RafalA

From my observations, there is no quality or fit/finish difference in Arcteryx gear regardless of where its made.

In a word, yes. As others have said, the high-end stuff generally fits and performs better, and lasts longer. Except gloves. High-end, expensive gloves make no sense to me, unless you can get them cheap or equal to other gloves, in which case they tend to fit that little bit better.

Ok, so it is a clove hitch. Was wondering what that's doing on a screw :-)

Well, you're both posting so I guess it worked! :-)

Looks like good times on the Parkway!! Nice TR. 'Twas good to finally meet you in person, Dane, and a pleasure to be introduced to the good Dr. N. A few more photos on my blog: http://blog.rafalandronowski.com/?p=2911 One question, though: what the hell is going on with the rope in this picture?? http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6934567087_263b58bd1d_b.jpg

Interesting read, but the tone is a bit too preachy for my taste. Cordellettes - there is a time and place for everything, sometimes they're useful, sometimes not. Rap rings - I have yet to meet a single person in the mountains with a rap ring, you southerners have some odd habits! :-) Daisy Chain - this is a piece of Aid gear, and should be used as such. PAS - to each their own, I find mine incredibly useful especially on "cragging days," not so much in the mountains. Perhaps we have a different definition of cragging. Quicklinks - for the weight and cost of a maillon, I bring one or two every time we head out sport climbing. I'd rather take that than a 'leaver' biner, as I try not to carry - or own - unnecessary gear. Bulk Webbing - wow, again, must be a southern thing. 6 or 7 mil cord will do anything you need it to. Lockers - again, different strokes for different folks. Carry as many as needed for the route...

You'll need the size large Silveretta's. My regular-sized 404's will fit a size 45 or so max.

Plum Guide is awesome. Light, mostly CNC'd aluminum, solid boot interface. No brakes, if you're into that. La Sportiva RT is lighter, and more expensive, still, though you can get brakes for them. Have unique toe-release for uphills. Don't know much about any of the others, just that they're heavier and have more plastic.

I've got one, a couple years old but it hasn't changed since afaik; fire away with any questions you may have. General observations: - the fit is relatively tight, i.e. it goes over layers but isn't as roomy as, say, the Kappa Hoody or Dually Parka. It's much more of a performance fit so would be much better for actual climbing in than either of those two. (5'11" 160lbs) - great belay jacket, though overkill with Pro Shell, I'd rather take something lighter that's just a nylon shell - totally windproof: every time I put this on I feel like I've just stepped into a tank (I mean it - this jacket feels absolutely bombproof!) - in the temperatures I use it (-25C and below), I don't have issues with lack of breathability as long as I'm layered properly. It's easy to overheat in if you use it in warm(ish) temps. (I've overheated in it walking the dog at -30C while wearing just a T-shirt underneath.) - dual-zipper, hem clip and long length mean this thing keeps your ass warm and your belay device visible - dual napoleon-style chest pockets are nice for storing random stuff, hand pockets are useless and inside mesh pockets are great for drying gloves, etc. For your use, I'd go with a layered approach (Atom LT, SV, etc.) - check out the parka purchase thread. Again, if you have specific questions, let me know, might be easier to get the info you want that way!

Just curious what it is you guys are climbing that a 40L pack is sufficient for 1 - 3 days? My 26L Warthog is stuffed to the gills for a one day alpine route, and that includes the rope under the lid and helmet on top. It mostly empties once climbing, but still... Heck, going for one day into the Headwall or Storm Creek (ski approach) and I can just fit everything into a 52L!

Higher alcohol and/or salt = less prone to freezing. Salted whisky, then? Thermos bottles can insulate both to keep warm and to stop from freezing... I've had water freeze in a Nalgene, yet stay liquid in a Thermos.

Yup, figure out your hood strategy beforehand, i.e. try it at home. Also, if you look carefully, you'll notice that some companies (I have mostly noticed this with Arcteryx) make their mid-layer hoods smaller, and their belay / outer parka hood bigger to fit over layers. Someone, somewhere, is thinking as we are.

$400? $350? $240? Wow. They're not collectibles yet!

Do they get the same weight of pillow? Or comparable in warmth? Will the down pillow be baffled? Otherwise all that wet down concentrated on one end is kind of unfair fight...

It seems Dane and I are coming to the same conclusions regarding winter climbing clothing: a lot of layers is good! I've been using a similar combo lately and it's superb: excellent mobility, light weight and extremely versatile: Atom LT Pullover / Atom SV Hoody / Alpha FL / Fission SV The Alpha FL is in there as a windblocking layer over the Atoms, neither of which is fully windproof. I take it off if I'm putting the Fission on for active use as that has it's own Gore-Tex layer, though this happens very rarely as I use it more as a belay jacket than activity piece (the thing is just too damn warm for regular use - I've worn it over a mid-weight base layer at -30 and have been perfectly warm!) The Atom LT p/o (60g) + Atom SV Hoody (100g) + Alpha FL as windblocker is a very, very warm combination, comparable to the Fission SV in my 'tests' (Fission SV is 200g Primaloft Sport torso, 133g P. Sport arms and hood, Gore-Tex Pro Shell outer). Very comparable in weight, too (+/- 1050g total for the three vs +/- 1000g for the Fission). Whatever Coreloft is, it's amazing. The stuff is incredibly breathable and staggeringly warm for its weight. And it compresses almost like down. I'd love to see a dual-layered belay-style parka using 100g Coreloft (or 100g + 140g Coreloft from the Kappa Hoody) to replaced the Dually.

