Pilchuck71

Greg - Thanks alot! That's the guy. Would be cool to track him down. Cheers, Tyson

t_rutl - Would you mind asking your good friend? I met said guy through a coworker of my ex wife. Mutual friend named Mike Eedie? I remember having a blast on the climb and some great conversations. I would really like to reconnect and just see how things have been going. If memory serves me well, a few years after our climb I saw some of his photographs for sale at Fred Meyer (Posters) and I would be interested in at least learning his real name so I cold track down some of his work. Thanks, Tyson geBauer

Many years ago I climbed Mt Baker for the first time with a guy who possibly had the record for longest stay at the summit, possibly 30 days or something. I am wondering if anyone remembers anything about this. I am ashamed to say I cannot remember the guys name (Glenn?). Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Tyson

He has done some things I would consider "Hairbrained" and I don't want to be there the day he falls off something to his death and ruins everyones fun. On the other hand, I have spent hours around a bottle and a campfire having a great time listening to some of his stories.

No question the guy is intelligent and has a great memory. He is also one of the main names to have done a lot of the work on Squire Creek Wall.

Mostly quite -

Hey - The underwear men are Chris Christianson and Ken Strong. Whiskey Ken the "gear rustler" is a hell of a guy.Chris is one of those guys you either love him or hate him. I have yet to make up my mind.

Josh - I know people flip the Mounties crap all the time and sometimes for good reason, but I think the orginization serves a purpose. I began learning to climb on my own by reading everything I could get my hands on from R.R. Basic Rockcraft/ Advanced Rockcraft to Freedom 5th Edition and on and on. I also tried my hand at rope skills on a small local boulder rigging raps and setting stoppers as well as climbing on a fixed line with a prusik self belay etc, etc. I eventually met and started climbing with the partners I climb with to this day, but after a few years of my self teaching and learning what I could from my buddies I joined the Mountaineers and took the basic climbing class. I thought it was handy to have people who did not know me critique the systems I was using and to learn what I could from them. It also was helpful to gain some crevasse rescue skills from them and actually practice. As you may find, everyone has thier own way of doing things and definitley their own opinions on what the right and wrong ways of doing things are. I did not stay with Mounties past my graduation from the course as clubs aren't really my thing but I did meet some cool people who I still climb with to this day and I also gained some skills. I say go for it Josh it can be a valuable and rewarding experience, if you make it so.

Pretty judgemental buddy. If you don't like it don't do it. Live and let live. Let thee without sin cast the first stone. I am sure by now you are getting the gist.

Right on and thanks Matt for the work. I will be heading up this weekend (weather permitting) with Smedley to give it a shot. I have been to what I have always called "the Forest" a number of times but never gone the last ways to the top. I am looking forward to it.

I can see your point Choada, but I also can see that JL is going to go out and do shit anyway. I am thinking at least he could have some "better" gear to get started with. I was thinking more along the lines of crampons, raingear, sleeping pad...the ultra basics. I think that is a far cry from sending him off with a rack and rope and saying "go at'er noob". I benefited from friends hand me downs when I got my start and I am sure more than one other on this site has as well. Just saying.

I am cleaning out my gear pile today. I am willing to start the donation station. I am not sure what all I will end up with but if anyone else is interested in pitching in to get the kid going, say so. Letsroll, you brought it up, got anything to throw in the pot?

Are you kidding? JL is the king of the bicycle!

Nice work Josh.

Nice work Dave and Co.! It is really great to see the area getting some quality lines with real thought and the appropriate gear, so that others may enjoy such a spectacular area. Great job and much thanks for all the effort. Tyson geBauer

Nice Shapp - No shit? The camo surveillance thing is weird? No wonder I don't have any friends - Or is it the drinking?

I don't know any real details but my edited post are my way out of respect to let the FA parties let the cat out of the bag when they are ready. I wish I knew more and am also waiting for the details as I have been somewhat involved in the area for quite a while, but have not been part of the route creation (old or new) on the wall. Just a local with connections to many of the people and participants in previous FA's. -jshamster- by your user name I am assuming you are in the Ham? I am fairly new to the North and looking to meet partners up this way so if you are heading out locally let me know. Cheers Tyson

I was out two weeks ago and climbed Chickenshit gully to Dick Ridge and camped below the summit of Squire Peak. After the Cable Crossing was (Removed?) vandalized a number of years ago it was nice to see the huge log that crosses the creek a mere 15 yards or so from the old crossing. Follow the old road to the dry creek, locate the old trail and work your way to Squire creek and cross the log. Then let the games begin.

And I thought I had figured out all the uses of duct tape!

That 5th picture is freaking awesome!

Well said Dane. I personally still think that a climber doing a FFA should be glad to have the credit of doing so and not find the need to rename, but that is a just my opinion and everyone knows opinions are like assholes.

I agree, completely lame.

Couldn't you just clove hitch in closer to the master point also clipping the resultant loop of extra cordage below your clove hitch as a back up?

Like usual Scurlocks pics are amazing. I was just looking out at the East Face from Squire Creek Wall last weekend and was amazed at the bomblast looking rock debris on the snowfield below the North Peak on the East aspect. It truly looked like a crater caused by massive mortar fire. I believe I remember hearing about someone doing the 45dg couloir on the East face a number of years ago. Does anyone else remember this?

It very well could be the Darrington Effect.