Wakaranai

I think I remember it being nice having the second rope for the rap, its a little foggy in my mind but I remember this route goes super fast and a little weight from the second rope isnt a big deal. You will want to simo climb the majority of this route and do the complete, its worth it. Id just camp at the lake on the Cathedral side of the short pass and hike over in the morning. Its pretty close. You can link a couple others in the area too like Unicorn Peak. Man I miss the Sierra's especially that area, sooooo beautiful. -Brandon

HA HA, now thats using your head Blake. Sure did work well though. One of the coolest(craziest)rests was Dan Osmond at cave rock, upside down, knee bar, no handed, free solo. The top pitch of right wing has a unique rest. After the offwidth undercling thingy you throw a leg over, pull on top and then milk the full on horsey straddle rest before finishing the rest of the offwidth. -Brandon

Roan Wall looks cool. Id be up for Squamish or WA pass or wherever. Im only good for one of these two days though. I can drive or will throw in for gas. -Brandon

Yep Im a boo boo head. Left my rope at Rosario last weekend on Sunday I think...? If you picked it up and want a Karma boost please send me a PM. If you picked it up and would rather climb on it then please be aware that I chopped about 12m off so its a little shorter than 50m now. Thanks -Brandon

Anyone want to try to get a few laps at Erie tomorrow? Ive got to stay kind of close to home so Erie fits the bill, that is if the weather is nice. -Brandon

Oh yeah- if you havent climbed it yet, Rightwing was cleaned up last year and has a monster 3rd pitch about 210ft long and pretty sustained climbing. I took about 28 cams and had only one remaining at the top of the pitch. I hope they didnt bolt a midway anchor. This one cant be considered a giveaway. -B

I havent climbed a whole lot in the valley so the comparison is difficult to make for me, but having climbed in Tuolumne and Index, ratings seem pretty close to me as far as moderates go. Examples West Crack 5.9 pretty soft, Thin Fingers 11a pretty soft (much easier than Perspective in my eyes), I found Mushroom harder to lead than Godzilla, Rock and Rattle 11c easier than Horrors of Ivan 11b?? Everyone is different, I suppose hand and finger size are a major factor climb to climb. Its interesting to hear that someone found Seasoned in the Sun easy and the Zip hard for 10a. I have a difficult time with those off fingers and hand routes I guess. Split Beaver Seasoned In The Sun 10a Perspective 11a Horrors of Ivan 11c [/b] All easy for the grade. All great climbs. couldn't agree more...perspective would be mid 5.10 in Yos, seasoned would be 5.9, horrors woudl be 10+/11-...split would be 5.9

I continuously hear people say that Squamish climbs are soft in the grade, but the more Ive gone up there the less Ive found this to be true. I know that there are a handfull of giveaways at the bluffs (ex. The Zip) but it seems almost every climbing area Ive ever been to has these. I know I know, grades really do not matter anyhow. I would just like to hear examples of Squamish climbs people feel are on the soft side. I can name a few stout ones off the top of my head. Mushroom 5.9 Rightwing 10c Avalon 10b Seasoned In The Sun 10a Perspective 11a Silver Surfer 11b Horrors of Ivan 11c

I only wish that they would post a note at the trailhead so we dont hike all the way to the base only to find that millenium falcon is roped off and littered with trees and dirt. Not like its a long hike but long enough of a walk that its a bit annoying. It might be nice to have an easy route to the top of the Cheif but jeeze air compressors and come alongs??? Just put a little effort in and do the Buttress which is like 5.9 anyways. I hope after all that work it turns out to be a good one for them. Does anyone know how the progress is going? Are we there yet?

Im meeting a group tomorrow as a fifth wheel if anyone wants to join and even the numbers up for some fun in the sun. Probably the upper wall area. Im driving from Mount Vernon around 10ish. -Brandon

Index, Erie or somewhere else? Looks sunny now but it wont last so lets get out there. I live in Mount Vernon. -Brandon

Yeah, need to get out in this nice crisp fall weather. Where were you thinking? Im good for Monday I have to work Tuesday though. -Brandon

I spent about 10 years in Mammoth and as far as weather and quality of climbing it is meca. Ive gone snowboarding in the early morning at Mammoth, then drive 12 minutes to Crowley to do some Wake Boarding (a little chilly in early July, but fun), then drive 15 more minutes to world class bouldering at the Buttermilks. Ahh another nice day in the Sierra. But..Mammoth has gone from a quaint little mountain town to overpriced wanna-be Aspen foo foo richy rich kinda place so... WA state is sure pretty sweet and living in Mount Vernon is a nice central spot to alot of great climbing at Index, Squamish, and Erie..not bad. -B

Thanks, Do you know where I might purchase this substance in WA? -Brandon

Z-man- You left a water bottle in my car, let me know if you r passing through and I can leave it out or get it back to you next climb. Wish I could join you Thursday but Ill be at the F@#$% shop. -Brandon

Porter- You wont remember me but at the rope up I won some chalk like stuff in the raffle. Upon first inspection it appeared that a dirty hippie had cut off a tube sock and put his grandmas dead ashes in it and called it chalk. I have to admit that I was a little hesitant to take a dip at first, but when I finally did I found that it worked really well and it didnt mark the rock up either. Anyhow, I discarded the wrapper and didnt know the name of the stuff or where to get it. Perhaps the hippie who makes it has some more relatives,umm, stuff they want to sell. Thanks, Brandon

Anyone up for a trip to the Tieton? Weather looks good so far (knock, knock, knock). I can drive, I live in Mount Vernon. -Brandon

It was cool to finally put faces to some of the names I see on this site. Your all much better looking than I had pictured. Thank you Blake, Allison, Lisa, and Rad for the fun climbing, and for the patience (Blake) while I flailed about on Midnight Rock. Good Times, be back next year. -Brandon

Im down to try Index too if its dry tomorrow. I have some stuff to do in the morning but then Im free, probably around 11:00. Lets hit the real rock before its just tossin on plastic time. -Brandon

Anybody want to go down to Tieton River Canyon and do some climbing sat-sun?? Leave early tomorrow or late tonight. Sunday looks like a mixed bag but we could bring some mountainbikes for a backup plan. Ive never been there but I hear the rock is pretty sweet and the drive is about the same as Vantage. I can drive and have rope/rack etc. -Brandon

Great pics, Id love to see more. If its even better than clean crack then Im really stoked to try it. Was hoping this weekend but the weather....!@%$#$. Oh well I suppose its not going anywhere. The Sting looks like a pretty cool approach pitch, and easier than the others mentioned. Ill need to save all the juice I can to get up ROTC. Thanks for the Beta! -B

Thanks all, sounds great. -B

I was wondering how ROTC compares to climbs like Clean Crack or Crime of the Century as far as difficulty goes. I have heard some people say that ROTC is light for an 11c but others have said different. Does it pro nice all the way? Someone mentioned a wide flare high up? Gear to 3 inches? Any suggestions would be appreciated. -Brandon

Yes the pillar is sustained, but not as much as the Fillibuster pitch of right wing, and not but a little more than half as long too. -B

Check out Right Wing in Squamish. It has some great chimney/squeeze sections and the "whats left" pitch is a-typical wide crack climbing. Great exposure, and pitch 2 is the most sustained 10b/c in squamish. Bring the whole rack! -B