Plaidman

If I buy it will you guarantee being able to flash 5.11c, off that couch? If not. I am not interested.

I call those mental pieces. I usually scream down to my partner "IT PROBABLY WON'T HOLD A FALL". Then proceed saying to myself "Don't F-ing fall, CLIMB!"

It is just a scramble. I was not even a rock climber when I did it. LOTS of people. Lots of exposure. It was a fun hike. Wear really stiff ankle protecting high boots. Get started early and get down below the keyhole before 2pm. Lightening is a real danger up there. It is amazing and really is an ass kicker. The boulder field is about a mile of house sized boulders. I did the hike in the late 90's. After the keyhole follow the bulls eye targets, red with a dot of yellow if I remember right. Here is the mountainproject link There is some good info about weather: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/longs-peak/105857350

What State would that be in?....... I was wondering where my mind went?

Don't question our questions!

I hear drinking WD-40 can take care of the rust too. You may not live to tell about it though.

He is really beside himself........with envy!

This story had a happy ending. THANK THE GODS!!!!!

I am making Rick McDonald my camera guy this weekend as my wife has mine in Colorado. Has she even taken a single picture? Maybe tomorrow she will with the nieces and nephews. The only pic I have of late is this one of The Steeple from a distance.

On "Snake Dike" I think that if you look up the term run out in the dictionary there is a topo of "Snake Dike" in the definition.

To me run out is anything over 12 feet. Which would put the fall at about 24 feet or more. Somebody can do the rope stretch calculations. But I feel like it is reasonable to go up to between 5 to 8 feet above my last piece depending on the terrain. On routes I know I generally put in less pieces cuzz I know what to expect. (Oh damn, I forgot I am not supposed to make generalizations because I am not qualified to do so.)

You are correct, as gravity is not our friend.

No prob Shapp. I guess that is a generalization as to 100 to 80 foot pitches. I have led a few that are full rope lengths and I have a 70 meter rope so I do a lot of climbing a full rope length and combining pitches when I can. If is is reasonable. I carry such a huge rack I rarely ever run out of gear. Although I have been practicing carry a light alpine rack some too. Just to see if I can do that. Single set of nuts and one set of cams on "The Corner" at Beacon Rock. Your comments were not stupid. We all have opinions. It just seems on the web these discussions seem to get to the point of who's opinion is the best and all others suck. I have just really gotten to the point of "I just like to climb". End of story. I hope more people get out to Coethedral this summer. It has to be one of my favorite places.

Note taken.

One other way you could look at the way I climb is: Murder of the Possible!

Nice. I guess I will be a forever newby. My generalization is based on the fact that most routes that are set on trad climbs are generally set up to be climbed with a 50 to 60 meter rope and that would facilitate being able to rap the route with one rope. It has been my experience in the past, having had climbed at several crags all over the western US. I'll just mention the different States, Oregon, Washington, California, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, and B.C. Canada It sure doesn't make me an expert but is has been enough to form my own opinion over the last 8 years.

Being that most trad climbs are more in the range of 80 to 100 feet(25 to 30 meters) you could certainly have enough gear with a standard rack of a set of nuts and a double set of cams from .3 to #3 size Camalots, to sew up a route. Most do not carry that much gear but when I was taught, that was the standard fare unless you know the route by heart and know where and when you are placing gear. As I love adventure climbing and getting on stuff that is not climbed often and considering my vertical disadvantage(being that I am 5'7") I place a lot of gear: 1)because I can 2)because I like to 3)I like to have the right piece for the right placement. 4)I don't mind the extra weight. 5)and because that is how I climb. Comments are closed now.

Running it out sometimes is needed. At some crags that would be the case. To run something out requires being a bad ass, stupid, or just a really great climber with nerves of steel. As I am none of those things it is really moot. (I am attempting to be funny. Have I succeeded?). The bolts are not there for the hardness or stiffness of the route. They are just for protection just as stated. I think anyone will be well pleased after giving this place a go.

Being that 55 meters is close to 180 feet and if there is a bolt every 7 feet that would be 25 bolts. It would be reasonable on a trad climb if you were sewing it up to place a piece at your feet. Especially if you were on uncertain terrain.

The routes are closely bolted. No run outs on most of the climbs, as sometimes the knobs pop off and falling and taking a whipper in knob land could be hazardous to you health. So it was decided that closely bolting would be the ethic for "THIS" area. As there are very few cracks or other features in this area, and that you are totally climbing the knobs, the bolts are close so you don't take a tumble and get F-ed up. Once you climb on these routes you will be glad the bolts are there. It really is amazing.

Trip: Coethedral - Oregon - "Better Than Sex" Date: 5/27/2012 Trip Report: Good times at Coethedral last weekend. New routes are being worked on. Climbing is being done. Mike my partner and I got on "Better Than Sex", "Rad,Plaid,and Glad", and "Coecoenut Bridge". Knobs have been tested and found to be in good shape. The snow has melted all the way to the parking lot to Coethedral and their is no snow on the cliff bands above the climbs. The rock was dry and it is ready for another fun summer season. I camped right in the parking lot and had the place all to myself from Friday night until Sunday afternoon. The solitude was nice. Glad Mike showed up to do some climbing though. We will be out next Sunday playing and there are a few others that are planning on getting on some of the harder routes. It mostly bolted knobular fun climbing. So many more routes can go up there. Gear Notes: All you need to bring is quick draws. Bring a lot as some of the routes require 24 or more draws as some of the routes are 55 meters. Bring slings for knobs if you need another piece of pro. There are some routes that need gear. Like the Salathe Highway Approach Notes: link to directions: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/coethedral/106865073

Not too much snow now. The rock is dry on Coethedral. Knobs have been tested on "Better Than Sex", "Rad,Plaid,and Glad", and "Coecoenut Bridge". Good times.

Has no one fessed up to the bootied cam?

Yup. Too much snow. We will have to wait for a couple of more weeks. Thx Geoff for posting our non progress. We bailed and climbed near Zig Zag camped and then went to Pete's Pile on Sunday. I led a 5.7 in the rain. Top roped an even wetter 5.8+. Then we hit the road for home. All in all a good outdoor adventure.

I was giving you crap and that is what I want you to understand.