so I guess Im ok by the list. But ive even used it in a 5:1 when I had no other biners. I clipped it, fed the rope and had my last switch back for the 5:1 also, if you dip it in soap, you can blow bubbles

good stuff, Thanks! just ordered another 22cm to help with the V's

haha. So are you talking about up through Muir and DC head wall? Or try and take a direst S line up Nisqually? I played around On lower Nisqually, ice climbing in crevasses. very cool area