Raoul Duke

Right now I have a 15 degree Marmot Lithium, and I love it. Why? Because it has kept me warm and happy anywhere from 10 degrees to 40 degrees. Pretty much does everything in the cascades. The problem is I would like to loose a pound and get a 30 degree bag. However, from my own experiences (a "32 degree" 650 fill Lafuma), that of friends, and reading the things people write on the internet, it seems like a lot of these super light 30 degree bags have a razor thin margin, as in, "at 29 degrees, you're going to be cold." So, any recommendations for a 30-32 degree bag that you've been happy with? Like, Thumb Rock happy, not car camping at Vantage happy? Thanks!

Managed to drop both a glove and a stubby screw when we were up there this February, but it would really really really surprise me if you found either!

Nicely done! So the road is snow free? How is the trail to the lake?

Found on 3/5. Email if they're yours, cliveDOTpontussonATgmailDOTcom

mhux- The snow was wind scoured and good for steps. There was one bouldery move getting onto the snow of the second couloir (the chimney thing pictured above). Felt like, I don't know, 5.9. The rocky bits were never very tricky for very long. We encountered that after rapping from the red slings on the bypass; in retrospect, it might have been better (easier, better gear) to do a traversing pitch upward from that rap station. Seems like that's what Nelson's description says to do anyways...

Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs Date: 2/5/2012 Trip Report: Had a good time and made good time climbing the TCs on Sunday, despite some slightly dry conditions... fun stuff! The Approach: The Mountain: The best part of waking up is... the fear. 1st Couloir: Bypassing the dry runnels: 2nd Couloir: 2nd Couloir Exit: 3rd Couloir: The Summit:

Here they are on 11/5 (Saturday):

Got a neighboring line picked out for "Everyone's a Critic?" Nice work...

Might throw in 2 cents. FWIW I run hot... My idea for soft shells is the thinner the better, and worn within a layer of the skin. Since these garments aren't waterproof, I figure they had better dry quickly. My best example of this is the Gamma LT pant. If you wear it in the rain, or wet snow, it gets wet. If you keep working, they will be pretty close to dry in 30 mins. Almost the same thing with my Jasper pullover from Mammut on top, but not quite. I've always seen the Atom LT as an insulating piece. I could well imagine it working as a "softshell" in high, dry, cold climates. But when things get yucky at 6-8000 feet and 40 degrees in the Cascades, I've had a hard time drying out a wet Atom LT in time to keep the fun-meter from hitting 0.

We tried the Torment Forbidden Traverse two weeks ago, and got stormed off the ridge on day 2. S. ridge of Torment took longer than we expected too. In retrospect, we belayed too much of the ridge. Once you clear that dihedral, it's time to put the mountain boots back on and start simul climbing if you want to get moving towards Forbidden. The 5.4 chimney thing a few ropelengths up is the only piece of 5th class climbing you will encounter if you keep to the line of least resistance. Beckey mentions putting the rope away once you gain the SE face. As Cameljockey indicates, yeah, good luck with that. It's 3rd/4th but it's also a mess of choss. In the downward direction it's a different story for T-F-Ters, 2 30m raps and a smidgen of downclimbing brought us to the solid ledge that leads quickly to the E. ridge col and the rest of the traverse.

Aghh, this thing was 60cm long, brand spankin' new. Last seen on Sunday 6/12, close to the Schreibers Meadow Trailhead on the way down from the Easton, could be farther back down the road towards where everyone was parked... Please let me know!

For you super-nerds who calculate your approach times down to the minute and so on, Bill's bike computer puts the distance from the closure to the trailhead on Clear Creek Road at just under 4 miles. The road makes for an easy, enjoyable ride, especially downbound. The crux: 3 o'clock rock is largely dry, And some snow still guards the top of the Granite Sidewalk: Go get it!

Hey all, I'd imagine the higher summits are getting dusted quite regularly now, but is there any significant accumulation up there, Dragontail, Stuart, etc.? Anything that would keep you from doing some chilly rock climbing, on north aspects or otherwise? Thanks in advance! Here's to the end of permit season!

Marmot Mountain Works in Bellevue has Worksacks in 3 different sizes...

Thinking of something off the Mtn. Loop Highway (but open to other areas though), a few things up there I'd like to take a look at. Happy to do an overnight itinerary, Saturday-Sunday. Send a pm and we can compare to-do lists.

Here's what Alpinfox and I are talking about, photo by Brian Johnson: Hope somebody strong gets on it!

Awesome work boys. I was up there mucking around with johnson on Saturday. What a route! And what a funky approach! Pencil was looking pretty dry. On a related note-- what's the story on that big, grade 5-looking bastard climber's left of Drury, a little higher up the drainage?

unklehuck- the ice at the top of the NE butt is fat and ready to go.

Great job guys, looks like you had a blast. How long does this (or Andromeda Strain) stay climbable for as we move into the early summer?

THAT is some nasty stuff. Awesome job guys.

the west face on 1/16: the north face: looking down from our high point: BAIL: clouds n' stuff:

Is that peak in the 3rd photo down the one you climbed? Looks like you guys had a great time out!

Hey great job getting him out safely and quickly (I was one of the two guys coming off Liberty Crack that afternoon.) 9:30?! We barely made it out by 9! Well I guess we walk slow or you guys evacuate fast. Good luck to all of you...

Yeah, won't say I didn't notice west face of N. Howser...how's the aid on those "11+" pitches mentioned in the guidebook for All Along the Watchtower? Would I be leapfrogging bomber cam placements or playing with micro nuts for 2 hours at a time?

Hey all: I'm planning a Bugs trip this summer, and I'm looking for a grade V to aim for...something a little more commiting than the Becky-Chouinard, maybe something with more of a "wall" feel, but also as few pitches of 5.11 as possible, and definately none of that A3 crap. Anyone have any favorites that fit the bill? Tanks in advance...