Wakaranai

Being my weak state of fitness I think we will aim for Heavens Gate, but if for some reason we get a sudden burst of new found energy I will bring a wrench. Is it a 3/8 or 1/2"? cause it would be nice to have a box wrench to really cinch her down. That thing needs a little Lock Tight or somthing, it was loose two years ago too. Speaking of bad bolts how about the 11c var. of Centerfold. Every bolt was on its last thread last year.

Have tried Page, Rubber Room, and others but I think Ramuta is still the best. Ship them to Helena its worth it.

I think the tree to get to the undercling traverse pitch of the Grand Wall is usually utilized isnt it? I know I did. You have to use the "culturally modified cedars" on climbs like Gonch Pull. Just because they took the time to sculpt it so. I thought that a heavy set friend of mine might break, the "Woody" if you will, as he yarded away. It remained erect afterwords but made us think about how much more abuse the "stiffy" could endure.

Damn Sol, thats a hell of a day. You would have had your 15 if not for the distance between the crags, but thats part of the fun too I imagine. -Brandon

Your probably right. Probably off route too, but I think Ill stay with the "A" climbs from the Alpine Select book anyways. Too many clean classic lines to do than to waste time with rubble. Springbok Arete looks cool.

I cant speak for the N. face but the south face of this peak is a vertical scree field. Book claims it to be a good early-season rockclimb. We found one enjoyable pitch, the crux pitch, which was the only pitch that had solid rock and gear. The rest of the time we spent pulling off holds, placing gear behind exfoliating flakes and cussing and spitting at the amount of choss on this shit pile. The approach was pretty heinous too, including a vertical tree/bushwack and a wonderfully loose talus/boulderfield with beachball size marbles that you just cant avoid. I must admit that this was my first peak in the Northwest and at the time was accustomed to the casual alpine rock of the Sierras but I think even now after living here for 10 years that this S. face of the Viennese would take the cake for the biggest piece of crap that Ive done.....I hear the n. face is pretty good though

Aaron- A couple of climbing buddies are headed down your way this weekend and they would be stoked to take the Smith tour if your looking for belay partners. Let me know and I'll pass them your digits. They are good peeps. -Brandon

Thats great, I really hope you make it work. B-ham needs a good gym and it seems there would be enough climbers around to support it. The YMCA sucks, the U has good bouldering but the climbing routes are lame. I hope if you do get it going that your design resembles that of the Cliffhanger gym in Canada and not these pannel style systems you see at the previous two mentioned gyms. Id buy a pass. -Brandon

Im game for 1 or 2 days per week, check you PM's

Im sorry to hear about your loss, I had a bad weekend too, luckily no credit card fraud or break-ins with the keys they stole from me....yet. I promise to shit beat any meth head I come across ripping off a fellow climber. Hope you might do the same. I think Im done buying used gear on ebay/craigslist, which I have in the past. Maybe thats my karma. Heres to better weekends. -Brandon

Trust no one. Today- went to do some craggin and cleaning at Cumberland, a place where Im always a little weary about leaving stuff in the car, so brought the personal things with me to the bottom of the rock and stashed it in the top of my pack. Ive always done this with my wallet, keys and such and never had a problem untill today when my car key, motorcycle key, house keys, along with about three or four cams, my credit cards, bank cards and drivers licence were taken. First anger set in and I wanted to strangle the first hillbilly I came across. Luckily the armed fellas who were shooting some skeet nearby were very kind and drove us all the way down to our car, thank you, saved us I dont know how many miles of walking. Anger settled down. Now the fear sets in. Gotta change the locks to the house for sure, the car? moto? DAMN! Anyways my dumb ass had to learn the hard way, dont bring all the plastic and keys at all, or just carry it with you up the climb even if your only three pitches up. This area may be more prone to theft than most crags but even places like Squamish and Index have seen their fair share of it. Trust no one. I hope that hillbilly OD's on his meth tonight.

Northwest Face of SEWS WA Pass? Millenium Falcon at Squamish? Craggin around at Index or Cumberland? Or if you have any ideas... If it involves Sun, rock, and somthing not too chossy or difficult Im game. I could leave Sunday night but I have climbing plans for sunDAY already. -Brandon 360-421-3880

