Lucky Larry

That's good advice. You probably got no response about adding guy points on the walls because it is a bad idea. The (formerly) Malibu Epic 1.6 oz fabric that BD used on that tent and its replacement is not strong enough to handle the stresses that a mid-panel anchor point would create. That is why the only guy line attachments on the BD tents are at the seams, and close to the ground to boot. Take a look at the Bibler tents and you'll see that the mid-panel anchor points are reinforced. Trying to turn an ultralight BD tent into a 4-season Denali tent is like trying to drive a sports car across the Sahara Desert. In both cases you'll end up with a lot more holes in it than when you started. duly noted

I was looking at some g12 classics at a shop and noticed that the front toe strap was fastened to the inside of the front toe posts and commented that this did not look correct-this was the only classic they had. It just doesn't seem like the boot should be bearing against the plastic strap instead of the steel post. Yvon Chouinard said a crampon should fit so tightly to the boot that it won't fall off; even before it is strapped on. Ido not understand why boots like the la Sportiva Trango are sold with a heel plate for a pneumatic binding when it is such a soft boot. I thought, perhaps mistakenly, that the recommended boot for all pneumatic binding has tobe a stiff soled boot. Also, I have Camp crampon w/classic binding and it seems to shift/slip some on the boot. It just seems like in the race to make crampons lighter, by eliminating some of the posts (they use to have 8 in the old days), they shift/slip more on the sole of the boot. The pneumatics dig into my heels. Feedback appreciated.

BD got back to me and said to place it endo to the wind and stake guy lines at corners at 45 degrees. I did not get a response to my asking about customizing it with additional guy points on sidewalls.

That sucks really bad.

or anywher e4 that matter:almost slipped on the dry needles/leaves(very slippery indeed Watson) at beacon once upon a time

I've always thought "elitist" was a better description... spray is for spraying, stick to the facts madam.

I was up on copper spur on 7-14 and turned around at 9500ft because I was tired and not inspired by the bottomless cream corn under a shallow, approx 4" crust, of breakable sugar and ice filo dough. Met this guy at 8400ft at 230am on his way up while I was heading down. He was going over the top and down to timberline lodge to pick up his bicycle and ride back to the north side to get his car: he said he was 59 y/o and does not do social climbing internet; but was very friendly. He said He had had trouble finding partners in the past and mostly solos. I far as I could tell by his headlight he had moved lightening fast up to where i met him. I checked on his progress as I headed back to camp at 5800 ft. The conditions may have slowed his progress because at 430 am it seemed like he still had 1000ft, or more, to go to the summit. I moved my camp to the base of the snow dome and headed up at 230 am the next day only to get shut down by fatigue and even worse surface conditions at about 9200ft- I just didn't have what it takes to go on: energy, confidence. I am no expert but the surface conditions and what was underneath it did not seem good for someone of my level, or lack of, recent experience.

I agree it has its' place but it's not 'blowin in the wind'

That face looks familiar:slow larry

heyzues, I am just now figuring out how to navigate this ship Jim--beam me up. 4 soome unexplained reason I thought i would get an e-mail if anyone made a comment about a post that I have made.Q: do I always have to look back at all posts I've made to see if there has been a response? By bthe way ; did u ever get a knew rope? I mean--new, new or just knew to u?

good suggestion cause I really do not want to spend more$

yep' not to mention I had a flat when i got back to the car, but a good spare;which may not have been a good thing cause I almost drove off the road while dozing.

Rather than be blatantly dishonest and take advantage of a store's generous return policy, we could be ethical about it and pay Cascade Designs $10-15 dollars to repair the problem. If it's irreparable, they often will give you a new pad for free... a much better way to interact with a company's warranty/return system than scamming REI. As climbers, we can perpetuate each other's dirtbag ways, or perhaps we can perpetuate better practices. For the record I was joking. The only time I will push the limits on what is ethical in regards to the REI return policy is when it involves a crappy REI brand piece of equipment. In which case I end up spending more money on a good piece of gear. In no way is REI ethical, I use to work there; however, always strive to be ethical yourself if you can, and meet the challenge--I haven't.

