kukuzka1

the mighty tooth! always good fun. and nice picture quality.

kayfire!!!!!!

you could argue natural selection on that one

yes, its hard to hear

some of thoose gals are hot!!!!!

true enough on the golf but the same responce as to simpler as to safer.

looks fun

Totally agree if it makes less of an impact by rapping a route then yes rap bolts are justified. or build a trail which you can stay on. as far as replacing a manky pin on a established route i doubt you would get any complaints from anyone, now adding bolts to a established route thats bogus, but theres no law against it

Oh my idealisms are in full check. yes its not the end of the world, theirs bigger problems, ect.. i was just commenting my personal feelings toward that kind of bolting it may not lead to further such activity but no one really knows that. as far as elcap ive always said it would wild if bolts were banned their from the begining, their would probibly be eight routes and the easiest would be a true grade 6 5.11R A-3+ I know thats unrealalistic and i dont hate bolts, i love um

they get a reaction because once an area establishes the norm/history usually thats how most climbers obey that tradition, such as no bolts,ground up,ect so if it becomes common practice to bolt next to cracks then thats what 90% will do. the other 10% will do what they want anyways.just because a climb isnt a "classic" dosnt make a difference

I think its more the single act of bolting next to a crack and possibly sending the wrong impression to the younger climbers that thats the norm and ok. ive never done that climb so im just going by the aboves statement?

gotta keep it bombproof safe for the masses

nice tribute-rip jensen

maybe jens remembers the route? if hes out their?

all right man, that was a nasty cut, i doubt i would of climbed anything after that

you their cascadeclimber?

so the discription i gave sounds about right? we climbed the 1984 route? were was that bolt i didnt see any bolts. the climb as a whole isnt great but that pitch with the roof and mantel was awsome. anyways thats subjective

Ill try and post some pictures when convert from slides to digital

yes, not the one in northeast wash.[mt. dorrish]

thanks, I couldnt remember if it was 2005 or 6? also i dropped a new large metoulios cam[blue] on the first pitch, hopefully you found it and are useing it.

Trip: cathedral rock - possible variation? or new line of the NE buttress Date: 6-20 2003 Trip Report: maybe someone out their knows a little about the 1984 route. the reason im writing this report is because the 3rd pitch was in my opinion the best pitch of that grade ive ever climbed in the cascades its too bad you have to climb the 1st and 2nd pitches to get their. it may be the 1984 route we did but their are some prominent features that I would have mentioned in a 1st ascent report[roof,rock bulge,yellow rock,large triangle rock]and the grade would be a serious sandbag.the route me and marko climbed in june 2003 started at the same belay tree as the 1984, then we headed left for aprox 20+ feet and then up, over scary,loose,4th and low 5th class rock, aiming for a left facing corner with a thin crack in it, belaying here. then strait up the crack[5.7] to a rock bulge with good jams[5.8+]which takes you to a small roof. exit out left thru some exsposed 5.6/7 climbing and mantel up to a large triangular rock, then more moderate climbing above. a truly awsome pitch. we moved the belay to possibly the same tree/notch as the 1984 route? but the crack up and left of the belay was in yellowish rock and was a short 5.9+ then a belay above, on a left trending ramp[loose rubble]to finish with a short scramble and the summit. so if anyone has any info, would aprieciate. mpreiss Gear Notes: stadard alpine rock rack to 4 inches

yes that was us, i remember you also

Trip: Dorado needle - Direct sw buttress Date: 9/4/2006 Trip Report: I dont know if anyones done this before me and marko did this? but its a quality two pitch variation to the 1985 sw buttress route with great rock and pro. after exiting the aproach gully instead of traversing right to the cauthorn start go strait up the buttress toe via 4th class rock until you see an obviouse couple vertical cracks on the left center. climb the right crack[5.8] until you must exit right via a small rock pillar[5.9+-5.10]to reach easier ground.the second pitch climbs strait up with a akward couple of 5.8 moves[slightly wet when we did it]then up some solid mid 5th rock to join the regular route at the large white slabs. if its been done my apoligies but it should be out there so climbers looking for a little more difficult rock can enjoy it. mpreiss Gear Notes: the 5.8 crack cams/nuts up to 4 inches. the crux thin cams/nuts

Havent seen that veiw of the stuart range before, nice