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Plaidman

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Everything posted by Plaidman

  1. If a climber can't figure out how to get around that gate, they should just give up on climbing and stay home.
  2. Aiding around the gate is not that hard. I've done it in my flip-flops.
  3. My wife says rats are cute too. But what does she know!
  4. DA - Corner...... [video:youtube]msSB5ev41Sk
  5. WOW! I liked the gottcha at the end. I was really surprised at the twist in the ending. Almost as twisted as you. Good stuff man!
  6. Was that practice or did you know what you were doing Buckshot? I wouldn't practice anymore.
  7. +2 sabre on castle rock +2 also. Super fun!
  8. Ditto! What Bill said. You are certainly a badass.
  9. Here is a pic of the rap off the top of The Steeple. Need double ropes. On the left of the picture you can see my less than awesome progress on my route "Brother Mike". Damn! I have a long way to go.
  10. Exciting day on "Brother Mike" route. I had to drill another hole for the first bolt when my new brush got stuck while hanging on two hooks. After drilling the new hole, pounding in the bolt and torquing the bolt to 50 psi, I clipped it and not 30 secs later the hooks blew. Great way to get started. Only 4 1/2 new bolts, but the route is shaping up. Can hardly wait to free climb it. Should have the first pitch in this weekend. Will post video soon. Camera crapped out.
  11. I got an unexpected day off tomorrow. Thurs. So I will be up at 4 am to get an early start. I will have to see how far I get.
  12. Here is my new high point. Top step of my aiders on every bolt. Hanging off knobs to get the drilling done. Top step is not saying much, as I am fairly short. We will see how well I did when it is finished.
  13. Bill - Here's my trip report. I went up, put in 3 more bolts (solo), after some scary hook moves so I could get into the top step of my aiders, I came back down. I cleared the road of rocks that had slid into the road near the waterfall and all the snow is melted off the road. So now it is a 10 min walk from the base of The Steeple back to the truck. I also hacked some devils club down, with my moss ax, on the way up and down from The Steeple. By the end of the summer it should be a fairly casual walk up to the climbs up there.
  14. Here are some pics from today. Some are of the DEEP chimney to the left of my route.
  15. I am short. Kinda like a midget but different.
  16. Sure was fun hanging out with you guys last night. I got 3 bolts of glory on my route. Now I am a bit more organized. I think the route may go faster now. I got to a blank section where I had to resort to hooks. It was quite stimulating on aid solo. Aid Solo - 3 bolts of glory.
  17. That's a fact jack. If it weren't for the climbing community there would not have been the event of recovering even a few of the cams.
  18. I am sorry to say I LOVE em. Not really. They are sometimes the right piece of gear when nothing else will work. I carry em. But did you know the black is the new pink! Size .25 One size smaller than Pink. They also make a white (size .125) that is only for aid.
  19. I will make a new video. Thanks dude. It's gonna be a good one. Here's to you "Brother Mike". This route will be a memorial to a fallen climber friend of mine. You can read about him and the accident that took his life on my blog: Why the route is called "Brother Mike"
  20. Got em back thx guys. That's 5 out of 28.
  21. Trip: The Steeple - Coethedral Area - Oregon - Beckey Route Date: 6/10/2012 Trip Report: The Empress of Adventure and I got the second ascent of the Beckey Route on The Steeple today. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/beckey-route/107617226 After a mishap with some bear scat. Her highness stuck her knee right into the crap. Now we know the answer to the question. Does a bear shit in the woods. The answer is yes. She asked me "Have you ever put your knee in bear crap?" I think I will not add that one to the bucket list. From the base I fixed lines for her Highness to make the scramble up easier for her. She belayed me across the snow field and up into the gully. I fixed the line again and set up a semi hanging belay. She belayed me through the muddy gully. It is probably a lot easier when it is dry. Good thing I had my moss ax. It was sketchy for sure. Then I got to the notch on the backside of The Steeple where the real climbing starts. I slung knobs to the top and brought her highness up. Took loads of pictures and got out of there with 3 raps off the top. There are two bolted rap anchors. You really need two ropes to rap off. We had a 70 m. rope and couldn't make it to the second rap so we added a rap off another tree on climbers right. Good day and good times. Awesome weather. Video from the adventure Gear Notes: Lots of 48" slings and biners. I took 18 slings and two cordeletts. Approach Notes: Straight up the right side from the north face. Stay next to The Steeple then take a left into the hidden gully to the notch.
  22. I am sorry to say I LOVE em. Not really. They are sometimes the right piece of gear when nothing else will work. I carry em. But did you know the black is the new pink! Size .25 One size smaller than Pink. They also make a white (size .125) that is only for aid.
  23. YEAH! I like to figure it out for myself and the beta from a 6'4" climber ain't gunna help me. As I am a midget dwarf and I don't climb well.
  24. I don't need nurturing. I need to lose weight! Couches seem to nullify the efforts in that regard.
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