Trip: WA Pass - WestFacevarofSEWS Date: 9/15/2008 Trip Report: Our original plans to head to Squamish for the weekend were abruptly changed so that we could try out some local climbing near Sedro Wooley and WA Pass. I thank you Martin for the last minute run around. The first day went really nice and we had a mellow time craggin on some single pitch stuff at Cumberland Gap in the warm sun. I was very happy to get a FA redpoint of Cahullawassee a great new sport route there. We only heard a few shotguns and never once did a hillbilly ask us what a couple of city slickers were doing climbin on dem dar rocks. Though next time I crag at Cumberland will probably wear my orange hunting gear not the camo. We then drove out to Wa pass and dirtbagged it at the hairpin where we were surprised to see no other cars. Must be some better road side camping we dont know about. Martin and I were looking for a mellow multipitch climb with the easiest approach possible. West Face of SEWS fit the bill and we got an early start. Reading past trip reports I was a bit nervous about the 5.8 off width pitch being they said that a #5 and two #4 camalots were good to have, which I didnt. Once we were at the bottom of the route the offwidth pitch looked pretty mellow and settled my nerves a bit. 1st pitch we took the easier ramp (left one)from the obvious spruce tree up blocky chossy stuff then back right to a big ledge under the Offwidth. 2nd pitch Climb up to and through this nice crack. I didnt think one #4 camalot was necessary for this pitch or any others that we did on the climb for that matter. I think a #2 down low then a #3 or two was plenty. Nice pitch. 3rd pitch I wish we had linked with pitch 2. Short double cracks to another huge ledge under the Boving roof. 4th pitch The Boving Roof (I wanted nothing to do with that 5.10 chimney) but this roof traverse is a great alt. Cruxy at the end of roof #1, roof #2 is much easier. Great gear to #3 camalot all the way. A couple of loose blocks near the start of roof #1 Id like to trundle on a less busy day. 5th pitch A spread eagle move gets you back inline with the Rib route. 6th-7th Fun, easy and clean face climbng to the top Martin did awsome and we made good time despite me lagging on the roof a bit. Back on time for dinner. A nice way to spend a perfect indian summer day. Gear Notes: Up to #3camalot a #4and #5 if you really really want to sew it up Approach Notes: The easiest approach out there for an "alpine light" climb Here are some pics Martin took in random order.

Sorry, cell#is 360-421-3880 Im getting off the computer now so phone is better. -Brandon

Wanna get out craggin anybody? Im in Mount Vernon, I can drive or throw in for gas whichever works best. Im a good, safe belay and just ask that you do the same for me. Ive got a rope and rack let me know which one or both to bring. -Brandon

Thanks for the TR daddy! It was a very enjoyable climb indeed. Please thank the family for me. Its always a little sweeter seeing the kids after a trip isnt it. Have a good time in Pesatin, and thanks again for the great pics. Looking forward to future adventures. -Brandon

Alex- Im looking for a partner for Sunday, cragging or "alpine light" at WA pass. Id be happy to show you anything I know. Crevise rescue/self rescue would not be my strong points but if you want some critique of your gear placements or building anchors then I consider myself solid with that. At least my gear had always held the fall 50% of the time -Brandon

Looks nice, I live in Mount Vernon. Have rack/rope, wheels. -Brandon

"It ain't purdy fella's." -B

I think I remember it being nice having the second rope for the rap, its a little foggy in my mind but I remember this route goes super fast and a little weight from the second rope isnt a big deal. You will want to simo climb the majority of this route and do the complete, its worth it. Id just camp at the lake on the Cathedral side of the short pass and hike over in the morning. Its pretty close. You can link a couple others in the area too like Unicorn Peak. Man I miss the Sierra's especially that area, sooooo beautiful. -Brandon

HA HA, now thats using your head Blake. Sure did work well though. One of the coolest(craziest)rests was Dan Osmond at cave rock, upside down, knee bar, no handed, free solo. The top pitch of right wing has a unique rest. After the offwidth undercling thingy you throw a leg over, pull on top and then milk the full on horsey straddle rest before finishing the rest of the offwidth. -Brandon

Roan Wall looks cool. Id be up for Squamish or WA pass or wherever. Im only good for one of these two days though. I can drive or will throw in for gas. -Brandon

Yep Im a boo boo head. Left my rope at Rosario last weekend on Sunday I think...? If you picked it up and want a Karma boost please send me a PM. If you picked it up and would rather climb on it then please be aware that I chopped about 12m off so its a little shorter than 50m now. Thanks -Brandon

Anyone want to try to get a few laps at Erie tomorrow? Ive got to stay kind of close to home so Erie fits the bill, that is if the weather is nice. -Brandon

Oh yeah- if you havent climbed it yet, Rightwing was cleaned up last year and has a monster 3rd pitch about 210ft long and pretty sustained climbing. I took about 28 cams and had only one remaining at the top of the pitch. I hope they didnt bolt a midway anchor. This one cant be considered a giveaway. -B