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Everything posted by Frankazoid
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best of cc.com [TR] Lake Wenatchee - AK47 12/12/2010
Frankazoid replied to IsolationedSnow's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
I think insulting somebody on this level is fucked up. much more fucked up than summitchaser coming off "macho" or overly stoked.... let people get stoked! sometimes people come off as big old dorks when they share what they are excited about. i know i have. This is when, as adults, we "Humor" people. You know? dont insult... respect even if you feel its silly. just to be good natured. thats something everyone can appriciate. We got enough fucked up people in this world. either say something positive or keep your thoughts to yourself.. just dont be insulting you pricks! lol. Be adults! Be kind! I think your posts are rad dude. I can feel how stoked you are. And that stoke is contagious.... even if i'm not into mixed climbing, njust hearing about people getting out and having fun gets me going! even if I think your posts are slightly dorky cause I do. But I still can appriciate them. And its all good, ya know? Just look up some of my lame ass posts from when I was finding new crags and ranting and raving about them.... sounded kinda overly excited and maybe stupid. but its stoke. thats what it is- and thats nothing to be rude about.... ahhh the world would just be better if people could humor people. -
Yeah- those work great. I used them commercial fishing in AK. Cold and wet 18 hours a day on the boat deck, but those things helped keep my feet dry and warm. also boots that give you siome wiggle room are great. too tight of boots will not insulate properly... its nice to have some sort of minimal air-layer between your foot and the inside of the boot.
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Ahhh the cave.. you must be speaking of the big cave on mt. washington way above____.... theres another smaller cave before that one too. Those guys might still have some tools lying around, that could get ripped off if people start checking it out. Maybe get the ok from Josh and the other folks who have been trundling and bolting up there before talking about it much more... theft has been a problem unfortunetly at developing crags. Also that cave seeps and would not be great at all right now. The lip of the cave tends to have its own mini waterfall around this time of year. the smaller cave prior to that one, features some old projects form cp little and is dubbed the "negative cave" cause the roof actually slopes downward as it climbs out.
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hmm.. im guessing lots of wet climbs. not to mention finger numbing stone. I'm stoked to get on megatherion, after hearing my friend rant and rave about it earlier this summer. we need some warm air and wind to dry it out for a coupla days.
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also the "Tinkham" exit features great car camping. Its reached 5 minutes before exit 38 as your heading west on I-90. Really obvious camping.. just drive the road (the exit is a road that paralells the freeway) for a few miles and search for your perfect spot.. no climbing off this exit though. but the car camping is much nicer i'd say.
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definetly... exit 38 off of I-90. It's 15 minutes west of the pass and you can car camp anywhere around there. It also happens to be an area with a wealth of bolted routes. Look up exit 38 climbing and exit 32 climbing. (32 is "little si" and features "world wall" some of the best sport climbing around on a 40-45 meter wall with routes from 5.9-14...
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$120--Camalots- .75 #1 #2 #3 for sale. I guess $150 was too much for yall, so how about $120?! All in great shape- never taken lead falls. The 1 and 3 are the last generation stem. I need to sell them ALL. Not one by one. I'm going to the RR Gorge and need some food money for the next month. You can call anytime at 206.409.0975 PM me, or email Frank_A_Bush@hotmail.com - Thanks
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Camalots- .75 #1 #2 #3 for sale. All in great shape- never taken lead falls. The 1 and 3 are the last generation stem. I need to sell them ALL. Not one by one. I'm going to the RR Gorge and need some food money for the next month. So, $150 for the package. You can call anytime at 206.409.0975 or email Frank_A_Bush@hotmail.com - Thanks
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Fuck yeahhhhhh!!! What an accomplishment... Good job to all those involved. Unreal, really
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Well as of now I'm bumming around Sitka ak out of work... Plan was to get a new drill after workig up here... I'm about ready to go back to Seattle and try to find work. Really ichn to climb too- been 2 months. New routes are in the plans, most definetly.
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I really don't care what grade people want to call hurricane. I just think it's a fun short climb to do and was happy to put it up. 5.8+ whatever.
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Hurricane: So I definetly wanted to call the route 10.c as an onsite climb. The other person I put the route up with just couldn't find a way to comfortably do the roof move, so he called it 11a. ( much more comfortable for shorties). Glad to hear about people climbing it though, regardless of whatever grade concensess there is. I wish it was at least 3 times as long! Tropicana is a great 10c roof route at amazoina.... Wish there was more of those around.
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Anybody know of bolted crags or gear craggin' near Juneau? I'm going to be there next week and would love to climb.. I lead .12's when clipping bolts, otherwise a 5.10 leader on gear typicly. I'm up here fishing and left my gear in Seattle so hopefully someone who wants to climb has an extra harness... Otherwise it would be cool hike around and just check stuff out. Thanks- Frank
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Have this guy sole your shoes. http://cascadecobbler.com/ Cascade cobbler in Mazama, Wa. He's done a great job on my shoes and he's quick.
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I shattered my pinky in 2 places last year... playing basketball. how lame. It had split the first section of bone, verticaly,in half. That shit hurt. Took three months for it to grow back together, and immeadiantly afterwards I went to Thailand and pulled on limestone pockets and stemmed my way through stalagtites. True story. Wear a stiff as brace on your pinky- but it moust connect to your palm to keep at at no movement. Then go to private idaho crag at index and jam low angle 5.7 cracks with the remaining fingers until it's all the way healed. Thats what I did anyhow.
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Ha! Ya dude, the cave is definetly wet. need a good 4-5 days of no rain and warmer temps for it to stop seeping. Nevermind: after hard rain the wall gets wet. fo sho.
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large cliffs SE of Cle Elum, and carnival crack
Frankazoid replied to markwebster's topic in Climber's Board
those cliffs are mank yo. seen'em... -
Could that orange stuff be lichen?
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[TR] Snow Creek Wall - Orbit 5/11/2010
Frankazoid replied to summitchaserCJB's topic in Alpine Lakes
How about the first 15? ft of Angel? That crack is pretty good. I havent climbed any super long cracks yet, so thats all I got to offer. Oh and the low angle offwidth pitch of the tree route... thats a fun one. -
I know this died in jan. but i'd like to throw my 2 cents in... At this point, I believe that any new route indoors or out, should have a rating of 5.8+. Just 5.8+ the world. Thats it- nothing more, nothing less. "ya it was like 5.8+ or something..." I like the sound of that.
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Crillz, in that sense- yes. they are.
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C'mon guys...Really- Explosion test kit? Kimmo heard a boom? wtf's goin on here? Here's a true story- I came across a cougar (fully grown) at the country, as I was exiting the upperwall trail. about the begining of April.
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Also, what area (in Darrington) would feature more vertical climbing? rather than multiple pitches of slab...
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Just wondering if anyone knows what the latest conditions are at the domes. I am hoping to climb exfoliation dome wed. next week. Have no idea if there is snow and seeping water on the climbs..... and hows the road? - Thanks
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If the walk offs were forested slopes holding the soil and shit together that would be one thing. BUT theyre not! Its a f'kn gravel sand mess coming off almost every route. I would go as "far" as to say it's bad fkn style to not make routes rappable, with the type of slopes these areas have. -Whether it was 50 years, or 2 years ago that a route was put up! People are way too f'n caught up with "ohh it was traditionaly done this way" "so you cant change shit on the route, because its sooo classic" "dont replace that fkd up pin with a new bolt at the crux cause that thing is from the FA and it makes it more classic". all that kinda bullshit. is bullshit. if something can be improved, fuckin improve it- whether its the rock, trail, or whatever.