el jefe

way to go, drew! and congratulations to proud parents, too!

anybody know what motivated bug to start this thread? it's not clear to me that he "threatened the existence" of this site in some way.

go up to cooper spur mountain resort on the east side of mt hood via highway 35, traveling north from hood river, oregon.

blocage violent, ceuse, france.

pm sent

i think it's great that you want to attempt an FA in a more engaging and committing style. you are obviously a talented young climber and exploring new ways of climbing is definitely a good thing. best of luck to you, marc.

i get it that people conflate "commitment" with "purity", kimmo, that's what i'm questioning here. according to the dictionary, purity = freedom from adulteration or contamination -- why not just say "commitment" and drop the more judgmental term? i'm okay with the idea that someone might want to attempt a new line in a more "engaging" style (bathooks held in place by putty, small wires behind fragile flakes), but i'm not willing to grant that the climber who chooses the more engaging style is somehow "purer" than the one who doesn't or that the one who doesn't has somehow "contaminated" his route; they are just interested in exploring a different aspect of the game, and one is no "purer" than the other.

why is bolting on lead "pure" and rap-bolting "impure"? the route has been/will be cleaned on rappel, hence previewed, so what's the big deal about bolting it on lead? if marc wants the experience of bolting on lead then i say go for it and choose the tactic (hand drilling or bosch) that you are interested in learning about, but drop the "pure" bullshit and all the judgmental crap implied by the term.

queue |kyoō| noun 1 chiefly Brit. a line or sequence of people or vehicles awaiting their turn to be attended to or to proceed. 2 Computing a list of data items, commands, etc., stored so as to be retrievable in a definite order, usually the order of insertion. 3 (archaic) a braid of hair worn at the back. cue 1 |kyoō| noun a thing said or done that serves as a signal to an actor or other performer to enter or to begin their speech or performance.

how's life up on that soapbox, che?

her we go again...

g-spotter the anti-raindawg? kind of like bizarro superman is to superman? interesting concept...

not necessarily dumb but certainly uninformed. no one has yet mentioned the name of this crag where the previously undiscovered "gem" has been found so no one is in a position to know the crag's history except those such as yourself who are already in possession of said information. therefore, for you to call billcoe a "dumbass" merely demonstrates that you are the real dumbass here. in other words, point being, for those too dumb to otherwise see it, why don't you surprise the rest of us by taking a stab at civil discourse for a change?

come on, kimmo, g-splutter is, as always, trying to keep us focused on the important details here. after all, there is an enormous difference re: bill's point if climbers have been active there for 40 years or only 38. it would change everything, don't you see?

solo it in your underwear sans chalk and barefoot, then it would be the "purest line possible". maybe add a blindfold to increase the sense of adventure?

i had a feeling that might be what kevino meant. looks like i'll be waiting til next year to see the fabled ice of strobach mt.

the comment about strobach is rather cryptic -- what's up?

vodka isn't as filling as beer so would be a good alternative that would leave more room for rice cakes.

having received the blessing of the almighty JosephH, Preiss can now feel he has achieved the "infinite bliss" of true fulfillment.

i was actually kidding about the haston diet -- and strongly suspect he was as well. i'm interested in your strategy for shedding the adipose. i've lost some by eating more greens and putting in some time running.

13.6% = 20 lbs? actually, there's some minimum amount of body fat that you can't go below (i forget the exact figure -- 3%? 5%?), so 20 lbs might be more than you can realistically lose. it's hard to drop more than a pound or two a week and keep it off. really rapid weight loss is loss of water, which is dehydration rather than actually getting leaner. are you planning to try stevie haston's 800kcal/day diet?

word is the guidebook won't be coming out because the landowner was opposed to having it published. i might still have a copy of the old guide farrgo mentioned but i'd have to dig around some. that said, the old guide doesn't have that much info in it as the majority of the development occurred after that guide was published. many of the carver boulder problems disappear into the moss pretty quickly if they don't get consistent traffic.

try "knees to elbows". better than pull ups.

thanks, bill.

if other people think you are too old to climb with them, then that's their mistake, you don't need to make it for them. keep getting out and having fun.