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Everything posted by Wakaranai
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All good ones
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Paulito in Mammoth always had some good ones. "Black Chicks in Heat" "Double Ender" Also good ones- "Show us Your Tits" "Slippter Crack" "Chalk the Monkey" but I still think "Cunning Stunt" takes the cake. My buddy still pauses before he says it.
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Trying to stay a little obscure and single pitch here- "Pretty Mouth" Cumberland Crags WA "Cahullawassee" Cumberland Crags WA "Singing Wire" Rocky Reach WA "Wages of Skin" Rockcreek CA "Jihad" Clarks Canyon CA "Timeless" Owens CA "Just Blessed" Squamish BC "Turbocharger" Squamish BC "Rightwing (Fillabuster pitch)" Squamish BC
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Just watched the video. Yes the BUS, I thought it was the Canuck method, works the best in my opinion, climber is always on lock down.
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Some slack in the line (dynamic belay) can soften the catch and is actually safer than having "no slack", in some cases. Steeper climbs or roofs usually. True that I'd prefer a tight belay from a newbie than extra slack though. Keep them off the ledge! I like belaying like the Canucks, overhand brake, reach beneath brake hand with other hand, allows to slide brake hand, brake hand never leaves the rope. Its amazing how poorly some really good climbers belay.
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If L-worth is rainy... check out Rocky Reach in Wenatchee. Across the street from the Dam. Looks scrappy and actually it is scrappy but some fun routes. Bring a rack.
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[TR] Darrington - 3 O'Clock Rock - Silent Running 1/28/2010
Wakaranai replied to benmurphy's topic in North Cascades
Spring Is Here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????????? -
Ive had this backpack for a few years and I love everything about it except its made for a long torso. Im 5'10" so you would want to be 6'+ for a good fit. The pack is in used but in great condition no tears, rips, all straps and buckles function perfectly. The newer lassen series are about 4500 cu in. so Im just guessing this is pretty close to that. I would trade for a pack of similar value 3400 cu in. or more as long as it was for a shorter torso. Id also take $135 for it. It retails for $275+ at Moosejaw. Thanks for looking 360-421-3880
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Trip: Mt. Erie - Zig Zag moonlight Date: 1/28/2010 Trip Report: So whats a rock climber to do? -when its dark out after work and you just cant get yourself motivated for pulling plastic tonight. Well, good ol Zig Zag at Erie of course :)Seemed like a fine idea and since it was almost a full moon we wouldnt even need headlamps... Just kidding, we did. Dallas, Matt and I had a great time and we were both pleased and a bit concerned by how nice and warm it was lastnight. Hope it snows a little before the olympics but also excited for the rock to come into condition. Anyhow, heres a few pics of our after work adventure. Good idea Dallas, I had a blast. Gear Notes: Small rack to 2", 7 runners, headlamp. Approach Notes: park at the bottom and hike up, avoid ticks.
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Great times Darrington- Roan Wall WA pass- Passenger Enchantments- Acid Baby Nesakwatch- Dairyland many great days scrubbing the black death off at Cumberland Pass and put up about 8 new pitches. watched my 1 yr old become a 2 year old. Time truly does fly by too fast. Make the most of it all yall! Regrets- only that I didnt get up to Squamish enough but such is life.
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Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW
Wakaranai replied to dberdinka's topic in Climber's Board
Thats a great pic of the whole link up. I wanna do that next year, though from Martha's Place, not car to car like you animals. -
Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW
Wakaranai replied to dberdinka's topic in Climber's Board
Sorry- you said PNW. WF CBR,or Passenger WA pass -
Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW
Wakaranai replied to dberdinka's topic in Climber's Board
Mithral Dihedral- Not a very long route overall but man that corner is one of my favorites for sure. The elevation adds to the appeal not to mention views of the highest lake in the states (Im told). Bring a 100m rope to do the corner in one pitch (not me in pic, borrowed from supertopo) -
When I first read this I thought- screw em, betta get a jobby job kiddies. Then, after reflecting about the time when my first rack of gear was so generously given to me, I came to realize that this is a real nice gesture. I have many great memories putting in that skanky gear, chalks on cord, bent up nuts and beat up forged friends. I would be happy to donate my old gear to any interested youngster, though it seems anyone I know that is in that age category sports a sparkely new rack of camalots with tiny light weight biners. All the same if any one did want a old bod harness, small shoes (high tops), some spare stoppers, old rope (top rope only), and some random tat then let me know where to bring them. Happy Holidays, -B
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Would like to get to L-worth or Rocky Reach for whatever cragging that can be had- or if its really soaked hit the Everett VW. Im in Mount Vernon. SUnday or MOnday
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Did this route on aug 17th. I trundled the death flake that you had to step over, on pitch 3 I think. Some loose stuff for sure but I think with traffic its going to be nice. I liked the left (finger crack var.)pitch 4 I think. Starting the climb off with a 65m pitch is pretty bad ass fellas. We split em in 2. 3 star finish!
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Great to see that big daddy brandon is still getting out. Thanks Sol, I have been very much inspired by your trip reports. Keep us updated! Thanks again for the great climb fellas. I'll do it again anytime you want Rad. I need some revenge on the 2nd pitch, and you can lead the slab
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Climbed at Cumberland yesterday, with an early start it was comfortable heat wise. Wouldnt mind another day there or WA pass tomorrow. Im in Mount Vermin
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Heading to the crag early to beat the heat. Sedro Woolley area. Any takers? -Brandon
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As of 7-21 it still had some glacier left right above the ramp. Its been really hot since then though. If it hasnt slid yet Id be scared with this heat.
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Trip: S. Nesakwatch Spire - Dairyland Date: 7/21/2009 Trip Report: I just love the casual feeling and ambiance of this area. A friend and I visited about 6 years ago and did the southwest ridge of the north spire and remembered drooling over the west face of the south spire on the way down. After thumbing through my buddies new Becky guide I was pleased to see a little beta on the exsisting routes there. A call to my friend Stiven and we were off. Full lazy syle as per usual. Hike in, camp on one of the huge flat boulders, wake up late and do some sweet back country cragging. We chose to try "Dairyland" 11a and we were not dissappointed. Stiven and I both agreed that it was nice that the Becky guides route description was somewhat vague. "5.9 dihedral to start, clean splitter to finish and a crux pitch somewhere in between, enough said. To maintain the excitement I wont give away any details but just want to say its worthy, go do it, and enjoy the splitter at the top, its sweet! Crux pitch is super fun too. There seems to be a couple variations, we took a right hand variant. Some loose blocks keep it feeling alpine but overall nice, sound rock. We wanted to link Rexford for some bonus pitches and had plenty of time but decided to be good employees and get to work on time in the morning. I know I know...wimps. Wish we had pictures, sorry. Fairytales and Fantasies looks amazing too. Cant wait to get back out there. -Sven Gear Notes: Standard rack, doubles from 0.5 camalot to #2 camalot, 1#3and #4. We both really, really liked having 2 #00 metolius mastercams and hexs for belays. Approach Notes: My little tracker made it no problem, hike is short, steep and straight to the point.
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Chris- I got your number but a buddy threw out the scrap paper not knowing. Im heading out to Coal Mnt. tomorrow (wed) if your available. Or anyone else that may want to climb out there and possibly put up a new route. Im in Mount Vernon, 360-336-5924