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Doug Shepherd

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Everything posted by Doug Shepherd

  1. Because of big toe surgery (thanks genetics!) and continued Alaska climbing (thanks John!) I need to clear out some gear to help pay the bills. All prices OBO and buyer pays shipping from 87544. black diamond cyborg crampons - SOLD heavily used. Honestly best for a beater or loaner crampon. Comes with four other used front points. photo #1 camp quartz CR3 harness - SOLD size large barely used. extra harness lying around for friends. photo #1 mammut ajungilak altitude 3-season sleeping bag (5F) - SOLD size long (195 cm) This a great down bag that has a Pertex Endurance shell with 800 fill power down. It's the previous generation of the design, so it's a bit different from the model on the Mammut website. Always kept in a storage bag. One small repair on the spindrift collar with clear repair tape. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 SOLE softec response footbeds - $20 size US12 unused. Awesome footbeds, I just found the gray ones work better for me. photo #1 photo #2 kayland 6001 ice boots- SOLD size US13 decent condition. I used these boots heavily and it shows. Lots of seam grip around the rand, worn down soles, but they'll still take crampons and keep you warm. Come with green super feet. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 photo #4 kayland ice dragon fruit boots - SOLD size US 13 good condition. I like these boots, but again I can't quite get my foot in them after surgery. They come with an extra set of front points, heel spurs, and the back pieces. I have seam gripped the rands to keep them from coming apart. The pull tabs on one inner boot broke, but it doesn't make a difference. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 scarpa phantom 6000 double boots - $200 size US 13 Good condition. These are the original red Phantom 6000 boots with Intiution liners (never molded) that are beefier than the current model, but also warmer. I've used these on some cold big rigs and always been really happy with them. I need a bigger toe box after the surgery and changed boot models because of that. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 scarpa vapor lace climbing shoes - $50 size EU45 used for two pitches. I love these shoes, but there is no way that I'm going to be able to wear them after my surgery. photo #1 photo #2 photo #3 rab cirrus windtop - $40 size large great condition. this is a replacement for another windbreaker that I thrashed while climbing. comes with small stuffsack. photo #1 rab boreas pull-over - $60 size large great condition. stretchy, abrasion resistant, and stuffs into it's own pocket. Awesome cool weather running or rock climbing hoody. photo #1 arc'teryx squamish windshell - $50 size large good condition. Half-zip version. I've used this shell a bunch. Packs up small into it's own pocket and just works. photo #1 patagonia dimension jacket - $75 size large good condition. one hole in the mesh backing of the pocket. made with EPIC-treated fabric (like the BD tents), so super waterproof for a soft-shell. photo #1 photo #2 rab baltoro alpine guide jacket - $100 size large great condition. older version with powershield in the arms/body and breathable powerstretch pro panels underarm. photo #1
  2. Arc'teryx, Patagonia, Mammut, Rab, BD, etc... gear

    Hah! Not for sale I'm afraid. Although I am on the search for the next pair of ugly pants now after using green and blue pants for the last two AK trips.
  3. [TR] Beartooths - Ice Dragons 11/6/2010

    Nice job guys! It looked great last week from the valley, psyched you got on it. Those plateau's are horrible in a white-out, aye? Glad you made it back safe and sound.
  4. New Nomic Old Nomic

    Yes. I climbed with a friend last weekend who had fitted the new pommels onto the old Nomic. Said it wasn't hard at all, I didn't press for details because I don't have Nomics.
  5. Gamma MX

    The face fabric is the choice of the company who constructed the jacket. You can bond eVent (just like Goretex) to any number of different styles of face fabric. I put a bunch of holes in my eVent jacket chimney climbing as well. It sucks but that isn't eVent's fault. It's my fault for taking an extremely lightweight hard shell up a chimney. You're right to blame the manufacturer (in your specific examples, Westcomb and Lowe Alpine) for the face fabric choice, not eVent.
  6. Gamma MX

    What exactly wore out on your friends' jacket? The membrane or the face fabric?
  7. New Petzl Ice Tools

    Wow, that was quick. Off to a new home!
  8. New Petzl Ice Tools

    I have four Cascade and one Quad pick for the old Quarks (I think those names are right? The B and T picks) that I'm not using anymore. They are very worn, but I'm sure some handy work with a file or a trip to Dane will make them usable for a bit longer. At worst, they are beater picks for dry-tooling. Anyways, whoever PMs me first their address gets them for free, I'll just toss them in the mail.
  9. The dangers on ice?