Wow, not too often do you see (used) Nomics for sale! BTW, if these old ones don't fit your hands, try the new (orange/black) versions - the pommel is much bigger and more accommodating of large hands and gloves. bump for a sweet pair of tools.

Woo, closet cleaning / re-evaluating my gear (again) time. Open to offers on everything. Please post or PM here or e-mail rafal dot a at gmail dot com Arcteryx Kappa Hoody - Men's Medium - Blaze Orange - 2011/12 (current) model - $275 Essentially brand new. Doesn't fit me very well. I've worn it a few times walking the dog and it's a great jacket but doesn't fit me. Lots of room for layers. An excellent belay / ski jacket. Arcteryx M280 harness - Medium - 2010/11 model - $75 Very good condition. A few sport climbing falls. Two giant gear loops and four ice-clipper slots. Awesome harness but I haven't used it in weeks - prefer my big wall version. Arcteryx Gamma AR pants - Men's Medium - 2010/11 model - $75 Good shape other than a few crampon tears and some scuffing on the seat. DWR coating still performs well. Awesome pants. Got a new pair of the same pants. :-) Outdoor Research Drytool gloves - small - 2009/10 model - $30 The rubber-palm version. Like-new condition. Too small for me. Bluewater Pulley & SMC Pulley - $10 each Used, but not abused. Too much gear, so some of it's got to go! And now for the random Odds & Ends. If you're interested in anything make me an offer. I figure these might still serve someone well instead of chucking them in the trash. Grivel Asymmetrical crampon bars. One pair. Grivel normal crampon bars. Two pairs. Charlet Moser crampon bars. Yes, Charlet Moser. No idea what these will fit. On-Sight daisy chain, 32" or so. Great shape. Climb High sling. 29" or so. Slight scuffs. Mace full-finger mountain bike gloves. Size Large. MSR full-finger mountain bike gloves. Size XL. 2009 BD Punishers. Used, but will last the season. Good chance to try out these awesome gloves! Mountain Hardwear gloves, of some kind. Waterproof with gauntlet. Well used but will go another season of rappels and belays. A few tears here and there.

I'd try to tape a tool to the cast...

I've been using this thing for two years, and other than the rubber protective cap coming loose and the exposed snagging stuff, it's been well worth the $10. http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/SnowIceHardware/LeashesAccessories/PRD~4003-682/glacier-plastics-abalakov-hooker.jsp

PM sent on multiple books.

Have you looked at the cost of a sat phone? At least $500 for the phone + either a subscription plan or pre-paid card. 100/yr for a Spot is less than 9/month or 0.30 per day, more or less. Not sure how you find that hard to swallow.

Arcteryx B-360a. Light, small (for it's features), super comfy, lots of ice clipper slots, six gear loops. Expensive but worth it.

bump! make me offers people, this ain't a store so all prices are open to negotiation!

Open to offers on everything, name your price and we'll talk! Pictures available upon request, or as soon as I get around to taking and uploading them. Please PM here or e-mail rafal dot a at gmail dot com. SOLD Grivel Rambo 4 crampons. Well used but not abused. These have the rare flexible yellow antibott that is no longer available - much, much better than the rigid antibott on current models that cracks all the time. Come with extra unused set of front points (that can also be mounted as heel spurs). $160 SOLD Petzl Dart. Used three or four times. I prefer the Lynx, and don’t need multiple pairs of similarly-functioning crampons. No anitbotts (are commercially available for these), but this makes them super light. $130 SOLD Hagan Tour Expert 188cm skis with Silvretta 404 bindings in size large (fits sz. 10+ mountaineering boots), with brake. Very good condition, a little bit too big for me, and I already have a pair of approach skis. They’re approx 95-70-80. They come with some old skins that could use a re-glue. $200 SOLD Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes full set #3-9. Got these used, used them a couple of times, prefer cams so now they’re mostly just hanging on the wall unused. Slings in great shape, come on racking biner. $60 SOLD BD MicroStoppers #4 #5 #6. Older version. No idea where I got these anymore, but I’ve never used them. They look like they've been placed only a couple of times. $12 BD Impulse gloves, size Medium. Used on a couple of climbs but they don’t fit me all that well. Pretty much brand new. Softshell glove, fairly windproof but not waterproof at all. $30 SOLD BD Spinner leash. Used most of last season, replaced with Boa leash a few months ago, hence no more use for this one. No falls or static hangs. $20 And some photography stuff: Think Tank Photo Change-Up. Brilliant little beltpack / shoulder bag / chest pouch but I needed something more 'formal' looking for work so this has been replaced (with another Think Tank product - their gear is bomber!). $80 Sigma 150mm f2.8 Macro lens for Canon EF. Glass is pristine, outside has some wear. Recently serviced and checked over by Sigma Canada. Comes with pouch, manuals, box, caps, etc. $400 Spyder 2 Pro monitor calibration device and software. Mac and Windows compatible. Get true colours on your screen! $100

Mine swing both ways.