YocumRidge

May - early June would be your best bet for the dog route.

No one is interested? Ice is currently in good shape at both places.

Yep, very truly yours Stephenson Warmlite. Its a newer, shorter version 2C, double wall (2R) with the internal wind stabilisers (funny "flaps"), reflective liner, no windows, standard door and standard triple vents. So, I've just weighted it (tent and poles, no stakes) and it came down to 1048 gram (~ 2.3 lbs). The tent survived the epic much better than us. First, got hammered by the ice avy off the headwall, then by spindrifts on the Coe gl drop offs, no probs. I was actually swept by wind gusts, fell, tumbled and broke one of the pole in my hand while we were taking the tent down. Still, the second day we pitched it again with the broken pole and hunkered down for another 16 hr - I was really dreading the idea of spending that time in a snow cave The higher winds the less condensation or ice build-up in the tent. None was on this trip and its after cooking and melting snow for 1 gal H20 inside the tent.

[video:vimeo]19589742

I could not resist.... Hood summit, 2008

Looking for a partner to hit some ice either in Bannf or Hyalite for a few days within 02-13 to 02-22 (flexible). I am mostly interested in swapping leads on moderate stuff. Have a full rack, ropes, car.

Awesome! Now you are ready for some ice action, white boy !

But look at the bright side, your pics are some of the best I have seen!

As of last week, Sweet Blue bomber ice on both for a change! Those who are not comfortable with it, bail at the Crater Rock. Pons needed at Silcox up.

The dragon cannot stand women so you should be fine with your new tools, just dont fall. Some unfortunate souls (must be women too ) did fall in the right gully on Sunday but successfully bailed back across the Eliot around 10 am. If you (the souls) read this, we'd like to hear a word on what happened.

Is it this time of the year again? No Spider last weekend, but there is this in the CS cirque: And that:

Vodka? Hmmm.....Should've been a pure alcohol. Noblesse oblige.

Yeah, Snow Dome - Currently, Ice Dome The keeper of the city keys Put shutters on the dreams. I wait outside the pilgrim's door With insufficient schemes. The black queen chants The funeral march, The cracked brass bells will ring; To summon back the fire witch.

John, I hear you can ski even faster on ice!

Yes, I took a 15' fall on one of them just two weeks ago on Rainbow falls and the screamer did NOT deploy while it should have. No clues what else did absorb the shock? Life was hard on that funky WA ice! 50' off the ground, 2 screws placed, fell on the second screw (16 cm), led on doubles, clipped separately.

Now Dane you get it where its coming from! Am I the old-school now?

Ha, only in Oregon!

Wow! One would never know I guess. We were actually surprised how suspiciously quiet it was (in summer after all) except for one "end of the world" kind of explosion but were lazy to move our asses elsewhere .

Ivan, still keep torturing poor Beacon, summer or winter? Nice work you guys!

Pete, are you into urban ice now? please...

Thanks. We figured it but were not really enthused to spend eternity digging them out Better yet, these rocks (across the Chouinard falls) have bolts too according to the locals: Must be one of those californikan things...

BD Sabretooth 2010 + LaSportiva Trango EVO GTX = connecting bar is moving sideways (worse on vertical ice). Anyone has this problem? Or my boot is too small (s.39) for proper adjustment?

Thanks to our own Chad Ellars (Lodestone) for his contribution to the ARI as featured in the current issue of Climbing.

Is this for real? YES, this is for real that we went cragging, had a great and painful time climbing the shitty WI4+ in a "bad" form and now have to apologize for inadvertently posting the update on the current conditions which raised more controversy than not. I am still waiting to see how many of you will have guts to have led what Veronika tried her best on and hoping that may be, just may be once in a while you will do your best to refrain from nitpicking and negativism.