    Have you been on Home Field Advantage?
  10. The dangers on ice?

    Have you been to that climb? There is NO way that falling ice would of hit Bryan even if the whole climb came down. That perspective definitely doesn't give a good idea of how sheltered the belay is. Falling on bolted mixed climbs is pretty damn common. Personally, I wouldn't want to fall on that particular climb, but have done my sharing of falling off bolted roofs when trying to pull onto the ice. That said, John needs to stop falling on pure ice climbs.
  11. HD Video / Camera or Flip?

    I have the Panasonic LX3 and it is an awesome camera! The HD video is takes is quite good, but is 720p @ 24 fps and you can't zoom while shooting. All of the climbing videos that I've made this season have been shot on one. The lens is the best thing about this camera and I definitely consider it a great point and shoot camera that happens to take decent video. That said, I broke down and picked up a Sanyo VPC-CG20 for 180 bucks. It shoots both 1080p @ 30 fps and 720p @ 60 fps, has a 5x optical zoom and so far seems really nice. The best feature? It weighs about 6 oz with battery and SD card. It is part of Sanyo's "dual camera" line, which shoot both photos and videos. The photos are 10MP, but are no where near the quality of the LX3. If you aren't too worried about publishing your photos and just want them for the web, etc... and want to shoot video, definitely check out the whole dual camera range from Sanyo, there are higher end models that have better sensors and more features.
  12. Tendon Ropes?

    The Monster 7.8mm twins/doubles are hands down the best set of skinny ropes I've ever used. I've owned or heavily used offerings from Beal, Petzl, Bluewater, Mammut, and Sterling. I am amazed at how much abuse I was able to put my first set through before I had to buy new ones, which I'm using now. The first set survived 2.5 ice/mixed seasons (average about 70 days a season), a 6 week trip to South America, a week trip to Alaska, and two alpine rock seasons. The dry coating is very very good. I got them stuck (in a pouring waterfall) rapping the sixth pitch of Broken Hearts in Cody and had to walk around to free them. They had almost completely dried out by the time we finished the walk off. I don't have any experience with the single cords, but highly recommend the twin/doubles.
  13. Colin "distilled"?

    The knowledge that Mark shared is hard won. No matter what you read on the internet, you need to get out and slowly strip your system down to what works. Steve was rescued in about an hour because he: 1. Had his cell phone 2. Was on Mt. Temple where there is cell phone recption 3. Was in Canada where the rescue is unbelievable 4. Had a heads up partner in Bruce Again, here's to Steve's recovery, that is what's important.
  14. Colin "distilled"?

    I had avoided posting in this thread, but mentioning Steve House... He had a really bad fall this past week on Mt. Temple. Here's to his recovery!
  15. Cody Conditions 3/13-14/10

    You picked two of the easiest approaches (for major routes) and also trade routes which are extremely fat this season. There is definitely big adventure to be had in the Southfork! Glad you had a good time! Head back and try out some of the harder routes next season, there's lots to do!!
  16. kayland 6001?

    Since they are stiffer and louder, you have a little harder time sneaking up on baa than a lighter boot. BUT, since they are warmer, you can lie in wait longer without getting cold toes. It's a trade-off for sure, but one well worth it in my opinion.
  17. kayland 6001?

