stevetimetravlr

Windy spot in the easterlies over there at Dods and Free for All area. I got buffeted on Free For All one time on a super windy day and it didn't feel good. Hanging by a handjam while your body is stretched out horizonally in the wind. Well, maybe not but it sure felt like you could do that no problem.

Here is Plaidman's (Scott's) TR on it. Looks pretty scary to me! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=907095

Nice one! Doesn't look like a Picnic. So what do you think abraded the rope? Jugging over a edge, or the wind blowing the rope back and forth, or Kenny at Beacon 3 weeks ago, or varmits? Hairy scary.

On Winter Delight, whats up with the runout to the first bolt? I was going to lead it and started up with my new TC Pros on, but they don't smear well and I felt very insecure on them, as the footholds in one place are very slabby smeary and I couldn't feel them. So decided to come back another day with my slab shoes. I guess i didn't have my big set of bullocks on that day either....mew

Does anyone climb at Midnight anymore? Its the best crag in the Leavenworth area for crack climbing without compare, but I never see any trip reports or photos on it besides this one. I haven't been there in years but next summer got to get back as miss the place. Years ago we were running down the trail one evening and my friend jumped over an enormous rattlesnake curled up sleeping on the trail. 10 feet long, must have been a timber rattler.

Have the few bolts in Rollercoaster chimney been upgraded?

Tear it up Plaidman! Hey who saids Beacon is choss hasn't looked to closely. this don't look to chossy..... but if you are climbing up those blocks to the right of Lost Warriors, all bets are off! Joseph, you got some major league kahonies for going up there!

I just have to say it scares the crap out of me to contemplate going up thru those hanging blocks. That has got to be some freaky exploratory climbing you guys are doing. Today I didn't see anyone climbing there or anywhere except Jim O and party hiking out below us. Man it was windy. At one point I had to lock both hands in the crack and pull myself in and hold on for like a minute as I thought the wind was going to tear me off. Wild day with Rick H.

camp in a cheap hotel

Good on ya Scott! Way to be aggro. Takes allot of motivation to haul all that gear around,and all the way to Monkey Face by yourself, yikes.

The wife topping out yesterday around 6.

Very fine day at Beacon today. Not a breath of wind, great temps, and the rock was pretty dry. YW and Crusing looked wet still. SE Corner with the wife was great and did last pitch by headlamp,it gets dark at 5:30 now. Saw Jim O in the parking lot, but didn't hear anyone else on the rock after the first pitch.

If you onsite free soloed YW, thats pretty dicey. Pulling on those scary flakes on pitch 2 would freak me with no rope, and pitch 3 and 4 and 5, fairly sustained for a onsite free solo. Very impressive. I am thinking of taking the wife up SE corner today, should be in shape, don't you think?

Styling climbing Beacon and Squamish from a boat!

queer beer

Is Crazy Horse that thin fingers crack 15 feet to the left of Jills on the last pitch? Has anyone done the crack where you traverse out of the crack right on the second pitch of Blownout to another crack? I can't remember the name but it looks wild.

That move on Jills Thrill is no harder then the crux move on Aries. So that would make Jills Thrill 5.8. Just saying...

Getting back to the discussion of Little Wing at Beacon. Its a good climb and has that one section, but I think Aries at the Town wall is stouter for a 5.8. Anyone second that notion? Its not hard by Index standards, but right off the start offwidth move or two that gets the blood pumping and is kind of physical if you're not warmed up. Then a second crux in the thin fingers crack up above, finger lockers with nothing for feet, so just yard thru it. Second pitch is flaring chimney with crack in back and then undercling at the top.

but have you done the final, final pitch of Young Warriors. Where when you join the SE corner route, instead of joining it, you traverse right around the corner and then up a ways to a pin and then thru some scary hanging blocks and then onto the last bit of the SE corner? Because I was told I hadn't climbed Young Warriors until I did that pitch....so i did it, but I don't think I'll do it again.

well he does wear a kilt.....I'm just saying Scotty.....not a good thing if you're belaying him and didn't like his Smith Rock Detour TR....

Be the ball Danny...

Trout Creek is crack central, no question. but there is something endearing about the ambiance of Beacon and having a waterfall running down your sleeve. Plus you can't hang out on a ledge at the top of Trout Creek without getting bit by a rattler.

Sometimes I climb hard, but then I think a sad thought and it goes away.

23 degrees and snowing hard at Timberline this morning.

Pimpsqueak looks stellar, sweet TR!