
Taluscat
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Everything posted by Taluscat
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thanks Mike for your response..We will provide photos! we dubbed the W. face the "crystal ball wall" because of the futuristic routes that are there(though not in cond right now)- i completely agree there is bivy potential on some of those..
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Trip: Sloan Peak - West Face Date: 12/10/2011 Trip Report: I have posted asking Q's regarding this awesome face though in the meantime I will summarize our accent that occured Saturday and will have Braden follow up with the photos.. So on the lunar eclipse,Braden Downey,Will Hinkley and myself made an accent of a long snow and ice route on the Northeren aspect of the west face and IS the line of weakness to our eyes (well provide an overlay shortly) the route begins at the lowest part of the face and follows a steep ice flow aprx 950' up to grade 4 climbing and provided 5 full length pitches,We found fair quality ice though at times a bit runout and very insecure and coined pitch 4 "The Window" due to a hollow hole in the middle that I gingerly passed "puckered up" high above gear, the flow gave way to an additional 1000' of steep snow and ice to 50' mostly good neve'and solid ice that we climbed ropeless.This deposited us at a prominent notch in the north ridge, we soloed out the notch maybe 40'of easy 4th class with snow before ropeing up for a rock pitch that had a fixed yellow alien, the lead carried upward then went hard left through a very insecure series of off balance moves on really poor feet and worthless tool placements,felt 5.8/. one more lead of easy mixed and steep snice over a short but steep wind blown ridge crest saw us on the west side of the N.ridge, ropes away and the long and sometimes very exposed ridge required an additional 1000' of route finding, down climbing into a deep notch and false summits that were non the less exausting, we finally topped out just pass 3:00pm after 12 hrs on the go A brief snack,high fives and we were now racing the fading light and tempetures down the corkscrew route which none of us were familiar with, incoming clouds made rt.finding issues not so trivial and were further made difficult by nightfall and fading headlamps, the traverse over two passes and basins went supisingly well given the w/x lack of knowledged and whiteout conditions..we were relived to finally make it back to our poles were we could put ourselves in autopilot mode and make the slog back to the car and well deserved beer. I want to thank Braden and Will for an amazing time to a cool place on a fun adventure climb..This was the first time I had met Will and the first time any of had climbed together-it was the beginning of some fun things to come! photos to come soon..thanks for reading.. "Full moon Fever"- New route? IV,AI4R,50',5.8,3000' West Face of Sloan Peak 7835' Braden downey,Will hinkley,Kevin hogan 12/10/2011-lunar eclipse Gear Notes: 3 pins set of stoppers .00,green alien,orange tcu,.75,1,2,3 8 screws 7 draws-3 alpine,3normal,1dbl lentgh Approach Notes: Mt.loop Hwy> FR 4906> Bedal basin trail to bottom of face rd 4906= packed snow and ice,4x4 with some balls or chains reccomended Bedal basin trail= broken trail inn now No flotation needed
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seeking Any info specifically an overview of all existing lines currently from reliable/informed people about past activity on the West facing aspect of this amazing peak! trying to dot my I's and cross my T's per say..thanks alot, kevin
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[TR] Dragontail - Triple Couloirs 12/9/2011
Taluscat replied to yasso1am's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
could of done it in a day if not for that gynormous sub sammy whieghing you down yasso!!!! -
OK,OK,so D&V! now i know the reason for repeat direct hits to your voicemail...absolutely stunning and fun TR as always, you guys truly are living it..2gether, awesome...definitly not a F.B.A this time (wink) though i see you cant climb anything w/o that shoestring W. hiske T. ango F. oxtrot.!!! are the drinks spiked? now its time to climb cold stuff,when n where? Kevo
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Identify crag area and accurate description pay shipping and its yours again...
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FS: Cams, biners, stoves, axe, sleeping bag, more
Taluscat replied to kurthicks's topic in The Yard Sale
hicks! open a shop, but keep givin me the knackered shit for free!wink,wink.... kevo -
So I've tried this without photos and had a little success, possibly photos will help increase these statistics- The folllowing items for sale are legit in good working order and the condition stated is honest, prices exclude shipping though I will ship promptly upon sale. FIRST UP) OR Brooks range overboots size large Mens boots to size 11.5 just in time for Denali NEVER USED-- 65.00 SECOND) Authentic Oakley Classic style sunglasses black frames/rose lenses perfect for sunny days craggin,fair cond. case inc.---- 25.00 THIRD) North face down jacket 700 fill mint cond no tears or holes loosing the geese----40.00 FOURTH) Northface Foxfire 0' down bag 770 fill long rt hand zipper lots of lofty goodness clean and in great cond-- 150.00 FIFTH ITEM) Snow fluke--10.00 LAST BUT NOT LEAST) Leki super makalu trekking poles with positive angle quark grips, one pole missing bottom leg(these are cheap thru leki) snow baskets included good cond. 50.00
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looking for a descent pair of aluminum or steel 10/12 point cleets that are fully strapon style- petzl,camp,black diamond- if you have a pair of these and would lkike to sell them, PM me..
