RafalA

Some general thoughts about gloves that have come up in recent discussions: - synthetic palm is warmer than a leather palm in comparable thickness of gloves - use the thinnest glove you can withstand to be in - waterproof is not as important as dexterity - bring several pairs of lightweight gloves over one heavier waterproof one - a waterproof pair is nice for belaying, rapelling, resting, etc. - gloves will get trashed, so often cheaper is better

AFAIK, the Ultra is not available in NA. The only person I know of that visits this board that has worn the Ultra and the Guide is Dane, and you can find his opinion on the Cold Thistle blog. So I'm not surprised at all. Try UK Climbing or other European forums where the Ultra is actually a model that's sold via retail.

Rambo 4's are amazing if weight is not an issue. Dart's climb almost as well for a lot less weight. Haven't tried the Lynx yet, but it looks promising.

Ya, no way they'd be $36. That's cost or less. BD Express screws are $49 everywhere as all the shops match MEC prices.

Uh, where exactly in Canmore? There is no way any shop in Canmore is selling these for $36... has to be a mistake somewhere. Ben (Vertical Addiction) is $49 and so is Valhalla Pure. No other shops in town... The Cobras, yes, they're $295. Can be found cheaper on sale...

I use Metolius MasterCams grey to yellow, BD C4's above that. They all seems bomber to me. I have more issues with the rock (Rockies limestone) than with my cams.

I've never had these issues, regardless of where I travel. Whenever leaving the country, or even travelling further afield than usual, just call your CC company and let them know when and where you plan to travel. One call and I've never had issues whether I'm in France or the US. FWIW, the ice is looking really good around here right now!

Not sure where in AB you're climbing ice, but the only place you can camp anywhere you want is The Ghost. The rest of it is protected park land.

What kind of jacket are you looking for? What's the primary use? In which region? We need more info to answer your questions better!

Working at a gear shop, I can tell you that the harnesses everyone finds comfortable are the Arcteryx models. We carry a fairly limited selection of manufacturares, but most people find something good enough from either Petzl or Black Diamond (the new entry-model BD's are a definite step up from previous years). Lacking that, I've yet to meet someone who didn't find the Arcteryx ones comfortable, before knowing the price, of course. I believe both Edelrid and Mammut have similar models available this year, but I haven't had a chance to try either, yet. Good luck!

Out of curiosity, how many tents are you staking out?

That's what, $1000 in jackets (retail)?! Retail (Cdn): Acto MX Hoody $300, Alpha FL $450, Beta FL $500 So not quite 1k, but close, if you actually buy at retail. Since you're in Van, the factory store is a good place to find bargains on a lot of their gear. I've never bought an Arcteryx piece at full retail, just look around.

Not quite a softshell, but something I just looked and am thinking to try this winter (please not that I haven't used any of these pieces, but have read great things about ether). 1. Base layer of your choice. 2. Mid layer, which can also be used as outer for the approach, etc.: Arcteryx Acto MX Hoody (or similar piece with a tight-weave non-membrane fabric). This looks to breathe amazingly, be quite wind resistant, repel some water and provide some warmth, while being lighter than a 'normal' softshell. 3. Outer layer: Arcteryx Alpha / Beta FL (or other Active Shell garment). These are super-light, reputed to be extremely breathable and are fully wind- and water- proof. Most of the benefits of a softshell, hardshell and windshirt? Any thoughts on this?

That bodes well for the tools they were showing at OR Summer not being the final, updated versions.

Petzl crampons typically have small, narrow bails that fit well on single boots, but not so well on large plastics. Pick up a BD or Grivel bail; that should solve your problem.

How about a proper backpacking pack, and an ultra-light pack for climbing? My buddy and I are currently using Arcteryx Cierzo 15 & 25 packs for climbing day trips and they are surprisingly comfortable, spacious and have held up well so far. I also have a MEC Genie 30 that's super-comfortable and crazy cheap. And they all weigh something like 500g and stuff into their own pockets...

I've got an old-model Arcteryx. Has lasted quite a few years, and is very resistant to tears (I always think I'll tear it, never have.) Cheap (on sale), light, stuffs into it's own pocket for clipping to harness, blocks wind. Could use a hood. The new Squamish Hoody has a hood that works with a helmet, considering it when this one finally dies.

I'll play along. Didn't read this in the rules, but thought I'd put in a disclaimer: I am a professional photographer, though I only get paid for weddings and events, and the occasional landscape print. Question re: Scenic category: are these limited to images from trips or anything scenic is ok? Alpine: Ice: Cragging: (Grotto Canyon near Canmore... qualifies as cragging for us locals, does that work?)

+1 Leave stuff in the outdoors = booty. Accidentally leave stuff (ie. drop, lose, fall out of pack, etc.) = post in Lost & Found = booty unless claimed

The Jorasses Pro is the updated version of the Freney XT. Awesome ice climbing boots, more here: http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=8094#Post8094

Trad, alpine, ice: WC Astro biners on a mix of BD, Mammut, Edelweiss and Ocun dyneema slings. Yates screamers. DMM Phantom on each cam. BD Freewire for racking nuts. Petzl Ange S for misc gear (bottle, gloves, windshirt, etc.) DMM Spectre2 for rap cord. Sport: BD Positron 12cm QD's.

Every time I send an e-mail to Arcteryx, be it a warranty issue or random inquiry, I get a reply back within a couple of days at most. I've found their service excellent every time. MEC is stellar as well.

I've got one. It's quick, simple and effective. I have the two-anchor version. Is it worth it? I paid $5 for mine so price wise I think it was worth it. Weight wise? Well, it weighs more than the equivalent slings, so depends on your objective. Multi-use wise? Same answer - slings are slings. This can't really be used as a sling, so it stays home on those days when I think slings will be more useful overall. Haven't used it with rock pro yet, but it's great for sketchy ice as you're guaranteed an even distribution on both pieces. I imagine it'll be the same on rock. I haven't done a direct comparison to anchor setup with the equalizer vs slings, but I imagine there is some time saved, so perhaps on very long routes it's extra weight is a good payoff.

Whatever fits. They all seem to work well (I've climbed on all your listed models). My preference is towards the Rambo's as I love the splayed out secondary points letting me hook pillars and funky ice more easily. I hate the rigid plastic antibot and am going to cut mine out. They're mono-only, though. I'd also look at the Petzl Dart/win and the Grivel G20/G22. A recent experience with these has converted me to the lighter side.

This is just bad press... too bad, I was really rooting for the "smaller" guy.