Pilchuck71

Looks like a good day, but Icehouse? Really? Oh well, more good beer for me!

Nice link! Thanks Darin!

You got me Porter......Now I am shamed....into... saying: Marc I am sorry and if you want I will chalk your hands for you on your next project. On a serious note: Good for you Marc on your good day...I am just not into the video...when I watch people go slow and chalk at every move I just wonder if it is the chalk they need or if it is just a pause to think out the next move and if so why not just take the time and forego the habitual use of chalk as a prop for pondering sequences. I personally have been able to climb for over twenty years and in all conditions and only felt the need to chalk in the humid climate of Krabi. But that is just me.

I don't think you chalked up enough. And yep, what Kevbone said.

That last photo is sweet. Nice TR.

Ditto!

First of all thanks to those who helped me track Glenn down. I really appreciate it. Secondly if anyone is interested his new website is: http://www.majestic-america.com/

Why yes....yes I am.

I bet they are left as fixed gear because people are more interested in getting rid of them than leaving gear they actually prefer to use.

You could use the paint markers as suggested. Paint the part of the tricam that has the slight indentation for the webbing to run through and it should stay bright, shiny and new for a long time. How often do any of you guys use these? I have one I have been bringing along for a few years and I think I have placed it once or twice.

No problem Goat Boy glad to be of help. It was actually pretty funny when I got back to the computer and searched Buff Black......you can imagine some of the crap that came up.

Very nice. That cave looks cool. Cheers!

Man, I really enjoy your TR's. Your knack for photography makes me inspired and jealous at the same time. To top it off your writing style is entertaining and fun to read. Thanks for sharing.

North Face Del Campo via Headlee Pass trail and out Weden Creek. The Lewis Peak Gullies on the Morning Star side.

I climbed Mt Baring in January about 7 years ago. Climbed it via the standard (easy) Summer route. The hardest part was the climb from the notch and then the ensuing upward traverse. Although now that I think about it the traverse across from the wooded ridge to the gully leading to the upper bowl was brutal. It was hard packed iced over snow and the footing was terrible. One of my buddies took a 50'+ slide down through the trees and fortunately missed all of them but did rip off a couple finger nails and get a major case of "road" rash on his outer thigh. Definitely a worthy Winter objective.

Nice Jordan. You seemed to have had a great season this year. I enjoy reading your TR's. ....and beer at camp.....a requisite...well, yeah! Tyson

Yep! That's what I am talking about.

Best is in the eye of the beholder. I think in winter climbing best means not getting thwacked by an avi...losing digits.....not leaving a bunch of trash....but mostly making it up, down and able to tell the tale. If someone wants to do things in a different way or "better style" go for it, and good on them. It ain't like your going up the snow making a Harding style bolt ladder. Come Spring no ones gonna know/remember/give a shit that you were there. Bottom line to me ...... did you have fun? Yes = success.

I thought this thread was what do you want to see climbed this winter not how do you want to see it climbed.

If you can narrow down the dates or date which you saw the work it would probably help. You may also consider figuring that out and then just emailing the Colophon directly.

All right GB. I talked to about four people over at the Colophon and the consensus was that it could have been someone by the name of Buff Black? (that is what they wrote down). I googled the crap out of it and was not able to find anything or anyone local using that name. anyway, sorry I could not give you the definitive answer, but hey, I tried.

Seriously though I will check it out today and let you know who it is for sure this evening. Cheers - Tyson

If you are willing to buy me beer I will drive over there at lunch.

That is so cool! I look forward to one day having the pleasure of taking my son or daughter to the mountains and sharing with them the places that have brought me such great pleasure in life. Thank you for the awesome trip report and sharing such a great experience. Cheers! Tyson

The funny part is that they actually did (Ed Visteurs was one of them). I recall reading some article where one of the actors said, "shouldn't you be able to see our breath if we are trapped in a crevasse at 8000 meters?", to which the director responded, good question, lets ask the consultants. The consultants responded that yes you would see your breath, additionally, you would be coughing, having a hard time speaking, etc. The director responded that it didn't look good in the film so they wouldn't be doing any of that. Now if you want to see a film that is worse that Vertical Limit, watch "Take it to the Limit" Another faux classic and locally relevant with disturbingly bad acting -High Ice! I love the exploding helicopter falling down the face and the firing of rockets to clear unstable snow masses. Freaking awesome!