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Petzl Darts & Dartwins (1 heel piece assembly)
Taluscat replied to Chris Graham's topic in The Yard Sale
hey there chris im intrested whats is the shipping to area code98225? -
[TR] norway - rjukan - various 3/2/2011
Taluscat replied to spionin's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Holy moly Doug,Veronique- this takes the cake!!! way to go you two,what an awesome adventure... -
my beta input: mobile closed during winter the power plant mentioned is owned by edison hydro elec.no access issues currently, park accordinly. chains reccomened for hwy 395 and especially the access rd in case. 70m ropes really helpful especially at the user freindly chouinard falls, 3-4 bolted anchors located here. the bard harrington wall is open again- flotation reccomended if recent snowfall approach is aprx, 35m-1hr pening cond. if shit hits the fan go to june lakes roadside ice crag/5min walk only caveat here is getting a toprope up is not so jive so have a ropegun on board.. really fun venue,enjoy..
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N.F.- hooded synthetic jacket/lrg. good cond-50.00 N.F.- down 700 jacket/red in color mint cond-40.00 N.F.- down 0' sleeping bag/long left zip mint cond-150.00 2 pairs Grivel G-14 crampons/ both good cond- 100.00 1 pr. lowe alpine attack 20L. pack/ rough shape though intact great crag bag-15.00 1 pair Petzl aztar ice tools/adze,hammer extra picks-180.00pr 1 Pair Petzl quark ice tools both hammers- 225.00pr 1 Pair leki trekking/ski poles,positive angle quark handle - 75.00 1 BD blizzard harness/large-20.00 1 BD alpine bod harness/ Lrg neverused- 20.00 1 snow fluke- 15.00 all prices are best offer, can assure the condition is legit-
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[TR] Bonanza Peak - W Peak and Company Glacier Ski 2/15/2011
Taluscat replied to Gaston's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
forest-YOU are supercharged...nice job!!!! Kevo -
D-bo-nice job!! way to get in there while the weather skirt was up!! get a camera you clown..
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Trip: Colorado: - Whorehouse hoses: Date: 1/14/2011 Trip Report: Today EE and i headed to Silverton to visit the whorehouse and sample the ever so classic goods..we opted to start up the right side for full value 70m first pitch , a little snicey and really steep/ fun to follow..we soloed pitch two and finished with a nice steep 45m 3rd pitch, a fun day out with a good partner and beautiful w/x...enjoy the pics. Gear Notes: 9 Screws 10 draws Poles for the hike Approach Notes: 20 min packed trail.
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[TR] North Carolina - Various NC Ice Climbs 12/30/2010
Taluscat replied to Julian's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
hey there julian, im a southeren fried ice climber originally and nevermind the neysayers theres great ice in them thar hills like whitesides in cashiers n.c has a classic 3 pitch route called starshine that deserves your attention and is a right of passage per say,also check out winding stair gap.. if you need any 411 or contacts let me know ill be happy to help you out.. -
send the gnar d,v,z and double p!! yeahh...
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FS: Big Wall Gear Blowout - Yates, FISH, CCH Alien
Taluscat replied to giza's topic in The Yard Sale
Steve-o ,the russian aider thing would make a great tie, don't cast it- ends at midnight,WTF... -
have a north face zero degree bag-micro fiber shell-750 fill with 6" loft,like new condition slept in less than 14 days 200.00obo.
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kurtis-kevo here ("high ho silver" awaits) lets saddle up and send...
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It is a excellent route possessing all alpine qualities and mediums-loose rock,good rock,interesting route finding an abseil or two,steep snow -long and committing... given theres routes throughout the range that are shorter in elevation gain and hold a higher overall grade it fair to say its a grade IV-IV+ with Aprx. 3000' of terrain and a lot of that time consuming traverses and transitions... Scott M and I managed it 2 days ago in 8 hours camp to camp and had a fabulous time ..good job to to you guys for finishing this elegant line...
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D and V shreddin the gnar! looks like you had good times,nice job you guys!!
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hey rocketboy, liberty ridge,rainier-snice/50-60' n.face,mt maude/snow/50' n.ridge mt.baker/snow,ice to/65' sherpa glacier,mt.stuart snow,ice/60' n face,mt shuksan/snice/60. these typically dont have "mixed climbing" except the oddball move or two through a thin rockband cond. dependent - all are moderate climbs in commitment though offer a variety of charecteristic challenges and cascade locals...have a good time out there..
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well done dan you might have felt tiny out there but youre balls are huge considering all the ski lines youve ripped this past season! awesome job.. kev-o