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fultonville

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Everything posted by fultonville

  1. Second pitch of Flow Reversal when it was thin and fun and slightly overhanging.
  2. hardly...sure wish index wasn't 170-some odd goddamn miles away... it's over 6000 miles away for me and I'd still rather go to Index. Beacon? Bollocks!
  3. Great to see someone on one of my favorite multi-pitch climbs at Index. BTW I see you missed getting the #4 friend in under the small roof at the start of the third pitch. Nice!
  4. Holy crap! Are those Oakley Factory Pilot shades? I used to have a pair of those. Loved them. Fuck the rest of the comments, where can I get another pair of those sunnys?
  5. Outstanding. Myself and a climber named Robert Cobb took it upon ourselves in '96-'97 to replace and upgrade a bunch of the bolts on upper and lower town wall and it's good to hear at least some of them are still there. Hope the weather holds out and I wish I was around to go with.
  6. Nice TR. Last pitch of Lovin Arms goes at Index 5.9. As far as not getting that first clip I've never heard of anyone blowing it but have heard tales of folks getting off route after the clip. You really should go back and get D/H into Lovin Arms. It's one of the classic free routes in the state. Are the chains still on top?
  7. Outstanding! Hope there's some of that left when I get back. Still waiting for that trip report on Chilco ;-j
  8. Nice rich and full trip. Carlsberg looks pretty hooked out, was it?
  9. Will be there in less than a couple weeks! Hopefully the locals will have gotten their Super Couloir dreams out of their heads and clear out as that's one on the tick list. Well done and thanks for the up to date pics!
  10. Have missed the train in the past and done the trail du bois back. We called it Mr. Toad's wild ride!
  11. Nice attentive belay on Cleopatras Needle. Guess he's just waiting for that first screw to go in, right? ;-j Good looking pics, thanks!
  12. Davis-Holland into Loving Arms...one of my all time favorite routes in the region. Lotsa memories. Are the chains still on top?
  13. Outstanding!
  14. Broke my right calcaneus 18 years ago while bouldering (needed to have pinned) and my 5th metatarsal in my right foot this last summer when I drop a Triumph 955i Tiger on my leg. After coming back from both what helped was giving up on any running, sticking to the mtn bike and only using ibuprofen before any strenuous activity. You need to be careful with the 'vitamin I' as using regularly is not so much a strain on the kidneys but it does not promote healing. This was told to me by a PT and not something I read on the web by the way. Finally I agree with kroc, you should suck it up and at least see a sports MD and pick his brain. Don't know if that helps any but good luck!
  15. word to the mother and I ain't bitchin' I just regret adding anything to this. Never again.
  16. If you lowered but left the draws then sent it with no falls it's a redpoint. There are bolted sport climbs all over the world were the draws are never taken down allowing climbers the chance to onsight it (no falls, no hangs) or redpoint the shit out of it (moves are worked out and the climb is done with no falls). Also most of these kinds of climbs are really really steep hence the need to leave the draws. The reason you sometimes need to be clear about such things is when other climbers want to do the climb and see that the first ascent has been labeled as a pink point they might incorrectly assume some pro must be placed by them should they want to onsight it. Don't get trapped in debates. Just climb, learn to edit videos and stay healthy. Finally I'll ask again, what helmet camera were you using?
  17. Okay...the diff between pink point and red point is pink point you pre-place active/passive pro. When the climb is done you take the gear home. Red point pro is bolted or pinned and is there, hopefully, forever. Either way the climb was rehearsed and obviously done with no falls. No rehearsal, no falls? On-sight. So I'm thinking if you're calling it pink/redpoint part of the pro was not fixed? Two more questions: One, what type of helmet cam was used? Two, where was the ice? Slush and moss don't count unless you're in Scotland. No water source? Get some buckets of cold water and douse that slag every night! ;-j
  18. Thanks Steve, hope this works! The butt shot is Joe working his way though the roofs on the second pitch. The next one is belaying the top of the third pitch.
  19. Nice stuff. Wish I coulda done the rest of it but it ain't going nowhere so there's always next year!
  20. Crap...I guess I can't do this photo load thing. Wonder why I can't paste like on all other websites?
  21. https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=cd12375a81&view=att&th=12b06d7ee9df335a&attid=0.1&disp=inline&zw This is Joe on the second pitch. Fun corner through the roof eentually. Hope that comes through!
  22. It was great to be back after so long. Good climbing with Joe and Steve as well. Nice description Joe! Makes me wanna get back there. None the less, if I could figure out how to include jpegs I'd throw some on!
  23. That was great. Now it needs to be done in winter!
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