    The 6001s are single boots, so comparable to the Batura and the Phantom Guides. The fit is extremely similar to an M11/M11+, but a bit roomier in the toes. Kayland re-did their boot sizing with the M11+ and these boots, so you'll need to find them or try on an M11+ then call Kayland to get what size you need. I LOVE them as they are very warm but low cut on the inside, so they still climb mixed and technical terrain well. Very stiff, much more so than the M11 series. I have to wear rigid crampons with my M11s, but can wear semi-rigid crampons with the 6001s.
  18. The stainless myth?

    I have been using the new SS Cyborgs since early October. I've probably got 20+ days on them already, a lot of that use in Cody where you wear the crampons down the descent through loose scree and dirt. I'm one of those guys who usually will put 75+ days of climbing on a pair of crampons per season by the time my big alpine trip in the spring is over. I'm really impressed by the durability of these SS crampons. I've burned through two sets of Rambo IVs in the past 3 years through all the alpine mixed climbing that I do. The Cyborgs are holding up MUCH better so far. I've only had to sharpen the secondary points once, after climbing a slab mixed climbing route in the Flatirons near Boulder, CO. The anti-balling plates are holding up the Cody trashing and I've been able to dial the fit in very nicely to my Kayland boots. My two complaints are number one, having to cut the anti-balling plates to get to the monopoint setup, not something I was expecting and a bit of a pain in the ass to do. Number two, it took me a few tries to get the fit exactly dialed even after they seemed securely attached. I had one of them try and pop off leading the traverse on The Big Sleep and did have one come off on leading The Thrill Is Gone. A quick adjustment on the heel bail pressure has fixed the problem and it hasn't shown up since. I wasn't a fan of the previous generation of BD crampons (the Bionic years) but these SS Cyborg are a totally different beast. I've done everything from climb hard ice to scary trad mixed to technical bolted mixed climbing and am still on my first set of monopoints with them. Highly recommended.
  19. 55L pack reviews?

    Before you discount Cilogear based on one review, which has some valid complaints and some, well, interesting ones, talk to women who have used them. Cilogear makes a custom women's hipbelt which works quite well. I've destroyed a lot of packs, including BD, Cilogear, Wild Things, and Lowe Alpine. Sometimes you just need to know not to use a superlight pack for everyday beater use or be prepared to use a lot duct tape. One of the best packs I own is the old BD zippo, which is a bit heavy, but is pretty much indestrucable. My current favorite pack is a dyneema Cilogear 30L, which has seen a lot of abuse in the past 1.5 years, is still kicking strong, and is really well designed. Out of the packs you mentioned I would consider the CCW and that's it. Stay away from the BD Quantum, the amount of side zipper failures and spindrift collar problems people have had with those is staggering!
  20. Another 2010 BD Fusion Field Report

    I'm glad you're enjoying the tools. I haven't climbed anything less than WI4 with my tools and lead a few WI5/6 pitches and a few steep mixed pitches. Even on steep terrain I had lots of problems cleaning the picks. While there is definitely less bouncing as the angle kicks up, I'm pretty sure it's the combination of the steep pick angle, offset handle, and pick design that was leading to the stuck picks. Great to hear you are loving your tools.
  21. Another 2010 BD Fusion Field Report

    Not to be a dick, but I'm just curious about what kinds of ice are you guys climbing? Plastic, brittle, steepness, etc...? There are a few of us that have had a very different experience with these tools and I'm just trying to figure out if we are crazy or not.
  22. Cobra vs. Viper

    Sorry, I was replying to Fromage
  23. Cobra vs. Viper

    1. You realize the new Viper has a different geometry from the old version, right? 2. What refinements and efficiencies does the Quark posses? edit: And I say #2 as a long time Quark user who loves his Cobras (except for the picks...)
  24. Just a coffee? cheerz you can give him a coffee you can give the rope gun........ Did somebody say my name? I could of sworn I heard my name... If you enjoyed the video, please please please consider donating to the Heart of the Valley Animal Shelter in Guy Lacelle's name. Thanks.
  25. Thanks for the great days. It's always good to see/tie-in with you.