Jeff W

I suggest you don't bother with Mt Adams in 2013; does not lend itself to your objective. Instead, consider Mt Shasta or the Emmons Route on Rainier in 2013.

Mt Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier, while not a short approach, is a fantastic climb. The summit pyramid is the blocky scramble you noted. Nice setting in the North Cascades.

I will check it out. Thanks.

Because I am stuck working in Kansas for the rest of this year I need to look at climbing opportunities closer than the Cascade Range of Washington. Colorado is a reasonable trip from my location in Kansas. Doing a search for possible climbs I came across Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route. 15 miles round trip with about 4800 feet elevation gain all on class 3 granite. Sounds like an ass kicker. Anyone done this route and can comment about whether or not is worthwhile?

Looking for suggestions on carrying my ice axe on an airplane. I can't imagine they would let me take it in my carry-on pack, so would have to check a gear bag at $20 bucks per bag. The other concern with checking a gear bag is finding my axe sticking through the side of the bag at the carousel. Is it common to wrap the axe in something before stashing in the gear bag?

If that frickin dog can summit without a second/ice tool so can I! Actually, I need to break down and spring for two ice tools. Last August I borrowed two tools and spent a day ice climbing in the cravasses on lower Emmons at Camp Shurman. I can see it being easy getting hooked on ice climbing - and would be easier to do if I had my own gear.

Thanks for the advice. I may end up buying a 2nd tool; I will probably need one at some point anyway.

So I have been reading all the posts about ice above the Pearly Gates, using ice screws, running belays, yada yada. I will be flying home mid-June (Tri-Cities) and planned a quick climb of Hood during that trip. Problem is I don't own an ice tool. I have not needed one on Rainier, Shuksan, Baker, others; not sure what is the story with Mt Hood. Are the stories about women summiting in high heals and dogs prancing to the summit just bullshit? Please advise - I may need to place my order for an ice tool.

I have various softshells - Outdoor Research and Mountain Hardwear, Arcteryx Gore Tex shell, Mountain Hardwear waterproof Conduit jacket, Outdoor Research Primaloft Hoodie...From my experience getting the best shit you can afford is worth it. I have used all of it at some point on Mountain Rescue missions and training, as well as for personal climbing and have no complaint about any piece. It's comforting to know you can count on the stuff when it matters. As far as Arcteryx, I like the technical fit of their jackets.

If you are talking about the retainer clips that hold the tails of the straps in place, when mine break I replace them with plastic cable tie wraps. Leave them loose enough to tuck the tail through. They are much more durable than originals.

I suspect you mean there are no crevasses on the south climb. There are none. For overnight you will want a minimum 45L to 55L pack. You will likely be packing a tent/bivy, sleeping bag, jackets, stove and fuel, food and related stuff. As far as route finding, just make sure that on your return you pay attention to the trail below lunch counter. It's common for folks to get off trail and end up continuing down the drainage, resulting in bushwacking to hit the trail again.

Use a prusik minding pulley (PMP) at the anchor. When you pull the rope through the PMP the prusik breaks free as you pull. When you stop pulling the prusik locks off and you reset the other pulley - which does not have to be a PMP. Be sure to reset the non-PMP before pulling them too close together.

For rentals check with Whittaker Mountaineering in Ashford.

On my list of potential climbs this year is Mt Baker via the Easton Glacier, probably the third week of August. I have no experience on Mt Baker. The Easton Glacier seems to be the most clear-cut route on the mountain. Looks like the trailhead starts at Schrieber's Meadow with high camp at about 7000 feet. Is route finding relatively straightforward on this route? Is there a significant crevasse hazard? Thanks for any-and-all info.

I have not climbed Mt Hood, but can speak to Rainier and Adams. Rainier is in a different league, being a couple thousand feet higher than either Hood or Adams it makes a noticeable difference breathing during the climb. Probably the key difference about Rainier is the crevasse hazard. You need to understand route finding in areas of crevasses, and you better be prerpared to perform crevasse rescue if needed. You need to have the equipment to perform the rescue, and knowledge of setting up a 3:1 pulley system. Depending on route you can avoid crevasse hazard entirely on Adams or Hood.

For clarification, looking for gloves that perform well at altitude and/or cold weather. Last fall the temperature dropped to 5-degrees when I topped out the DC on Rainier. My gloves were not designed for that application. Don't want to repeat this season. Alti-Gloves?

I am going to spring for a new pair of mountaineering gloves this weekend. I have narrowed my choice to either Outdoor Research Alti-Gloves or Mountain Hardwear Medusa Gloves. Would appreciate input based on experience with either of these. Also, open to suggestions of other gloves of similar quality. Thanks.

A lot of great suggestions that would be a quick fix when needed. I had to check out the Grivel Cappuccino latex rubber ice axe head cover recommended by Coldfinger. I pour through gear catalogs like a kid reading the Sears Christmas Wish Book and have never seen this gizmo; pretty cool idea and only about $16 bucks. I'll probably go old school with insulation and tape...

On a particularly cold morning last fall the head of my Black Diamond Raven ice ax was so cold my hand became miserably cold carrying it. It did not help that I waited too long to put on my warmest gloves and I'm sure that contributed to the problem. With that said, can anyone suggest a method for applying an insulation layer to head? I though about using something like pipe wrap and covering it with electrician tape. I recently came across a new style ice ax that was designed with an insulating material but now I can't find it again. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I had not previously seen this pack but did check out the link you included in your post. If you are looking for a large capacity pack for short duration climbing trips this looks to be ideally suited. If you need a pack for expedition style climbing where you are carrying a lot of gear I would recommend a more robust pack with wand pockets; exterior crampon attachments, and more padding on the strap and waist belt. Take a look at the MH South Col that is relatively light yet has lots of features.

When I head into the mountains, particularly when going to unfamiliar areas, I carry my GPS, Topo, Suunto Vector watch, and compass. I always log waypoints at the car and key locations along the way. My opinion is the GPS and other stuff are good indicators so I mostly rely on paying close attention to where I am walking; my plan is to walk out without aids but have backup if needed. I have found my GPS to be very useful. Last year I did backcountry snowshoe trip outside of Spokane with lots of deep powder and 15-degrees. The map my son brought turned out to be incorrect, and rather than back track for miles in the darkness I used the GPS to bushwhack through deep woods, coming out exactly where planned, and saved miles off the return trip.

Well, this sounds like quite a story. With that said, and assuming your partner has been afflicted with "severe AMS" in the past, then it probably would have been prudent to retreat to a lower elevation and set up camp rather than continue up the mountain.

Sounds like it may be Morton's Neuroma. I "suffer" from it but mine is mainly located between 3rd and 4th toes on one foot. However one website I checked says "Morton's Neuroma is a common foot problem associated with pain, swelling and/or an inflammation of a nerve, usually at the ball-of-the-foot between the 3rd and 4th toes. Symptoms of this condition include sharp pain, burning, and even a lack of feeling in the affected area. Morton's Neuroma may also cause numbness, tingling, or cramping in the forefoot." What I find helpful is wearing shoes/boots with laces tied loosely creating more room in the toe box. It has really become a problem lately. Next on my list is orthotics.

For anyone that may be interested, I spoke with the registration office at YVCC today and they said 19 of 20 spots are currently filled. Starts on May 5 and runs through July 11.

If I may suggest a specific pack for consideration, take a look at the Lowe Alpine TFX Summit 65. The pack is very comfortable and has lots of features that are handy for mountaineering, such as the GPS pocket on the pack strap.