stevetimetravlr

I don't have any problem with that move, I just figure its 5.10. Its hard for me to think seriously about one crimpy move after doing Liberty Crack yesterday.

I'm not doing pitch 5 no mo due to the rockfall adjacency and the loose block Joseph mentioned due to the rockfall. I was up it first thing this season and didn't realize until I got up there how close it it to the scar.....spooky. but I think pitch 5 is about 5.7 that pitch 3 crux Joseph, its a crimpy little move and if you're not a crimper its stout. I can go with 5.9 because its only one move and the pin right there.

pitch 1 5.8 pitch 2 5.9 pitch 3 5.8 with a 5.10 move past the pin. In fact I think the pin is to reef on if you don't feel like making the move! pitch 4 5.9 the fact you can step left to avoid the direct pullover kind of takes the stiffness out of it

I have never heard that Leavenworth has a high cancer rate either, but there is allot I don't know. I do know that my friend Bill Nigbor who grew up in Leavenworth died at the age of 19 from a rare cancer. He was fine when college got out in June in 1978 and dead 3 months later. I still miss the guy. One of the few non-climbers I knew who had ever been into Coney Lake and one heck of a individual. Rest in peace old buddy.

Me? I don't really care one way or another but if the main developers want it in the guide, then their wishes seem to carry the weight. You have valid points about the parking Joseph, but Ozone still abides even with the parking baloney. I doubt I will frequent the place so its no skin off my lazy sport climbing ass.

What difference would it make? Its not like there are thousands of trad climbers waiting to rush the place.

yeah, I've been there. Kind of like Ozone without the bolts and dolts, but with a little more moss and choss and broken glass and no cute ass.

but I want it in the guide, what about me and my feelings?

E-burg, one of the best towns on the planet.

so I suggested to Jim that the Free for All/Dods/Dastardly link-up which is up one single crack and perfect line be changed to FreeDD. Abreviating the above names down to one short one. I think he about had a stroke before he managed to say he didnt think it was such a good idea. I told him I was just yanking his chain.

There is no anchor on Dods jam by/below the tree currently. Something manky in the crack right above where you belay below the tree, old pin?

Bouncy, if you didn't get a adrenalin boost, I sure did. My hands were shaking after seeing that happen and I felt sick to my stomach. I couldn't believe it didn't even seem like you were injured at all. Glad to have you still on the planet. Like I said, someone was watching over you, I firmly believe that.

I was at the 2nd belay on the corner. He was doing the last rap on Jills to Snag Ledge. Bad description on my part.

As the Beacon turns. This afternoon racing up the corner with Rick and I was watching a guy rapping Jills Thrill to Snag Ledge from the 2nd belay on the se corner. All of a sudden, he screamed and fell off the rope and past the anchors and disappeared. He had rapped off one of the ends of his rope. He did not have a middle marker on this rope and didn't pull enough thru. He was about 15 feet above the anchors when he blew, and he fell out of my sight and I thought for sure he was history, going the 100 feet to the ground but he somehow miraculously wedged against the block you pull over right at the top of the first pitch of the corner, and after a bit came crawling back up to the anchors. He told me he should be dead, and I agreed with him. Holy shit!

Isn't that a photo of the hangers off of Calling Wolfgang at Index? A couple years before that incident my friend Mark was climbing Danas Arch and he broke a hanger under body weight,must have been the same batch of hangers, some weird stainless plating?

So as I started up Crusing yesterday, there was a very large bird wing at the base, and then another one higher up. As I climbed the little crack, I pulled out pieces of feather with blood on them. Looks like something ate a very large bird, the wings look like a raptor? The wings were big enough that they had to be some sort of raptor i would think. Do peregrines eat hawks? The bits and pieces are below Crusing below the trail. Either that or a eagle ate a peregrine!

The point is not really that he replaced the bolts. People do that all the time in all the areas. That's great. You're right, I could care less about that bolts location. Its that he jumps all over everyone else for doing exactly what he does, no one is allowed to make the judgement calls but him. That's not OK.

I haven't seen Plaidman take any trips, except to Smith Rocks. and I paid for the gas and the food on those two trips because I know he is kind of down and out right now. I haven't noticed him with any new gear, what new gear does he have Ms. Ex-Plaidman? The guy hardly has a pot to piss in, and all I know is he is always on the hunt for work. There are allot of people in survival mode right now with the economy, and because you can't squeeze blood out of a turnip is no reason for Scott to roll over and die and give up climbing. You talk a good line and I don't know any of the particulars in the Plaidmans ex-relationship, but if you have a job maybe you should be the one paying the alimony and child support. On other words, if he can't find a job, maybe you should go to work. Sometimes thats hard for a prima donna to accept....

I've climbed it 3 times this season, and I wish we could have spoken with Jim prior to the retrobolting, and perhaps got his permission to move the bolt that you have to reach far left to clip on the 2nd pitch, maybe move it up on the slab above you, it creates all the rope drag on the pitch. But its to late now, all retrobolted with stainless steel that will be there forever......what sad times when passing ruffians can bolt at will. Started on Crusing, then Jills Thrill and Uprising. Nice chill mellow day, it was clouldy and chilly to start around noon, but it warmed up and the clouds burned off. The SE corner was a zoo.

Where da Loving Arms?

Alasdair, just wonder the motivation behind such a ton of work and effort? Is this volunteer work or a job?

Hey mr Hands, Thanks for posting that even though it wasn't met for you, but my biking/climbing buddies from Seattle. I think you're a friggin troll and a lameass, hiding behind the internet. You just started posting yesterday and you want to step forward and show your face or are you just a chickenshit artist like I think you are? FYI, that was the first time I used a Silent Partner 3 years ago and I thought was on a 5.6 Broadway, but ended up on the first pitch of Young Warriors by mistake. Whoopde doo, what the fwk business is it of yours what I do?

Using the rationalization that Joseph used to re-do Young Warriors, I can do the same thing on Winter Delight. Thank you Joseph. The clip off the ground is way to perilous, so will have to move the bolt just enough so its easy to clip without worrying about breaking your legs if you come off. But it will be in basically the same place, you'll be able to see the old bolt hole,..yada, yada, yada No, I wouldn't do that, but I don't think its ok for you to do and then be holier then thou over the rest of us.

If you take that as a complement, I'm curious is that with or without vaseline? Just trying to keep it real. . Beacon brothers gotta hug!

I think Kenny's point is that while Joseph like to jump on peoples shit for even joking around or mentioning about putting in or pulling a pin or bolt or people cutting off his nylon slings that are all over Beacon, he feels empowered to install or pull any pins or bolts or anchors or slingage that HE deems neccessary. I think its great that we have new replacement bolt anchors at Beacon and those efforts are appreciated. However, he jumps all over my shit about the preservation of a route and respecting the climbers that went before us, etc, regarding a off the cuff comment I made, while at the same time he modifies a route in direct violation of the wishes of the first ascentionist who is in the house. This double standard, and also the down talking to people, is what has made me feel like he should be called on it. I am sure you'll come up with some great putdown as to why I am such a idiot and don't know jackshit about Beacon Joseph, but you seem to have a sense of entitlement that you don't extend to anyone else. Justin, did you really loose one of your balls? Does that mean no more leading?