Wakaranai

My partner came down with a cold. Was hoping to hit Rattlesnake rock or somthing for the day. Im posting this pretty late but if youre interested send me a pm. -Brandon

Climb some granite Saturday? Squamish or Index or other, it doesnt matter its all good. -B

Will do Tony. -B

My partner injured his finger, anyone want to do some laps at Erie or Index today? I live in Mount Vernon so Erie is prefered to avoid holiday traffic, but I would make the drive to Index if we could get a full day in. -B

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Looking to hit Squamish for the day on Sat or Sun. So far weather looks best on Sunday. Im driving from Mount Vernon and have gear, rope, etc. Whatever looks good and is dry, prefer crack climbing but I like clippin a bolt or two too. -Brandon

That funny Blake, you beat me by like 9 seconds. I got your email and left a couple of messages for a potential partner, so we'll see what happens. -B

Potential partner had things to do. Im looking for someone to do some cragging with tomorrow the 24th at Squamish. Thinking something like Murrin or Smoke Bluffs since it may be a little damp in other places. Ive got all the gear and could drive. I lead up to mid 11's trad/sport but still get a whoopin from a 5.9 once in a while. -B

Worked late, partner got sick. I would still like to at least get a few laps in at Erie or Index today if anyone is intrested. Otherwise I guess its Larabee again. cell-360-421-3880 Brandon

Karnage is a great problem, as well as frogs in space, a couple more mid 11's to lead would be a cool thing at Erie. Hydrophobia and other climbs along the snag buttress are fun but need some bolts replaced. Thanks for beta Otto. -B

Sorry- I thought retro bolting referred to replacing old bolts. I wouldnt ever change the FA's line. I would like some advise on where to place new bolts (ex. how close to the old bolt should a new one be). For both safety and to maintain the integrity of the FA. If anyone is ever around the Lookout Wall take a lap and tell me what you think. -B

Id help you rebolt them if you want to, it would be nice to have projects to do at Erie and as the bolts are now the climbs are seeing almost zero traffic. My buddy talked to the FA of the 11d at the lookout wall and he seemed to be fine with retrobolting that route as long as we didnt add more bolts to it. Its a great problem but not leadable with current rusty bolts, unless u cwazy. Im not sure if the same dude put up when the cats r away... -B

Small world, I wonder if you know my old roommate/buddy Matt Ciancio? He climbed with Taka quite a bit. Both were really cool dudes. I lived in Mammoth from 93-02 and I get stoked thinking about the good old days. By the way, might you be the Ben that I met at Smith Rock a while back. I was with Aaron and you threw a rope up on some cool climb at the Picnic Lunch wall in the rain. Cheers- Brandon

Actually Erie sounds good, that drive to L-worth is long for one day, plus I just did that last weekend. -B

Is this the same Taka that lived in or near Mammtoh Lakes?

I wish I could, next weekend Ive got four days off fri-mon, but just have the day off this weekend. -B

I know its in a different league quality wise, but thank you to those who sport bolted climbs like No Name Road, and Burning Down The Couch. If the extra bolts were not there, wimps like me could never climb these wonderful routes in the same style that the FA's did. Its also good to know that many Tuolumne Meadow classics will never change and I will always be a 5.9 climber (at best) when I visit there. As for Leavenworth, I think its pretty cool how mixed up the Ethics are all in one climbing area. Plenty of scary stuff, and plenty of safe stuff. Cool.

Thinking probably Leavenworth since the forecast is a little weird, Im up for somthing closer if weather permits though. I live in Mount Vernon. -Brandon

Looking a little wet on this side of the mountains again this weekend. L-worth has been the saving grace to my sanity for sure.

P.S. Index or Squamish next time Blake. (weather permitting)

I do like a lot of these guys routes, but a bolt next to a perfect cam placement is lame. Routes like Condorphamine Addiction and Gun Rack are pretty cool but the spice is rubbed out because of over bolting. Now to be perfectly hypercritical, I like the bolt at the crux of Perils. This is because a dude like me who climbs easy 11's can try a little harder 11's safely. So maybe a route like Condorphamine is geared toward a 5.9 climber who wants to break into the easy 10's I dont know. I guess I feel that when a crag is less than stellar I care less about this issue, but when old routes are retro bolted without permission or a splitter crack is bolted that is no bueno.

Borderline/Blazing Saddles is a must do. -B

Damn! I thought it would at least go to the 2nd round. Rampage is one tuff S.O.B. I guess all the old pride fighters will now become the new ufc champs. Who can challange Rampage at 205 now?? Brandon Vera if he cut weight? Rashad Evans? or Randy C?

Sirwoofalot- jaa mata kondo -Brandon

Cool let me know. Blake, Im hanging with da wifey sat. and sun. but a couple of us are hitting Squamish on mon. some single pitch cracks and such, your welcome to join us and make four if you dont already have plans. -B