I really like the way it fits me better than any pack I've owned and the way it packs, but all those adjustable straps that become too long when i cinch them down for a smaller load start whipping me in a heavy wind. I'm beginning to think it's not that great if I have to take a whipping from the mountain and the pack too.

had to shorten the front rear anti-bot clips so they wouldn't interfere w/the pin plate which was holding the boot away from contact with the crampon frame. also had to unhitch anti-bot from heal post; again it was holding the boot away from making contact w/the frame. also ran the adjusting bar under the anti-bot on the heal; same issue as above. This crampon fit my la Sportiva tangos really well but not my Sportiva Nepals: the heals are too narrow for the frame. In no way did I modify the frame itself.

not very good in heavy wind.

day#2 well, I'm home after getting blown out of my site at 2am this morning at 7800ft. I was in a BD firstlight tent, single wall job, w/2 poles. Let's just say that I felt like I was wrestling w Benp inside a balloon that was collapsing, and u already know who was wining. Needless to say, the tent brakes down fast in the wind-which is great; putting it up in it is another story: not good in wind blast. As I'm wrestling with it I'm trying to get things in order to make the great escape, and still can't find my f'in headlamp. Note to self: always have things in order on the boat. As I descend, with crampons and poles, i take my time so as not to be blown down/trip the kind'a soft snow slope when I hear and see something go skidding buy--it's my tent pole. Now I'm traversing to the opposite shore, and remind myself not to to drop too much while I'm traversing. A few minutes later and boom--it's there right in front of me--duh. The wind is still blowing when I reach Jeff park, I haven't slept much the past two nights so I call it a day and head for the TH. Day #1 made it to the campsite w a little wind that night; not bad. On the way up: tell 2 guys at TH they won't need snow shoes and they thank me, pass 2 guys coming down who said they got to the top of Jeff glacier and bailed due to 2ft. powder snow that they said may slide. At 2 am I here a party of 3 tromping by. I keep waking and looking out to see their progress. At 4am I decide to run after them; I mean go up the same way. On the way I have to do a wardrobe change. I pull my boot off to get a pant shell off because I stupidly did not bring the ones I always bring: the zip offs. Now my boot is starting to slide away to the terminus of Jeff glacier--somehow I grab it. I catch up to, I mean run across, the party of 3 coming down from a saddle at 9K ft: it's a guide from timberline and 2 clients and he remarks how beautiful it is-- I agree . He tells me it's windy at the saddle. I get up there, sit down, retie my boots and get the heck out of that wind tunnel while my snot is flying everywhere; I don't even look around because I'm cold now and head back to camp, have some food and head back out to explore up the N. ridge. I work up the ridge to about 8400 ft and the wind is back, take a picture and explore a little to the east and down where I find a future potential camp. Meet this guy that is out scrambling when I start talking his ear off about climbing and he's not even a climber. I apologize. You meet the nicest people sometimes.Back at the TH my car had a flat; fortunately the spare worked.

great site photos

Anyone interested in heading to Mt. Jefferson Park? Leaving on July 4 for 3-4 nights; I'm 54 so I have to do this in stages instead of single day push. This trip is more to improve my snow/ice/c-rescue skills and re-con but if I feel good could turn into summit bid. If I don't get back to u this pm it's due to bad internet connection so call 503.577.8762 Also willing to go back up there again very soon after this trip. I'm in Salem, OR. I would appreciate someone with stronger skill/experience level if possible. I could also meet you up there.

Whitewater road is clear and open. Snow is starting to melt out around lakes in Jeff Park, snow was firm in early a.m. Summit is covered in rime ice; as viewed from the road. I did not summit; however, I met a guy named Forrest (Turinthelost @ CC) at 7400ft, from Corvallis Or, who said he made the summit via Jeff glacier last weekend. He said it was an epic. They got a late start and temp was high; also, they got a rope stuck and left it behind on bollard they rapped off of. He said he might post.

icy crust, who'd believe it? just shows u don't know 'till you go. 20 mile approach:burly.

yeh, i thought it might be , just getting anxious with all the aerobic f'in exercise I'van doing.

anyone want to check out copper spur? or is this nunsense?

Yeah that was us, we waited a bit and watched, lots of wet slides in the expected areas but I think Asgaard was reasonably safe. I knew it would be more solid than the Colchuck glacier route. We had great step kicking snow all the way up till near the top. We had a great camp up on the ridge with an awesome sunset and didn't bother putting on the snowshoes until the next day. I'll post some pics tomorrow. We just did the loop and hiked up Little Annapurna, foregoing Dragontail because of the avy/rockfall danger. wow, i'm really surprised that the snow was good for step kicking; Colchuck wasn't: how did u know that, or did you?

can't delete post; why?